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Thanks for the tip...that's probably what I'm looking for. Cheers! --Damien

On the third Sube we have (one is permanently parked in our driveway) the inner race is very snugly mounted on the transmission stub with zero freeplay. It has probably many thousands of miles on it. The race is green in color and I'm told it is indicative of the OEM ones (or so I've heard). Eventually I'll find out where the problem exactly lies and let you fellas know. --Damien

as a side note...I visited the shop today and sure enough it was one of those cheap 'Made in China' joints. The dealer said some of what they get from the suppliers are good but he said others are bad and that the label on the box is not necessarily a good indicator of ultimate quality. --Damien

I don't think they are rebuilds...just a cheap asian product. Steer clear of 'FEQ'...leastaways for CV joints. Over and out, Damien

no sorry...I mean the 'inner' part (the 'cup' component that attaches to the male end of the transmisson stub)

I'm pretty sure it's a 'FEQ' brand one... Cheap asian knockoff looks like.... Seems to have a bad reputation anyway.

I didn't do the job...but I did inspect it afterwards. They replaced both front half-axles with aftermarket joints. I hand inspected one of them...the outer race 'cup' was securely fastened to the transmission stub which made be believe that the stub was not worn at all (in spite of many thousands of miles of grinding with the loose female connector). However, after a few hundred miles of driving I re-inspected the assembly. Now the cup is slightly loose (which is exactly what I anticipated anyway). Those aftermarket joints are probably designed that way on purpose. Soft steel without enough structural integrity. 'Planned obsolescence' is what they call it. I'm betting that the Subaru OEM half-axles are what really are quality. When I visited the dealer once -- the parts guy actually showed me a drivetrain component that was made out of the 'toughest stuff'. I guess one gets what one pays for....I can't afford a $350 half-axle anyway...so I suppose I just have to make do just like everyone else.

paranoid? maybe...but I bet it's the quality of steel in those joints anyway.

Figures there'd be a poor design there...can't have it all, anyway. :-( Just a lousy pin and stubby splines to drive all that.

no, there's no leakage...but I'm worried that maybe the transmission-end splines have been worn to the point that there would be no snug enough fit for any new axle... :-( I inspected that outer race on another Subaru we have and it was pretty snugly in place and it has probably thousands of miles on it (tho there was a small amount of free-play).... On the other hand, maybe the steel in the outer-race 'cup' is too soft....

How strong are the transmission axle mounts on newer generation Subarus? Already there is significant free play on new CV joints installed that were recently installed. Granted they are probably cheap aftermarket joints...but if the transmission splines are worn wouldn't *any* new axles be doomed to an early failure? --Damien

That's probably another reason why mechanics are stubborn about it...they don't really want to discover how friendly nurses are!

Evil? That actually may be your investment portfolio affected by volatile market indicators! If you want to discover what's _really evil_ watch '2001: A Space Odyssey'

I just remember the three other cars (plus a truck) I've owned and I never remember them failing like that.... It could be a metal issue, too....poor metallurigal processes...low quality ore...etc .etc. Maybe recycled steel is lousy...maybe they mined the wrong hill. I remember rotors they used to import here from China about a decade ago used to rust very rapidly...once it got pitted it was only a few months before they were shot. --Damien

Do ceramic pads generate less heat?

Another 'stupid idea' that just might work is WD-40. I have a Sube that just sits in my driveway. It showed up one day...and now it doesn't want to leave (it loves being around other Subarus). The pad would rust right into the caliper from just sitting there for so long...I tried to move it one day...but one of the wheels simply would not unfreeze...no matter what I would do. I sprayed a copious amount on the assembly...and it popped right loose! Just $.02 that may someday be worth $200. --Damien

That looks like a great idea...I wish I could make suggestions to my mechanics like that... :-(

Could be the gasoline quality, too...they may spike that Euro fuel with a lot of ethanol. Sometimes they add water to the mix, too...because ethanol is hydrophilic and allows a smooth mixture. Oil importers probably do it anyway...just to screw consumers. Try using additives...I buy in bulk and for $1.58 per fill up it works very well. I use both 'Startron' and a Lucas product. --Damien

I agree...and I disagree with claims that you can get 5000+ miles out of an oil change.

I use only Mobil 1 with a couple of ounces of Lucas additive (the gooey, green stuff that glows in the dark). Mobil 1 is clearly different from conventional oils. For example, it expands slightly when heated.

well that must be the way labor works around here. I guess they cut corners knowing it will lead to more business. There really isn't much I can do even if I have a real case...they really are very stubborn about doing it 'their way'. If I had my way I'd take it into Midas or one of those specialists but they really are much too expensive...I think they want like $350 for a single rotor or something... It was only 60 bucks for a new caliper anyway... :-/ Cheers! --Damien

Why do brake calipers seize so frequently...? I never remember them failing like that in the past... Is it just the way they make them nowadays or what? I was wondering if buying a top-dollar one would be a good investment...

I got my car back yesterday from the dealer. He installed both half axles in the front (along with a sticking brake caliper). I inspected the installation by hand and, sure enough, the joint is fastened pretty securely to the transmission. The old one that was attached was pretty loose so it gave me some concern that maybe the transmission splines were worn but I guess they are much tougher than that. One thing I noticed was the shudder is reduced (for example when downshifting the vehicle). So that problem is due not only to a worn clutch. Over and out, Damien

Orange oil? At least it ain't make out of 'snake oil'! Maybe they are referring to that offshore rig near Ireland... Ireland was orange, too ya know! Cheers! --Damien

Well that's a relief! I did creep under the car to nose around...I didn't notice anything that was obviously out-of-joint. Thanks! --Damien