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Hello Subaroonies, I recently paid a visit to the local Subaru dealership to take advantage of their $19.95 oil change special and...wouldn't you know it...it wound up costing me over $200. One of the brake calipers was missing a bolt and since I couldn't just drive it off the lot (my dog growled like...real loud) I kinda had to let them 'do it'. Anyway...they replaced the caliper with a new one, bled the brake line and now there is substantial extra play in the pedal. I was wondering if this was normal after replacing just one caliper? --Damien

on my kitchen table? ha ha ha Having neither the time nor the patience I drove it up to my mechanic today... Cheers, Damien

so there's both a nut and bolt involved? I think I'll just have my mechanic do it....the only things I can do with confidence are fluid changes and replacing the fuel and air filter..... If I had my own shop, lift, tools and equipment it would be like 'going to heaven'... :-) Cheers, Damien

well...when I try to turn the engine over it just clicks...usually I have to make 3-4 attempts until the starter finally kicks in and starts the engine. Oftentimes whacking the starter with a wrench will improve its functioning (supposedly it helps the loosen the carbon buildup which I read may be the cause of its poor functioning) Sometimes when the weather is wet enough I can't start it at all and have to wait until it gets drier.... So I can remove the starter from the top without much difficulty? --Damien

Hi everyone, I have a 1996 Legacy Outback with a 2.2L engine. The starter is starting to fail (likely due to carbon scoring on the contacts) and I was wondering how difficult it is to remove the starter...I'm going to take it into a shop and have it rebuilt. From the pictures I've seen on the web it looks fairly simple...two bolts mounting it onto the engine and then the electrical cables...is there anything else I should be wary of? Thanks... --Damien

Hello, I recently brought my 96 Legacy Wagon into a GMC shop to have snow tires put on. The tech there told me that the rear struts were 'leaking fluid' and that I would need to have them replaced. Does he mean I would need a strut or a shock absorber or what? He showed me the torn boots but I'm a little confused. They would not do a wheel alignment citing the 'weak struts'. They estimated $670.29 for two rear struts replaced. Thanks for help/info, Damien

I had a similar problem with mine... In my case I had to wait for the 'ABS' light to go off before making my dashing getaway... :-) In my Sube it usually takes 4 or 5 seconds for it to go off after starting the engine. Hope that bit helps, Damien

is it possible to have a partially functioning/ intermittently working caliper or is it mostly works/don't? --Damien

ok...but would bleeding air out of the system increase the effectiveness...what is the main reason for bleeding air of the system? How about the front caliper? Could it be also bad (it's rebuilt straight from the box)? --Damien

how about bleeding them? (the brakes, I mean) :-D

Hi, I have a 1996 Legacy Outback. I recently got rotors and pads replaced on all four wheels. After a few hundred miles of driving I noticed that on the passenger side of the vehicle the rotors are substantially less worn (the scoring is still fairly noticable whereas on the driver side it is definitely gone). There's a new (well, rebuilt) caliper on the front and my mechanic swears that the rear one is still OK. Could the hydraulics on the driver's side be somehow less effective/ineffective or might the discrepancy be due to a weight distribution issue (it's an automatic). Thanks for your help/insight, Damien