Ricearu

mine work fine and are from a isuzu rodeo 16" steel six spokes

your one filter probably won't cut it. it needs light vacuum.

my advice (this is from when I had my standard hatch (std). I did the same thing and turns out I had a stuck ring. Remove all the spark plugs, Dribble about 2oz of MARVEL MYSTERY OIL into the spark plug hole just before top dead center (one at a time) reinstall the plug, then SLOWLY apply pressure on the crank bolt with a breaker bar to force the MMO past said stuck rings (DON'T USE THE STARTER OR YOU WILL BEND A ROD) Take your time and do it ONE cylinder at a time. as you do the rest, take the "done" plugs out and leave rags over the holes so any excess MMO can escape. when you have done all 4, clear the area, cover the plug holes with rags and spin the engine with the starter to clear out any remaining mmo. dump the rest of the MMO into the oil, reinstall plugs, and fire it up. give it 5 minutes or so to work with the engine running, then change the oil. I have had this work before and it's worth a shot to see if it can fix it for you. also, if you have alot of miles on your engine, you may want to run a thicker oil. I run 15w40 shell rotella in both my subaru's because they all have MILES on it.

I have daily experiences with chinese internal combustion engines! I run a chinese atv/scooter parts department, and not some two bit dealer, I work for the manufacturer owned importer! Miles if you need parts, let me know. I already have a cheater 50cc scoot, which is really a 63cc from the factory, and all I did to it was an 88 main jet and 6.5g dr.pulley sliders and I have had her to 53mph on flat land. that was a really long straight normally she will do about 47.

i will take two!!! that thing is DOPE!

she is a 150cc and so far I have had her to 55mph on my street! shouldn't be long before she is insured and on the road. I cant handle that much chrome in one package... so I partially murdered it out

Those look incredible, only one problem, you need to repaint or reclear the rest of the car to match. I like your car, and I like the paint. Im not hating, just that they look.... too good.

just buy a used (low mile ish) ej25d do the gaskets, with subaru MLM gaskets, and buy a conversion and stuff that into the car. its 165hp and really perky engine. I love the one in my forester, just has piston slap till it warms up. Last week I made a run to home depot, then to work, 140miles with a 16ft car hauler and it didn't complain.

check for other rust. they did a sorry job sealing the ends of that tube from the factory. just start hitting subframes underneath with a hammer. if everything is solid, then just replace what's done.

i want to put ej seats in my wagon, just for the simple fact that my driver seat looks like it went sunbathing in front of a firing squad, then a knife wielding slasher got to it, then an elephant stamped on it.

even in 2wd the rear differential spins the driveshaft. ujoints can cause this. Grab the yoke of the diff and check for play. if no play, then you are ok to replace the driveshaft.

sweet. I wish I had new tires. large new tires...

smells a little fishy to me... http://www.rockauto.com starting at $5 on closeout, $20 normally. shipping usually is cheap as dirt also. maybe $10.

also what most people don't know is that when using sealant, put it on in a thin layer(1/16" or so), snug the bolts just until the pooky starts to squish out then let it sit for 30 minutes or more to firm up, THEN torque the bolts to spec. this allows the pooky to act like more of a gasket instead of a glue.

thats good to do. I have people want me to do timing belts for them, and I refuse if they don't replace the idlers, and water pump(if tb driven) and explain why. one of my friend's would not replace the idlers on his 1.8 impreza, one locked up, pulled out the threads from the case and then stripped the new belt. so I charged him for idlers, the whole job again, helicoil in the engine case, new belt and labor (cheap for friend)

It truely is luck of the draw. I bought 2 new cardones from oreilly's for my wagon, one knocks under acceleration and light turning only, the other works great. I have been too lazy to go yank it to have it warranteed. my experience with autozone dura-crap axles is not to trust them further than you can throw them...

good deal on the rear discs. I love mine. saved me from rump roast-ending a tahoe that cut me off when HE had the yield and jumped into my lane. didn't even lock wheels up. it just went from 50-0 in an instant.

it looks good but that cant be good for new brake pads..

I have a chinese moped, cost me like 800 new. then i bought a house in the boonies where the County roads are all 55mph... my moped has 56 miles on it and with variator sliders, it runs 45mph :banana: nowadays, i just ride it to the mailbox it's for sale. I need a 150cc to ride to town

check to see if your tires are the same size. also it can be affected if the fronts are bald and the backs are still good then the tire sizes are effectively different, even though they all say the same size on the side

mine never rumble. ever. i would think to check the u-joints at the carrier bearing first

tstat is on the passenger side. get it from the dealer. the aftermarket ones are JUNK.

+1000

it will definitely do it if your tires are different sizes and even different tread lifes. it needs to be exact to run 4wd on dry pavement. you will know its binding if it it difficult to get back into 2wd. The crank case vent filter goes inside the air cleaner housing. don't use 4wd on dry pavement...not necessary and can break stuff. and kills your MPG

don't worry about the plastic tank for now. it should be in between the lines. remove the radiator cap (ENGINE STONE COLD) and look in there for coolant. fill it, burping (squeezing) the air from the upper and lower radiator hoses as you fill it.