Ricearu

how does the actual engine oil look on the dipstick? If it looks ok, likely its the intake gaskets, but hard to say really. These motors aren't that tempermental, if the repair was done right the first time, it probobly won't blow headgaskets for the life of the vehicle. Unless you overheat it, which is the same with overheating ANY aluminum engine. These aren't old cast iron small block chevy v8's here. what type of intake gaskets were used? if they were fel-pro or the like, it may be your problem right there.

I hate it. If I use non-ethanol gas, I dont get pre-det., if I do, I do. Not to mention my fuel economy goes down... I commute 100-120 miles per day (depending on if I take the baby to daycare or mommy does), I live 48 highway miles from work. Losing 2-3 mpg sucks

I would not want to pull my empty 1200lb utility/hauler with my car, much less with something on it. Now the -500lb tiny teardrop camper I am building one day, totally

wow, that car is so clean? any known reason why it 'sploded? at least she runs and drives again! glad to hear that!

or rodeo, same wheel here very minimal rub with street tires, only on diving hard turns with bumps.

Even wierder, the STD hatch was a 1.6. It was a turd and I loved it! The other hatches were 1.8 No a/c, crank windows, no accessories to speak of, just a stripped down hatch, got 38 mpg if you babied it.

got my relay/fuse/junction box finished

yeah my 87 STD hatch had a ea81

its my wife's 76 merkadez 300D Yeah... I kinda have some lawn ornaments:lol:

before after some rearanging, move the big red burb to the back yard, and moved my project up to the plate... Lots of work to do still. and I cleaned out my shed, note all the crap scattered about. I sealed most of the cosmetic rust with grey primer, just because I was bored lol.

starter solenoid should not pull 30A, there is a short somewhere, possibly in the solenoid itself... I would fix the start issue before throwing money at a new alternator. oh and to the original poster, the "random pieces of wire" that are in the fusable links, cause car destroying fires because it doesn't break connection when there is a circuit fault.

funny because I BLASTED the Beasty Boys in the hood of dallas and got funny looks from the locals...:lol:, (btw, I have a phoenix gold 10, and amp and a sony 8 all back there) my roof rack rattles like he!!

if you are running at stoichiometeric a/f ration (14.7:1) then your mileage will not get any better, and if you FLOOR IT, it WILL Richen up to 10:1... My forrester gets 300miles to a tank which is roughly 24mpg or so.

the ea82t is not a "turbo car", and that "kick" is non existant. If I were you, I would put a first gen legacy 2.2 in it. the stock ea82 makes ~90hp, the turd-bo ea82t makes ~120hp, and is a nightmare, and the lego EJ22 makes ~135hp, and is MUCH more reliable for the money. If you keep good oil in them, EJ22's will run 300k no problem, mine had 250k with original HG's

nah, the trans can't handle it for long. "taking the axles out" will last forever if you don't beat it, but if beating it is the point, then save the time and go buy a old rump roast rwd celica, they are dog cheap.

me either, it was a figure of speech from the point of view of the dumb wrx/sti owners who know nothing about old subaru's. I love my car, and i hate it, thats ok because it loves/hates me too, and lets me know when I anger it

not to sound negative, but what's wrong with your old engne?

ya. pretty much , or the ricers chime in and say dumb crap like, you should fix your misfire, and did you burn an exhaust valve spraying that wagon? :-\ I stopped going to the street races and started going off-roading

then watch out for sharp turn reverse's lol, I was reversing into a parking spot, turned to lock and began to let out the clutch and it sounded like a grenade going off it literally shot the shaft out and scattered the race (in piecies) and 6 large ball bearings all over their parking lot. I had to shove the shaft back into the cup to drive it home.

I had an axle cause that, it would do it randomly, but more often when brakes were applied. It would almost rip the wheel from my hands. My wife refused to drive it a week or so later, the axle sploded at the tax office, drove it home in 4H, put in a new axle and it never did it again. if you have a clicking axle, I would suspect it first. I think it happens when one of the ball bearings falls out of a broken race and the axle is able to move to that side causing the wobble-jerk

I schooled a couple of those guys on subaru history at a hobby lobby meet one day, it wasn't nasioc but those guys were nasioc douches that my impreza owning friend knew. They tried to tell me my car was "awd". They also didn't know what a EA82 was. Hell, the EVO GUYS knew more about my car. Thats just sad. Not everyone who owns a wrx is a douche, but there tend to be alot of them, especially in NORTH RICHLAND HILLS, TX. They always do a double take when they hear my unmistakeable subaru exhaust note though! They look for a wrx, and all they see is a crappy digi camo'd wagon lol

if you clogged the fuel pressure regulator, then that is why there is no fuel. Some hobby tweezers might help with this. Fix the broken wire in the idle air control valve, It is really hard to tell where it goes but if you give me more details on the wire, I can go look at my GL which is an 88 and has spfi

we will, we will

you may also need to replace the fan clutch, if it has one. my 88 GL's mech fan clutch went out on me and did similar. To check it, warm engine up, maybe till its running a little too warm. Turn the engine off and spin the mechanical fan and see if it has much resistance. If the engine is above about half way, that clutch on the fan should have alot of resistance and should be almost locked up. The hotter the fan clutch face gets, the more grip it gives to the shaft, thus spinning the fan faster and cooling more...