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Speaking of axles...is it common for the spindles on the transmission or wheel bearing to get worn or ruined? --Damien

Well I went out today and inspected the suspected CV joint. There is indeed some 'free play' (I think it's what you guys call it) in the inner joint. The joint housing connected to the transmission was also a little loose. I could move it around by hand... Is it normal for it to be like that? If the splines are ruined/worn on the transmission...is it going to be a biggie?

yeah I guess I'll just have to take it in...just like most everyone else. When I get the results back I'll let you all know... Cheers! --Damien

I took it for a drive today. On one stretch it started shaking badly above 60mph. On another stretch it didn't shake at all even up to 75. Once the shimmy kicks in it doesn't go away until the speed drops down until much lower. Pretty much the whole car shakes (including my tushy). I'm thinking it's probably the CV joints. They seems to be pretty long in the tooth as it is (one of the boots is split open anyway). I think they probably got warped when the engine gave out and *really* started shaking. Whaddya think? Thanks, Damien

I think it was mostly in the steering column...I'll drive it more around today to confirm that.

really? maybe you're right...but there's no code and the sound is not consistent with the symptoms I've experienced before. I plowed through a lot of posts about drivers having similar problems but I'd prefer to nail it if I can... --Damien p.s. The better information we drivers get will benefit all who are involved in this business.

I recently got repairs done on my 2.2L engine. What happened was pistons started misfiring and then the timing assembly basically failed. I was actually on my way to the shop when the engine gave out...there was a sudden loss of power and it seemed like I was running on just two cylinders. I managed to limp it the final few miles into the shop. The shop turned it around in under a day...I think he said it was the 'idler pulley'. He also replaced all 4 plugs (he said they were shot) and also the timing assembly. However, now there is an odd shimmy when I drive it...particularly at high speeds. It is somewhat intermittent...sometimes it disappears but also reappears sometimes at low speeds. It has kind of a 'knocking' sound to it. I was wondering what kind of additional damage may have happened...the engine seems to run just fine now but my sense is perhaps the CV joints may have gotten rattled or maybe the steering assembly took a hit...the drivetrain was subjected to a fair amount of shaking for those final few miles... Thanks for your input, --Damien

well it's a '98 but the engine came from another vehicle...seemed like a lower-miles engine (at least relative to what I'm driving which has 140K miles). The engine seems fine now...but a shimmy has crept in. --Damien

yes...he did mention the 'keyway' and something about a strip of metal.

Well I was completely right. Turns out the crank pulley was failing (part of the timing belt assembly). But also all four plugs were completely shot. One symptom I noticed was the crankshaft rotor was getting wobbly...so I wasn't nuts to think it was the timing belt. The wobble was pretty noticable...so if you see that symptom you'd need to get it in sooner rather than later. Somehow I managed to limp it for 5 whole miles at highway speed with shot plugs and a failing timing belt assembly! My mechanic says it's not an interference engine but he said it's been known that when the timing assembly fails on one of those engines it can bend the valves somehow anyway... Cheers! --Damien

I hear ya. 'The law' is always about 25% stupid no matter where you go (or what you think). Even prison guards know that. Usually I just clear the code by disconnecting the battery and make the appointment soon thereafter before the codes reappear.

I just barely managed to drive it to the shop today. On the highway both cylinders completely went cold...I managed to limp it the final 5 miles to the shop (shuddering and all). Seems like an electrical/electronic failure...I guess I'll find out tomorrow. --Damien

Well I worked up enough nerve to twiddle with the wires... I pulled both wires out, inspected them, and reinstalled them. Now it seems to run fine again... Could be the gas, tho...a big, huge depression moved into the area (it's obvious what it is if you live here) and decided to stay...as it often does here in New England. All the excess moisture in the air may have gotten sucked into the tank...given that ethanol is hydrophilic. I used to get that problem all the time with a Saab I used to own years ago... After 5 years of headbanging mania most of us can't wait to get back into depression... --Damien

oh I see....under the 'wasted spark' system if one line fails so will the one that 180 degrees out-of-phase. Is this correct? --Damien

It's going to the shop tomorrow. I drove it around some more but still one or more cylinders is cold. I'll let you guys know what was wrong with it exactly as soon as I get it back so you know. Cheers! --Damien

well I swapped in a new coil pack (a task simple enough). But it made no difference. Engine sounds like only 3 cylinders are working. --Damien

Hi, Recently I got codes that both cyl. 1 and 2 were misfiring in my EJ22. I had a problem like that in the past but it was only in one cylinder. Turned out to be a plug had gone bad. What could be causing two cylinders to be misfiring like that suddently? It's too much of coincidence to be a plug or wire to me.... Thanks for any input... --Damien

You people seem to be indicating that those belts don't really snap on their own but rather due to another part failing first....

I wonder what the true composition of those belts are...it may be some kind of 'industrial secret'. My sense is that they really last a lot longer than advertised... It's part of the gamble....I'd hate to be doing 70 on the highway to have it snap with an interference engine. Aside from bent valves what other damage could it do a vehicle with a standard trannie? --Damien

well...it may be just cracked rubber...the composition of those belts must be way tougher than those used for the alternator and power steering. Can't judge a book by its cover...or candy by its wrapper. --Damien

That's a good question because my mechanic thought I was a nut when I wanted to get mine replaced and he's been working with Subarus for years and years. I'm guessing that those inner fibers they use to make them may very well be superduper tough... The impression I get on this board is that those belts are much tougher than we drivers think. Many of us simply do not know...I'm 98% driver...2% mechanic...but as an automotive engineer I'm probably 35% not full of s___. What exactly do they make those belts out of anyway? There may be a 'slippery slope' with decay on them...once their integrity is compromised by say a nick or cut or slight fray...it may fail rapidly. --Damien

ok...but it says 'outer'....the boot that burst was 'inner' (nearest the xmission). --Damien

Well...now I know where the Welsh word 'slipuducuppadalip' comes from... Engineering thoughts like that are real headaches....but I guess we gotta think them anyway.... :-( --Damien

oh ok...I checked the book and it says they are sealed bearings. It's a '98 OBW... I don't think my mechanic is trying to rip me off...I just think he wants to spare me the gory details.... Cheers! --Damien

How do wheel bearings get greased? Are there those tiny nozzles you attach a grease gun to? My mechanic usually greases the wheel bearings when I bring it in and I was wondering how they do it... Thanks, Damien