nolicense

Im gonna unhook the throttle cable pedal side and see how it feels just pulling that by hand and check the pedal assembly with it unhooked from the cable too. and i know this thread is jumpin round alot, but my speedo isnt steady, would that be a loose connection on the gauge or tranny side or just faulty gauge that needs replacing? all other gauges work great.

ok gd you got it right turned out to be a timing issue, 1 tooth off on the distributor...got it running f'n sweet now, cept at 8* BTDC it dont like, it likes 10* BTDC. which im cool with. now my new problem is a sticky gas pedal at 1/8th or so throttle, it catches then I put extra pressure and it breaks past the sticky point and is smooth after that, but I got a old ea82 wagon Im going to take the gas pedal assembly out of and see if that fixes it up right. has anyone had this situation? it looks rusty and there is what looks like tar all over the floorboards (which im guessing is either adhesive for carpet or a sound deadener that has turned rotten) which may have gotten into the gas pedal assembly. any ideas or just swap the spare from the parts car over.

lol..good question and yes, half a tank of fresh 87 octane

according to doing the static timing Im right on except for the vacuum advance, but I cant really set that until I get the car running. I have the plug wires in correct order with rotor pointing at #1 plug wire at 8*BTDC which I found (thanks to you GD) via #1 piston TDC on compression stroke then backed the flywheel to the 8* mark. and then on the disty cap going counter-clockwise to 3then2then4 then back to #1 plug wire. the engine is cranking and has the sound that the timing is right, but since it wont fire im thinking it has something to do with the spark plugs now. My auto choke is functioning properly, I am getting fuel. Im pretty sure I have no vacuum leak(cant get good reading because engine wont run yet), all vacuum lines (brake booster, heater and vacuum advance hooked properly) PCV system correctly hooked up. all ground surfaces have been sanded down for good ground and all ground wires are hooked up and in good condition. there is one vacuum line coming from drivers side firewall that I dont have hooked up, the charcoal canister in the front fender said it was for fuel, should that be hooked to the manifold or can I leave it just sitting there? I triple checked the firing order and which way the rotor spins before I even tried to fire it up. but tomorrow, like i said, I will check to see if I get any spark to each individual plug. And I do get spark thru my coil. I also use a remote starter so i can be under the hood while I crank it over, and I do have the ignition in the "ON" position.

nope no backfiring. Im kind of thinking now that the plugs have fouled somehow, I did get a little coolant/water in the cylinder head after removing the ea81 manifold to swap in the ea82 manifold, but I cranked the motor with the plugs out and absolutely no fuel going to it and got most the water out then I hooked a small hose up to a wet/dry shop vac and sucked the rest of the coolant/water out with that. maybe the weber is running to lean or rich to get it to fire correctly, what is the base setting for a weber with the mixture screw?

have you put a vacuum gauge in there, too see if it is exactly a vacuum leak? theres been a few times working on cars where people say its a vacuum leak and then I hook up my vacuum gauge and its got a steady needle.

well, I had it dead on before. Just went and static timed it and its great. but still wont fire. I know i got spark from the coil. my compression is #1-179 #2-170 #3-173 #4-170 I have new plugs in there, less than 10 miles on them. But tomorrow, ill pull the plugs out one by one and see if they got spark by grounding them on the block. The damn thing seems like it wants to run, but just doesnt.

how do I know which is the compression stroke? should I just have a compression gauge attached while i hand crank the engine over?

when static timing the ea81 when I get my #1 cylinder at TDC where exactly is the rotor supposed to point on the engine. Is it like most vehicles where it points to the #1 cylinder, or does it point elsewhere? I have done a weber swap and tossed on an ea82 manifold so I have flipped the bracket thats bolts to the distributor over so my numbers on the distributor cap arent really relevant anymore. I was sure I had marked the last position of the rotor and dropped the distributor back in the same position but I cannot get it to turn over completely, i have also changed the plug wires to where it looks like they should be with the new distributor position. I can get a pic of it too, if anyone needs it for reference.

cool dealer it is then. I just wanted to ask since my probe is the same way. I plan to EJ swap it after I source a new transmission for my probe but for now I want it to still be in good shape and not have to worry bout that down the road before my EJ swap. and if I end up selling the motor after the swap I dont want a new prospective buyer need to have to deal with that. thanks guys

I am doing an ea82 manifold swap onto my ea81 tomorrow and installing a weber 32/36 on it. my question is which intake manifold gasket should I get for it? the carbed ea82 one or just a regular carbed ea81 gasket? I am also replacing the front main seal, valve cover gaskets, water pump gasket and oil pan gasket. there is no problem with those areas, i just feel better with new gaskets in place since it hasnt been drivin for awhile. is felpro a decent brand of gasket for these engines? i know with my ford probe 80% of the gaskets I need to buy from the mazda dealer since the felpro are very low quality (my exhaust manifold gasket by felpro is paper and non-metallic, same gasket from mazda is all metal and $4 cheaper as well) thanks

edrach - my brother told me bow-wow sold it, so im hittin them up on thursday. do they sell jets for the weber there as well? I want to get this running as soon as I can and dont want to have to order some if I find out I need some

what size jets should I replace them with if they arent the right sized jets?

heat the head up after a good soaking from pb blaster or equivalant(make sure its evaporated enough) and do the two nut trick and an impact gun or get a stud puller, with the heat the head should expand enough to get those bastards to come out

this is for my personal curiousity, but do they make a timing gear set for the ea82? from what ive heard and read the timing belt issues with the ea82 is usually the turn away point for most people, but if they had a timing gear set that little motor would have so much more potential, especially in the forced induction arena. :banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:

are you backfiring out your exhaust or your intake??

you beat me by fifteen bones...good deal... so Ive worked with carbs a ton, but never really re-jetted one. do the jets have their size stamped on them at all, or how do I find out what size jets I have. one more question, should I just use the ea81 manifold I have or should I swap in an ea82 manifold to bolt the weber to?

on my probe I had that problem and I used a steering wheel puller to push the axle out of the hub, had to take the hub and axle completely off though. since your gonna replace the axle take the hub and axle assembly out and beat it out of there with a hammer, thats worked wonders for me too. I had set it between two stack of cinder blocks with wood on top of each stack so it held the hub and the axle dangled freely and beat that thing like it was my stepchild

oh yeah, and since it was on a bug I dont need to rejet it do I?

just picked myself up a weber 32/36 dfav from a guy who had it on a VW until he rear-ended someone totaling his bug. It has been converted to electric choke. first I know the throttle plate is on the opposite side compared to a DG weber, but can I still use the same adaptor to bolt it to my ea81 manifold? I dont mind changing the throttle cable position, and running longer fuel lines to it. I just couldnt pass up the killer deal I got. it has been ran less than 2k miles and he showed me the original receipt for it when he bought it in january. and im talkin a killer deal. Ive read that the dg and df are basically the same except for the throttle plate placement. just wanna make sure I can use the dg adaptor instead of having to fab a custom one.

i trust the gauge as it gives reliable readings in my turbo car, and Ive used it to check for vacuum leaks in other vehicles too. timing is dead on, first thing i checked after I got it running. tell me more about this vacuum advance can? Ive noticed the automatic choke butterfly valve doesnt move very much, like maybe between 1/16"-3/16" could it be thats the problem?, basically flooding the bastard and not getting enough air into the cylinders? the only thing about that is I dont blow black smoke or smell gas like it was flooding the engine. Im trying to convince my buddy to let me borrow his weber since he doesnt drive his hatch at all (been almost 6 months since he lost his license and stopped driving the thing.), but hes ignorant and says he needs it...that d*ck...i should tell him that the longer it sits the more chance that its gonna crap out..prolly wont crap out, but hopefully i can convince him. ill run a compression test on it and see what numbers I come up with.

ok...I was looking for a vacuum leak on my ea81, so I hooked up my vac/boost gauge from my turbo probe. its got a 2bbl hitachi and I tapped into the manifold for vacuum reading. @ 1200rpms it reads 10 for vacuum, doesnt fluctuate at all (except when I hit the throttle then it goes to zero like normal, and off the throttle back to 10). I sprayed carb cleaner all around the carb and didnt get a rise in rpms at all, except when I sprayed it directly into the carb. it idles there (@1200rpms) for a minute or so, then it just dies on me. The vacuum reading does not get over 10. It should be between 20 and 25 IIRC. also I have a small delay from when I hit the gas to when the engine responds to me steppin on the gas. I have unplugged the feedback computer and still get the same problem. think my carb has pretty much taken a crap? I have a small rip in the accelerator pump boot, would that cause these symptoms? I would drop a weber on it, just dont have the money to pick one up...used or new. Unless someone knows what cars they came on stock back in the day.

if you can make it to tacoma the pull-a-part there has a few subies from what my buddy told me, and its just $20..well 16.50 plus 3.50 core. I know its quite a drive for ya. goto pullapartwa dot com and call them up and see what they have in stock. they only give make, model and year...but they dont tell ya if its a gl or dl submodel.

well just beofre I read your post GD, i had taken off the external igniter and resistor and popped that other disty in (it came off a ea81 hatch that was modified for high altitude use, as thats what the sticker under the hood said) got it running finally, now to chase down a possible vacuum leak. on the new distributor i have one of the vacuum hookups plugged up and the other plugged in to the proper location, I dont know if or think I need them both hooked up since its a different carb than the car it came off of. it will not stay running at all unless I play with the gas pedal (which is stiff as hell) and I adjusted the idle screw so for a minute it stays around 1k-1.4k rpms beofre it dies and the idle is rough. it does have more get up and go than I expected, which is nice only if the car will stay running. I just drove around the block and I had to pop the clutch after every turn and at every california stop i did.

ok heres a couple more pics. 1st is of disty that came with the car 2nd is one i got from the junkyard, was curious if it would work at all the second one looks a little under the weather. the junker car had the exact same coil but lacked the external igniter and resistor. If it doesnt work im going to have to wait til thursday or friday before I can go back to the junkyard. Ill try one last time with a matching coil and disty from a ccar at the junkyard.and if that dont work then I may just go and pull an SPFI setup and swap that in instead. one more question...does anyone know what those three relays control from the pic a few posts back