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maybe you should simply ditch the vehicle...for real. I had to do that with my '96. Find a real licensed, legal used car dealer...they may take it off your hands and even give a few bucks for it. Course then you'd be locked into payments...but it may be a wise reinvestment. The Captain goes down with the ship, laddie. --Damien

Hi, I have a newer Subaru with one of the clutches that is controlled by means of an hydraulic system. I was wondering how adjustments are made to modify its operation...the clutch seems to engage too quickly causing quite a shudder when I downshift sometimes.... I'm thinking the engine may be to blame as well....it's a 2.2L that was swapped in...maybe the engine was not mounted properly... Whaddya think? Thanks, Damien

seriously...get the bolts torqued properly. Eye ain't lion. (again) --Damien

hah...try getting the bolts torqued properly. I had a local shop do exactly just that and it eliminated a certain squealing/chirping that was coming from the brakes around turns. Fancy custom alloy wheels need fancy custom special attention. --Damien

I used a pretty copious amount in the tank and after about 1000 miles of driving the backfire/sputter is almost gone. One thing that also happened was one of the thin EGR hoses popped off the solenoid? I think it was. There was a lot of black carbon dust that spewed over the engine. I cleaned the EGR valve assy with a pipe cleaner and now the engine is running better than ever. Seafoam is a product that really seems to work....:-) I would also re-recommend Shell gas as the difference is horsepower and pickup is really very noticable. Other brands use more ethanol/methanol and sometimes even mix in a little water. I've been using 'Startron' which bills itself as an 'enzyme' cleaner. When using cheap gas I noticed a slight increase in pickup/hp. Another thing I noticed was in the exhaust...it was 'puffier' (if you will) and no dripping water out of the tailpipe. (see attachment) --Damien

I guess that would be fuse #16...says 'Engine Ignition System' in the owner's manual. Sound correct? --Damien

well yes but in order to effectively apply the solvent the engine needs to crank but not start...this draws the fluid in and applies it to the valves, pistons, rings etc. without combustion... Then I wait ten minutes, put the fuse back in and start the engine.... --Damien

Hi, What's the fuse to disable ignition. I'm going to suck Seafoam into the throttle body and I can't remember the fuse to disable spark.... I've a 98 OB with a standard trannie.... --Damien

I've got three Subarus in my driveway...all of which have 2.2L engines in spite of the fact that the tags on the body says they are all 2.5L engines so please excuse my skepticism. I guess those 2.5L either blew the headgaskets or the engines were swapped in anticipation of that. Cheers! --Damien

Alright...that was the answer I was looking for. Thanks! Regards, ---Damien p.s. Don't get bent.

How can I tell for sure...everywhere I look online (including the label under the hood) says it's a 2.5L engine...

The plugs are angled up...not horizontal. --Damien

Hi, I have a '98 Legacy Outback (standard) and the engine looks like a 2.2L but the label under the hood said it's a 2.5L engine. I looked a number of places online and all seem to indicate that it's a 2.5L engine.... Thanks for your replies... --Damien

Hmmm...patroling pickups policing petrol pumps... Overall the automobile economy is something that gets 'levelized' ultimately. Strict accounting would be impossible anyway... Cheers! --Damien

I don't know....thinking that pump readouts are that consistent and accurate across brand and station and that planet earth is devoid of...you know...fraud and/or embezzelment schemes would be entirely too inconceivable. Esp. nowadays when there's a hot war going on over who actually controls the product and the income derived there of. With me it's gas quality...and nose guy knows. I have a tendency to trust the gas light...but I've found when it's cold (below 40 degrees) it comes on when the level is still lower. Cheers! --Damien

I noticed that about 2nd gear, too on those transmissions. I put some Lucas additive (the really thick, gooey stuff -- not the synth) into the case (about 3-4 ounces) -- enough to top it off. It has alleviated the grinding and shifts more smoothly. I just get into the habit of shifting with more finesse -- rather than jamming the stick. --Damien

I guess one would have to take into account tires and tread depth as well as that impacts odometer readings.... :-\

well I guess I'm getting about par then...cuz for me it's about 50/50 'city' v. 'highway' driving. Around here Shell gas seems to be the quality stuff (I don't think my nose is lying to me). I usually gas up every 'click to light' but the fuel volume read at the pump has varied by as much as 3 gallons... Cheers! --Damien

Hello all, I have a 2.2L '98 OB (standard) and I was wondering what kind of mileage is typical on these vehicles. Upon fillup I drove an astonishing 360 miles (click to light) whereas when driving a '96 automatic OB I would be lucky to get 280 miles out of a fillup. My first question is: what is the tank capacity for this model, and, does it differ much from other Outbacks from year to year? I can't trust readings at the pump b/c it differs from station to station, pump to pump and also from hour to hour (nowadays that the ratios are controlled remotely via satellite by speculators who are into 'skimming off the top'). What also wreaks havoc in obtaining accurate mileage stats is the fact that nowadays there is typically ethanol/methanol in fuels (among other substances) and sometimes they mix in water as well. --Damien

I found one more hose that was not properly fastened...so that should about do it. Now it hardly backfires at all...(esp. now that I got the clutch...uh...adjusted). --Damien

It got mushy (and flat) but only when loosening the bleeder screw...I retightened it and pulled the clutch pedal back...then it sucked some fluid in from the reservoir. Then it operated normally. It would shudder somewhat before...but only on a downshift...and only into 2nd (and sometimes 3rd). Now it shudders less. :-\ The fluid from the bleeder was a little tan...but not brown or nasty. I guessed that that flush would not be a priority. --Damien

slave cylinder? Does that apply to the clutch? I've got a '98 Outback. --Damien

ok...well I went ahead and attempted to bleed the clutch reservoir...sure enough the clutch fluid drained but only some got sucked from the reservoir back into the system. I'm guessing maybe the inlet port may have gotten clogged or perhaps the system was over-pressurized or who knows... Anyway, I stopped after only draining maybe an ounce and a half from the system and topped off the fluid reservoir. I got back on the road again and it drove and shifted fine... It's slightly smoother shifting with less shudder now. I checked the reservoir again and the level hadn't budged.... I guess I got what I wished for..... --Damien

Well the fluid in the reservoir is getting yellow and a little bit nasty. I found a really good howto on changing clutch fluid for (apparently) these style (Subaru) clutches ----->http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-install/205212-flush-clutch-fluid.html It's a fairly simple procedure and (I'm told) is recommended maintenance. Cheers! --Damien p.s. I also recommend flushing the power steering fluid, too. I do it by simple drain, refill, drain refill reservoir.

I noticed that there's a special reservoir of fluid for the clutch in my new Outback... Does the fluid need to be changed from time to time like in a brake system...? What's the purpose of fluid in a clutch, anyway? --Damien