Fairtax4me

Did you re-adjust the throttle stop screw? It's tricky to get it right and will throw off idle speed if not set properly.

Evap switch is not easy to get to. Can't jump the evap thermal switch.

Control of the AC relay goes through the thermal switch on the evaporator core. If the switch is malfunctioning or senses the core is too cold it will cause the compressor clutch to cycle. If you have a thermal switch on the compressor there will be a 3 wire plug on/near the compressor. This is in-line with the pressure switch and can be jumped in the same manner.

The pressure switch is on top of the accumulator over on the side of the passenger strut tower. Is that the one you jumped? What method did you use? There is also a thermal switch on the evaporator, and a thermal switch in the compressor clutch.

Did you remove the cam sprockets to change the seals? Drivers side sprocket has notches on the back for the cam sensor. If you switched the sprockets by accident you'll get no cam sensor trigger.

How much $ ? As far as I can tell ABS tone ring is the only difference between pre-99 and post-99 axles. Tone rings are easy to knock off with a hammer.

Doable, but unless you're lowering the car there's not much point. Get some skid plates to protect the engine and trans from those rocks. It'll slide right over them. You'll be increasing COG since the engine, trans, and drivetrain will sit higher up in the body. Also puts more stress on the axle joints if you already have strut top spacers. That 1/2" difference in the driveshaft mount makes a TON of difference. It throws off the u-joint angles and causes serious driveline shudder.

No way to keep it "comfortable" and lose enough weight to make a difference. An Outback is just the wrong car to go that direction with. You can lower it to the ground, it will still be a pig in corners. Take away the power heated leather seats, sound insulation, and you maybe lost 100lbs. Sell it, buy an Impreza. 500lb crash diet, with the ability to shed a few more. Less sound insulation to begin with, lighter components all around. Add in the shorter wheelbase and you get a capable car with the proper tires. Cams, intake, full exhaust, and a tune will get you 20-30 extra horses out of the 2.5, for around $1,000-1,500.

Ground looping can actually create interference. Minor differences in electrical potential at each end will cause alternating current to flow through the shielding which induces stray currents (interference) in the signal wire that you're trying to shield. Grounding the shielding at only one end allows outside sources of interference to be directed to ground without looping.

Year? model? The fuses under the hood provide power to multiple sources inside the car. Need to check those first and the fusible link if your car has it.

Ohhh, this is one of those weird 25D heads with the hydraulic lifters instead of shims. Wasn't thinking about that before. I always install hydro lifters empty and let the engine pump them up.

Consider the engine usually runs at 190°F coolant temp. The exhaust system can run upwards of 1,000°F and a fair amount of heat will radiate into the engine compartment from the header pipes and cats (if you have cats). Not everything under the hood will reach 190°, but anything near the engine should be rated for at least that. Probably safer to go for 220-250°F.

Ill add, make sure the shielding is stripped back at least 1/2" from the center conductor, and the insulation on the drain wire overlaps the shielding by about 1/2".

The dual conductor is also more expensive I'm assuming? All you need to do is strip back the insulation over the shielding, strip about 2" of insulation off of a short length of 18-22awg wire and wrap it around the shield section several times then heat shrink over it.

There should be a joint connector near the ECU that already has the shields joined to the proper pin. At least for the engine harness sensors. The MAF sensor IIRC has its own shield pin on the ECU. The shielded wires are easy to find since they're usually grey or black and have what looks like a splice near the end wrapped in tape or heat shrink tubing.

Grounding for the shielding is done through the ECU. There are joint connectors at various places in the harness which connect sections of shielding, some of those connect the shielding to ground through a pin on the ECU.

The type of shielding probably isn't so critical on that car so long as its there and properly grounded. On newer cars with high speed networks the sheilding is definitely a major consideration since improper shielding can mess with communications between the modules. Kinda wondering why did you decide to replace all of the shielded wiring?

Not sure it would be too much work but alot of things would need to be custom made. Like engine and trans mount cross members, and the rear driveshaft if you wanted to retain AWD. Electronics could be worked around with a standalone ECU, like Meqasquirt, to run the engine.

If you have a fine file you can file the stems down to correct that. It does take some time though, and has to be done perfectly flat.

With the right tools and a welder, you can put an EJ into pretty much anything. They're a common swap into old Beetles. People use them in small airplanes and helicopters. The only limiting factor would be having enough space to physically fit the thing under the hood, and even that can be worked around depending on the vehicle. Do you have an idea in mind or just asking for the sake of curiosity?

Yeah they have two kits I was thinking of trying. One is a generic kit which I guess covers most cars, the other is some generic metric kit that has about 25 o-rings, but its $15 vs $5 for the smaller kit. Ill probably replace the accumulator too since its $14 new, and those usually come with o-rings. So I really only need the 2 on the compressor and the 2 on the condenser.

Check fuel pressure. 00-04 have an issue with a cap on the fuel pump assembly that splits and bleeds fuel pressure back into the tank. Usually causes minor problems at first and eventually turns into a hard start or no-start.

Anybody know if the AC o-ring assortment kits at Napa have the right size O-rings for these cars? I need to replace the condenser in my 95 Legacy. The o-ring on the compressor discharge hose on the left side was leaking because it was corroded underneath, and the bottom corner of the condenser is corrode through and leaking. So if I have to replace 2 I might as well do them all while I have the system open. So rather than pulling all of the o-rings out and trying to match them I'm wondering if I got one of those assortment kits of that would have all the sizes I need. It's like $5 and has about a dozen o-rings.

A couple inches is all you'll get if the exhaust is still attached. Also don't jack it under the oil pan. If the pan crushes it'll block the pickup screen and you'll starve the engine for oil. Use a block of wood about 12" long and jack it up by the block surface next to the pan. Do that on the side you're working on and it will lift the engine at an angle and make it easier to get the head bolts out.

Does engine temp make any difference? Cold vs warm? Does engine speed make any difference? What kind of plugs and what brand of wires did you use? The 2.2 is generally not to picky about wires as long as they're decent quality. Plugs should be standard copper.