Fairtax4me

Pretty sure you can put your 06 heads and intake on the 251 block.

You need a new head. No easy way to repair that. Have to re-bore the head to get a new bearing surface, then have to build up the bearings on the cams and machine them back to the correct size. Much easier to just get a new head. That type of damage is from dirt or metal shavings getting into the oil gallery that feeds the cam shaft. Probably got in there when you put the head gaskets on last. Could have also worked its way to there from the oil pump, or through the bypass valve in the oil filter.

Yep, only for the 95-99 Legacy. It's an 85 amp unit. Some big recall on them years ago so they had thousands of cores to rebuild and they could do them pretty cheap. Part number: 23700AA210 Lists for about $79. +$50 core 1stsubaruparts.com sells them for $68.

Alternator is going bad. This is a horrible test, and is a great way to fry control modules, and can also overwork and fry the voltage regulator.

Gurgling means there is still air in the system. Did you fill the block through the upper radiator hose? If you just fill the radiator the block will air-lock and will not fill. The system should hold at least 1.5 gallons. Any less than that goes in, the system has air in it.

Front seats and most interior panels will swap. Back seats will not swap. Wagon and sedan rear seats are entirely different.

Rear defrost is a big source of RFI. This could even be caused by a poor ground connection for the defrost grid, but that means pulling out the rear seats and pulling down the rear trim to get access to the wiring for the grid. The antenna cable can be checked pretty easily by pulling the radio out, or by reaching up behind the radio of your hands can fit.

Does the defrost still work? Probably a bad ground for the antenna, or the antenna wire shielding is shorted to the center signal wire or to the antenna grid on the window. Check the antenna cable for continuity from the outer to the center pin, there should be none.

Google search often works better than the board search, and you can narrow results down to one particular site to limit the number of results. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/116520-knock-sensor-101-and-replacement/

Plenty of people here have use ebay cheapies with no problems. $12 on amazon is even cheaper, but there really isn't any reason these should be expensive. Search for my knock sensor 101 thread for details on installation.

Yes. Dual port pipe will fit either one, and have the same diameter.

95 ej22 y pipe will fit. Have to have a dual port. Ej22s were port in 96 and on.

The one on the right is the old style. You can certainly see why the ECU would flip out and set a code with the wrong sprocket there.

Run the engine until its warm then the hoses should be as pliable as they'll ever get. Be careful not to break the large hose that runs down to the block.

The system doesn't have to hold pressure to start properly the next time. The pump should prime the system immediately when the key is turned. If pressure builds too slowly when cranking the fuel pump is bad. Put a scanner on it and see what the coolant temp sensor says.

Did you check the ones under the hood too? Probably the dash panel that supplies power for reverse lights by you never know. How did you check fuses? Remove them and check with an ohmmeter? Or just check both pins on each fuse with a test light? I like to remove them in case there is poor contact or corrosion between the fuse and the terminals in the fuse box. Also, you did check for power to the switch with the key On right? (Sounds silly but sometimes you just have a brain fart)

All N/A 2.5s changed to SOHC in 2000. If the engine looks identical and the plugs on the bellhousing actually plug in then I dont see there being an issue with engine compatability.

Did you swap the intake manifold from your old engine onto the new one? Or remove the intake manifold on the new engine for any reason? Trying to figure if the wires for the Cam sensor might be pinched under the manifold. Also (I should have thought of this before) check the pins in the big connectors on the bellhousing. Make sure none are bent or backed out of the connectors. And make sure the connectors are completely plugged in.

The only difference I can imagine is that maybe one is clocked slightly more advanced than the other. Engineers often specify different idle speed settings and ignition timing advance settings for auto vs manual because of the different amounts of load on the engine. Its all for emmissions regulation. Not hard to imagine maybe they have slightly different cam timing as well, especially on the newer stuff. Double double check the timing belt. Be absolutely sure the crank is right, and the cam marks are lined up with the seams in the heads, don't go by marks on the belt because they can be wrong. If you're completely sure the timing is right, swap the sprockets and see what you get.

Does the engine start and run? If it runs and you have a cam sensor code it's because the timing is off by a tooth. If it doesn't start, it could be the sprocket. The major difference is the number of notches on the back of the sprocket that the cam sensor reads. If you get the wrong sprocket you will have no spark because the ECU doesn't know which cylinder is at TDC.

Welcome to the board! Sorry to hear of your moms heart attack! Hope she recovers quickly and makes good changes to avoid another in the future. P0032 HO2S Heater control circuit High input, B1 S1. This is usually a short to voltage in the wiring to the heater in the sensor. The sensor heater is grounded through the ECU, so the ECU can monitor current draw and voltage drop of the heater element. So if the power wire (12v from main FI relay) or any other 12v source makes contact with the ground wire the ECU sees a higher than expected voltage on the ground wire and sets this code. Check the wiring for the front sensor where it meets the connector and where it feeds into the main harness. The TPS reading is pretty normal. Older cars the TPS would read 0% at closed throttle, but a lot of newer cars read anywhere from 0 up to about 15%. One thing to check is the throttle body bore around the throttle plate. Carbon buildup on the bore and on the edge of the plate can hold the plate open more than it should be. A good cleaning with Throttle body and Air intake cleaner could get the TPS reading back to 0%, but like I said some will read above 0 normally. Vibration at idle has been known to be caused by poor quality aftermarket axles on these cars, but only with Automatic trans while in Drive. If you have a MT, or the AT is in Park, and still have a vibration, that's going to be an engine problem. Please tell us you replaced all of the idler pulleys when you did the timing belt job! These belts hardly fail on their own. It's almost always an idler pulley that fails (usually the cogged one) and takes the belt out with it. AC belt tensioner idler bearing is a common failure. If the bearing locked up it would snap the bolt that holds the idler. Those bearings are cheap though and easy to replace if you have a press or a big C clamp.

I thought ignition switch too, except the dash illumination lights aren't supplied power through the switch. The switch provides power to the control side of the tail & illuminatin relay, but the load side comes straight from the battery. I'm still trying to make sense of just how the illumination module works (have been for months), but I don't see how how a voltage drop at the ignition switch would cause the dash illumination lighting to dim, since those lights get power directly from the fuse box. If its the warning lights (CEL, Seat belt, battery/charge, low fuel, etc.) that are dimming, then yes, most of those are powered directly by the ignition switch and would be affected if the switch had a poor contact. But those generally aren't lit except when first starting the car.

So... 2.5 auto trans Legacy GT, LSi, and Outback from 95-99 have 4.44 FDR? Any idea what 1-4 ratios are on that trans?

There's no connection between any of those circuits unless you go all the way back to the main fuse box. This is probably a poor connection somewhere. It could be a bad ground connection to the battery, or a poor connection of the chassis ground wire. (The small wire off the negative cable) Could also be poor connection through the SMJ connector where all the wires come through the firewall going to the dash fuse panel. Definitely check the battery connections very well. Make sure the terminals on the cables slide all the way onto the battery posts. The top of the post should stick out above the terminal.

Possible the axle joint is broken. Put the car in drive with the parking brake on and look under to see if one of the axle cups is turning. The one that turns is the broken axle.