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I guess by now you people have realized that the Sauron Legacy Outback Dragon is...well...no joke.

Like, yeah...a '420' code is...awesome!!! I get those a lot, too...I guess the software must be very sensitive to certain aspiration characteristics. In my case, a proper air filter was the ultimate solution. --Damien

Yeah, Mark of 'South End Auto' is a pretty honest guy who does good work at a nice price. If you live in the area also try Andy of 'Burke View Garage' (I think they used to call themselves 'Auto Shed'). He's a little more expensive but does excellent work. But never take it into a dealer...no matter what. Their crack team of terrorist attorneys will make you pay a fortune for a simple repair...and there's no upside to it, either. Cheers! --Damien

Master? Yeah...but only after two tours of duty... --Damien

I don't think my car would mind...it hasn't tried to kill me yet. I'm just trying to maximize longevity for a part that's doomed to an early failure anyway. --Damien "Michael, my sensors indicate that Karr is still alive...and he's heading straight towards us!"

Sure enough it's one of the green ones...damn...looks like a quality part to me. Any info on where I can find a split boot kit for the '98 outback wagon, 2.2L (standard trans)? Thanks! --Damien

That's a good point but all the mechanics around here want to get paid for their effort anyway. Capitalism doesn't really work then. Job 'X' will cost 'Y' dollars, period.

haha....that's a good one. I'm going to send that to the 'Red Green Show'. --Damien

well it's cheap and easy for you guys....you've got everything...tools, lift, time, expertise. well ok...I'll call around I guess...but I have a feeling I'll get basically the same answer...around here labor is kinda 'unionized' in a way.... Cheers, Damien

I'm guessing it's a quality Subaru axle and joint...I'd like to save it but I don't have a choice I guess. Cost rules then.... :-/ --Damien

well...my mechanic said it too much a pain to replace just a boot so I guess I'll just keep driving it until it starts clicking around curves.... --Damien

One the boots on my front-axle CV joint has given way to wear and I was wondering if this is a big deal... It's splattered grease all over the exhaust heat shield and underbelly of the engine... I guess without the boot in place the wear is going to accelerate...it is wise to drive without the boot in place? I'm wondering maybe a small rock could get caught in the gears really causing a failure... Thanks for your input and opinions, --Damien

Hi Subaru folk, I just replaced the air filter on my '98 Legacy Outback and, astonished at the noticable increase in engine performance, I was wondering if replacing the fuel filter might be in order as well.... Are fuel filters all the same or does manufacturer matter...? For those considering air filters Subaru sells a custom air filter for their vehicles but I think the one 'Wix' offers may be a better fit... I think the real cheap $4 air filters are probably a waste of money... --Damien

I say don't use it in the tank...it turns (at least certain types of oil) into some serious molasses which is probably no good for seals/gaskets anyway... Might be ok for certain types of gas/oil but it's a chemistry problem nowadays... Cheers! --Damien

Seafoam is a powerful solvent. It can melt seals if you use too much of it at a time and keep it in the crankcase for too long. I think it also can corrode gaskets as well. I only use it like every 25,000 - 30,000 miles and when I do I use about a third of a can and I only keep it 'in there' for about a hundred miles and I only let it 'sit' in there for overnight. Trust me...I'm a certified chemical engineer for like...two days out of every month! (It's a form of chemotherapy and Dragons don't like it much.) --Damien

could be just your nose, ya know. Sometimes they are real warnings, tho... Maybe it's alerting you to the steep cost of gasoline nowadays.... :-/ (chemistry can be a tough subject sometimes) --Damien

Be advised that with those alloy wheels torquing the lug nuts properly is somewhat necessary. Many shops have a special tool they use to torque each bolt just right. In doing so you will get more life out of your brakes. Just a 'friendly reminder'... :-) --Damien

hehe...I nailed another one last night...and the racoons couldn't do nuthin' about it... --Damien

yeah that's _really_ me on an AC/DC album cover...and my dog 'Grover' really does own a huge, multinational oil company. :-) --Damien

oftentimes the best solution is to...*gulp*...go for the kill. I had a serious mouse infestation in my home for many years...they got into an old Saab I used to own...they would blind me and make me sleepwalk...they would drive me nuts with scratching. Then my neighbor's dog decided to help and showed me how they were getting in my home. 45 dead mice later the problem is now totally solved! Seriously, set traps and don't be a chicken. --Damien

oh...I thought you were being facetious when you suggested that. alrighty...you're the pro. --Damien

well I guess I'll just have to keep driving it until it totally fails or gets close to it.....

well, with more weight the problem is less bad...but it does seem to slip a little bit.... :-\

The engine oil is a substantial factor in heat dissapation as well.... I recently used Mobil 1 synthetic in an EJ22 (with a little Lucas mixed in) and I got an astonishing 385 miles out of a single tank of gas (and I don't think I was cheating!) --Damien

Keep in mind that periodically checking the coolant level is very important. On dry days...after long, grueling drives it is not uncommon for a substantial amount of water to evaporate anyway from the reservoir. This is what my brother did to one Subie he owned...he blew a headgasket after just one single maniacal 800 mile drive because the coolant level dropped too low. Also it's a good idea to bleed the system from time to time anyway...you know...just for the h___ of it. :-) --Damien