pappy52

Thanks, Jon

Quick question, I blew a wheel cylinder on the way to work this morning. The posts I have seen say to put the washer, that is between the nut and the cone washer, so the side marked "out" goes agains the nut. My washers do not say anything, but do have a large white mark on one side. Is this the same as "out"? This is the way they came out, but just double checking. Car has 146k, bought new, and never had rear brakes done. Jon

Looks like part of an old seal to me. Or a seal that was installed backward, and someone tried to get it out and broke it? I looked very hard, but could not see a case split in the recess. Shouldn't a joint line be above and below crank nose? Jon

I went ahead and spliced the wires together and it seems to have corrected the "feeling". I guess first is first in both circumstances, and still under the manual switch influence, with the exception of "holding" when in "1" Jon

Thanks! Jon

Just need a when and where. I have a 1 man cabinet shop, so am mostly flexible, unless waiting for a wood truck or sumpin'. Jon

Hey, I FOUND those in the trunk. Arn't they part of the car? They do fit nicely in the bumper though. I did have the grille zipped on also, but had to work on the hood latch, so took it off. Jon

Finally got tabs on the car. Drives and runs great. Question on the manual switch (Origonal post), I think I understand the 1st gear thing when you have it in "1", but does it also affect 1st gear when in "D"? It feels like it is binding (chattering, grabbing, or whaterever) when starting forward in a turn since I am going from a stop. The tires are all the same make, size, wear, etc. The FWD fuse works as it should. I also have a 96 OBW manual, but don't feel the binding (or such) in same circumstances. Did I make any sense with that discription? Thanks, Jon

DONE! I don't have a PayPal or such, but I can meet you sometime and do cash. If I gave you an extra $10.00, could you donate it to USMB under my name? Jon Do you need me to do the removal or anything? Be glad to!

I think I will take you up on the bumper. Is that the bumper cover or the heavy stuff behind? I need both. Also looking for the pass. side corner light at front of fender. Whoever had it before got a new hood, fender, radiator, A/C condenser, grill, and a couple of other things. I think he got the body stuff on, then started the car, ran crappy, (timing belt), and then said phooey. It's a '93, will yours fit? Jon

Came with 1/2 tank.

Forgot to mention, I recouped 30% of my cost----found $20.00 bill under spare tire. Jon

OK, maybe not $1.84, ($35.00 Title Fees, $23.00 Excise Tax, $.16 Sales Tax on $1.84), but I really ame pleased. It is 1993 automatic LS AWD 1.8 with 144,000 Miles. Interior needs to be cleaned, but not ripped up or trashed. Never saw it in the daylight until I picked it up, so figured it was a beater and thought I might be able to use the engine and seats. Surprise! Needs some stuff on the frount, (Looking), but everything works great and after reseting the jumped timing belt it purrs like a kitten(Sewing machine?) and can barely be heard. Am giving it to my niece and nephew so they can buy fixer parts, and I will install. http://jon.belandtechnology.com/subaru/impreza/ Cheers, Jon

Andyjo sent me a pic of the kick panel one. My post is the "93 impreza auto-cut manul wires" It is there Jon

Thanks again. Hopefully you found enough change under ther to make it worthwhile. Jon Looks like you put it back on too!

What a guy! Above and beyond!

Thanks! On another note, since you so kindly sent the other fellow a picture of the fuse box under the hood, could you get a pic of the cover from the fuse box inside on the drivers kick panel? Jon

So, is it ok to leave it cut, or should I splice them together. As I said, I don't want to mess the tranny up. Jon

Thanks! Dipstick didn't say, but you are correct, III replaces II Jon

Quicky- need quart of ATF for '93 Impreza Is it Dextron II or III? Thanks, Jon

Thanks. From reading other posts I thought it had something to do with mapping the TCU in certain situations. My everyday use would not require the features of the switch, and I don't want to mess anything up. I think they were saying that the switch is normally closed, and when used it unpowers Duty C and changes stuff. Got this car (144K) for $60.00 (fees and taxes) and recouped 30% of cost by finding $20.00 under spare tire. The timing was noodled and I redid the belt and it works great. Need front bumper cover and a few items for front, and ready for the road! Jon

The Impreza I just picked up has the wires cut, for the manual switch, at the base of the shift grip. should I jump the wires together to bypass the switch, or leave them as is? The wires are cut right at the base for the molded shifter grip, so no wire sticking out to splice to. Thanks, Jon

Thought that would get some attention. Sales tax was on the sale price of $1.84.

I will check it out tomorrow! Should I unplug and then run til dies? Thanks Jon

Just picked up a '93 Impreza LS AWD, Auto. EJ18, 145,000, real clean. Title fees- $23.00 Excise tax- $35.00 Sales tax- $.016 Negotiated Price- $1.84 Total- $60.00 Might need head gasket, was whumped in the front end and previous owner put on new hood, fender, and radiator. Have new grille and fan shroud/support in trunk. I think when it got hit, it smushed stuff back and the A/C adjust bracket pushed into the timing covers and caused the belts/pulleys to rub them. I checked the timing and it was off a few teeth on each side. ( runs-yech) I reset the timing belts, but when I released the tensionier, it caused the drivers side to be a tooth off from the mark. I am an EA82 guy, so is there a trick to get it correct, or just take off and redo until right? Thanks, Jon