quartus

I think I have the same issue, how do you check for that?

What is the rubber good deal? :-\

Yellow wire is "always on" 12v (for memory retention) and Red is ACC controlled power , i.e. ig switch must be turned on for 12v to be present.

Is the lime green connector just a single terminal? The relays are for AC (with 15a fuse) & electric cooling fan.

Here's from the Seafoam website about lenght of time to leave in oil before changing based on pre or post addition: 1. As a pre service cleaner for old oil residue, sticky rings or valve train noise, pour 1 ½ ounces of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the engine oil crankcase for EACH quart of oil capacity, including filter. Drive a MINIMUM of 30 minutes/miles, MAXIMUM 100 miles, and then do your oil change service – Lube, Oil & Filter (LOF). This begins the process of safely/slowly re liquefying the old oil residue so contaminants may flow and be filtered. This also makes your old oil dirtier, quickly, so a LOF service is necessary when the oil gets dirty. Great for Turbocharged & Supercharged applications where oils deteriorate so quickly due to heat, and leave those residues that NEED CLEANING. 2. As an after service additive into fresh oil, nearly fresh oil, or oil (used condition) that is NOT ready to be changed (based on mileage since last oil change), put the same amount of Sea Foam Motor Treatment into the crankcase as described above, and then regularly monitor your oil for color and clarity. Set a predetermined schedule for checking the oil condition on a mileage, timed, or event basis (like every time you add fuel, etc.) to determine when an oil service is necessary. Monitoring of the oil for color and clarity will tell you when it is time to do an oil change service. NOTE: Do not exceed 3,000 miles without changing the oil.

Yep that worked for me, put grease in joint, clean boot surface off with alcohol, cut the tube in a nice strip, coat both sides with rtv and loosely wrap cv/doj boot (quite messy), tywrap it in place, let dry.

The turbo is all stock and boost is currently only around 5psi (working on that) and fuel pump is new & the pressure is ~ 40 psi.

Not stupid, no just regular gas.

I got the combo boost/vacuum gauge. No bucking more like a bad miss.

86 GL-10, it has the flapper style MAF.

Save your money & time! Here's my experience. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=104088

Yes, new NKG plugs (0.040 gap) & wires, also new cap, rotor & stock coil. Took plugs out again last weekend just to be sure gap was correct & wire boots were seated, I did notice 1&3 plugs were tan but 2&4 were black and I think I caught a whiff of raw gas after the "stumble" yesterday.

I have a continuing problem with stumbling while boosting, a common reply I see for stumbling or misses is clogged cat. How exactly do you check for a clogged cat or other exhaust restriction? Other posted threads on the problem http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=105402 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=104058

Rebooting sounds like a real pain, where do you buy yours? Do you know the spline count I would need/ I'm guessing it would be a good time to replace ball joints too since its disassembled.

OK now it makes sense, the pot is the controller and the wastegate is kept closed by the spring when its not being "controlled". Thanks, now I see I have a mod to make and I know the turbo is good! Has anyone already done this mod successfully, some photos would be great!