logic23
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Posts posted by logic23
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Hey group been a minute since ive posted.
I have a customers 06 LLbean forester 2.5 NA engine.
Its having an issue where sometimes it will crank ( normal speed) but not start.
The weird thing is If you put a jumper pack or charger on it it starts right up.
I swapped in a different battery before i did the swap but that didnt seem to change anything
It doesnt seem to matter how long the car has sat but temp might have an issue.
I just put a 50-60k JDM engine in the car and had hoped that with the engine swap the start issue would go away.
when we installed the engine yesterday it fired right up and then an hour or so later when i went to run an errand but today.
Hope someone here has seen this and can shed some light on the issue.
Thanks, Craig
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Hey guys, I picked up an 05 Forester XT with a blown 2.5 engine with the avcs set up.
I know there is a JDM 2.0 turbo with avcs that will replace it but does anyone know about using a non avcs 2.0 turbo engine and doing some tune or delete trick so that the ECU insn't looking for the AVCS stuff.
I would like to run the more reliable 2002-2003 wrx stuff.
Thanks
Craig
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the piston shape is the main way to tell.
shoot us a pic of the pistons and im sure one of us can figure it out
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Use the 2.5 turbo HG when you put it back together.
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not very much. the engines were just installed.
After they burp their air thats about a cup or so of anti freeze to top off.
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Hello i have a question that some of you might be able to answer.
I have a couple customers 99 foresters that i just installed JDM 2.0 SOHC engines. After test driving them and getting them up to temp i noticed that the radiator hoses have a decent amount of pressure in them. You can still squeeze the hose but you cant squeeze it enough to get the sides of the hose to touch. On my 99 outback with a phase 1 2.2 i can drive it the same distance/temp and the hose has almost no pressure in it when warmed up.
Ive never paid much attention to hose pressure unless there's an overheating issue.
Just wondering what the difference might be
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The issue with the 2011 is that it jumped time and bent valves.
Thanks
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Shortblock as in the lower end and heads ?
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I haven't gotten too far with this project but I already found one difference: The spark plug tubes are about an 1/8 shorter on the 2011 engine.
When you go to bolt the valve covers down you are really squishing the spark plug tube seal against the valve cover.
Ill take some pics once i get the 2011 engine out and see if there are other differences.
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Hello group,
I have a friends 2011 outback with a N/A 2.5 that needs an engine. I have a low mileage 2008 JDM N/A 2.5 engine that i wondered would fit.
The valve covers will need swapped so that the coil packs will have somewere to bolt. There is also the obvious peripherals like the intake that i will need to swap.
Any help is appreciated,
Craig
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you can test the ohms of resistance at the plugs. all the sensors should be real close to each other. The bad one probably wont have a reading .
THe ringer is that they can be good but the part that sticks out can be bent or broken off and not giving the computer a signal
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It will be less trouble to get the right trans. You can get low mileage ones from the JDM outfits for 2-300. Or any junkyard they dont fail that often so you have good ods that youll get a good one .
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i have used the earlier DOHC 2.5 short blocks and their corresponding head gaskets. You can still buy these thru JDM importers.
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Really these engines are all junk from the get go.
They have bad ring failures, AVLS sensor failures and the original crappy headgaskets that subaru has been putting on the engines since 99.
They are over designed and under engineered.
I see tons of these engines failing around 90K.
After 05 subarus quality dropped off and the cars have tons of issues.
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i think you will find that your rear brakes are frozen up and your fronts arent fully engaging.
Make sure that your pads move easily thru the brackets and that the pins slide freely.
Usually the bottom pins are frozen
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Yeah you can take the wheel off and bang on the center part of the drum. this should help "release" the stuck brake.
Put car back on ground and try and drive it.
The flickering lights are on the dash it could be the alternator.. might clear up after its been driven a little
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I agree that these transmission are bullet proof. Most 95-2004 subarus go to the junk yards with their original trasnmissions.
In 14 yrs of subaru repair i have only replaced ones that were abused and broke the ring and pinion gears... oh and one that the trans-cooler lines broke and they kept driving it with no fluid.
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the Idle control valve/motors do fail from time to time.
When i have annoying issues like this i usually swap the whole intake. This eliminates over 1/2 of the potential problems all at once.
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yes just using existing legacy or impreza struts will work. Like they said youll need to remove the spacers. There are at the front cradle, rear transmission mount and rear subframe. The steering universal is also shorter.
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If you got a coil from Autozone that could be the issue too. The aftermarket ones they sell are junk. You are better with a used Subaru one.
I have worked on Subarus only for 14 years and have only replaced a couple. They had burnt terminals from crappy wire sets being installed.
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99% of the time miss-fires are bad wires. Use NGK the ones you get at autozone and the likes are junk.
Next go after plugs.
Also check the coil terminals for corrosion. They should be bright
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It also seems to be burning oil... white smoke out the tailpipe. My thoughts were failed rings/low compression. I just dont know the quirks of this engine.
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Hello team. I am reaching out before i start spending time diagnosing to see if any of you have run into issues with the 06 era H-6 3.0 engine that has a dead miss on three cylinders. ( 2 , 4 and 6) Just seeing if this is a know issue before i waste time/money. Thanks,Craig
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Subaru gets their parts from the same suppliers as every other vehicle. The plastic pulley isn't a problem limited to Subaru. Those are something that really has to be replaced every time the belts are replaced. The bearings in them are just not the same quality they used to be, and that affects everything on the road. Mercedes, BMW, ford, GM, VW (as I'm sure you know), etc., all have problems with plastic pulleys.
I do agree on the head gasket problems, and especially the rod bearing problems. I've held out on buying any Subarus in the 05+ years due to those problems, and others. The interior quality in the mid-2000 years is pretty horrible IMO. Cheap plastic panels that rattle on every little bump. Uncomfortable seats, poor quality electronics, cheaper switches, window motors... The list could go on and on.
Yep everyone is doing it :/ and its only getting worse/cheaper stuff.
2008 Outback crank no start
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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once it starts youll need to drive it.. THis year subaru needs to "learn" how to properly run the engine after the battery has been disconnected.. same thing happens after you clear the check engine lights. They will run like crap for a short while then usually run fine after.