RebelYJ

Care to clean out your private messages? Can't respond...

I have my lift for sale if anyone is interested. I was unable to complete my brat due to smog issues in this horrible state of california. So my Brat and everything has to go...First come first serve, $300 Shipped to continental US.

If you can do a rotary try and get a Renesis to work. They are found in the new rx-8's and have a 3rd oil injector in the middle to help the life of apex seals last a bit longer. And the new ones are almost much more reliable. I had my RX-8 for about a year and put over 20k miles on it and never once had ANY issues of flooding. They have them tuned for reliability very nicely compared to the first and second gen 7's.

Picked up one of those remans for $50 shipped off rockauto, go get a pully this weekend and I'll be way under $75 bucks for an (almost) double the power alt upgrade! Now time to go get some more lights!

Ok here's some wiring diagrams. Cover (for those interested): On back it says "Covers: Sedan, Coupe, Hardtop, Pick-up and Station Wagon with 66.4, 77.3, 83.1, and 97 cu in engines. Covers all 4WD and MPV models including BRAT" http://img690.imageshack.us/i/scan0001zu.jpg/ 1977 Sedan (one page): http://img203.imageshack.us/i/scan0002bt.jpg/ 4WD MPV (Also Brat / 3 Pages) They all flow together if you tape them as one it makes it really easy to follow: One: http://img688.imageshack.us/i/scan0003s.jpg/ Two: http://img197.imageshack.us/i/scan0004ih.jpg/ Three: http://img716.imageshack.us/i/scan0005t.jpg/ All better, just hit zoom and you'll see it for sure!

I have an 80 chiltons with the wiring in it. I should be able to upload those tomorrow morning if they'll work. Not much should have really changed.

Thanks for the help guys. I did just replace the cat with that new exhaust you guys might have seen on ebay a couple weeks back. It was the whole y-pipe. Not sure if the cat is fully functional however... I don't see how it was a lame excuse. Dieseling is a term referred to the run-on of a engine igniting without the source of a spark, generally just raw fuel. I agree yes that could be an issue at shut down however the tech had no idea what that 'solenoid' was and I tried explaining it to him that in did not effect how the car runs (I have actual plunger inside removed). He disagreed with me, so to solve that I'm just going to tape a wire to it and call it good Due to the many issues I have, I have spent most of my time asking around where I could just spend some $$ to pass as opposed to wasting countless time and other monies to get it back like stock. Tomorrow it's time to call up the state and see if I can get $500 to help 'fix it'

Ok hopefully this one will be different from all the other ones I see. And yes I read a crap load of them and nothing seemed to say what I need answered. Here's the dilemma, I have been trying to pass ca smog and have had absolutely NO luck what so ever. So I am going to try tackling the issues one by one. First off is both shops I went to say my timing is at about 14*. How I don't even see possible. I have had timing issues in the past but have it all working and timed great or at least so I thought. The way I have it timed is just with a generic sears timing light from my buddy that clips to #1 lead and flashes when there is a spark. Typical light I suppose. I have the vacuum advance and vacuum hose plugged and the motor at a decent idle of ~800-850. When I flash the light I get ~8* +/- a degree due to a slight misfire I believe i have. But right on and shouldn't have any issues. When hooked back up it still idles fine and timing still at 8*. When accelerating I see the normal advance working its way up. However when I take it to the smog shop they hook up their fancy shmancy snap-on timing light with a bunch of features. When they look at it, it says '0' on theirs when it flashes right at the 8 mark. But they insist that to do it they hit the advance to where it says 8 on their timing light. Now I'm just confused as hell as to which way is right or what, but the motor runs great even with a craptachi carb. Does anyone have any insight? Also, I failed smog dramtically, they also said I couldn't pass because the ADS wire was disconnected, and I explained to them it doesn't effect emissions just shut-down, failed the evap test, and a gross polluter (CO and HC).

Ben, I have an almost new one on driver side taillight if you would like me to scan that for you...I'll also double check the measurements and see if it adds up.

Gaskets look good, I would if I had a set of side mirrors! My brat never came with any and not high on my priority list to find some. Was thinking of doing 'Z' style on front fender anyways...

To save you some shipping costs, you don't have to ship mine until the bolts come in. I still have to find a set of rear discs to swap over and then do the 6 lug swap and get some tires!

Happy birthday man, have fun and be safe! Still haven't sent my kit yet

Money sent Bill, hope the bolts come in soon

Fine with me, whatever is best for you. I'm still stoked no matter when it comes!

Yes it has been done, and highly recommended. It is quite an undertaking though, so make sure you search and research everything you can. There's tons on this forum, just look around. I am planning an EJ22 swap as soon as I can, but right now I am working on the lift/tires, then the powerplant to move it all!

I'm stoked. Think I'll be able to squeeze 215/85R15 Tsl super swampers under there with minimal cutting? If not i'll just do major cutting! Glad see it looks great, can't wait! And you should have my shipping info...

Looks great, can't wait to get this installed! I should have the $$ by the 17th!

I'll take one, was lookin for a lift and this will definitely make it easy! When do you need the $$ by?

^ What GD said. On step #2 I also double checked, by actually looking in the cylinder and I could see when the valves were open, but not when they were closed.

THE BRAT LIVES!!! :banana: Thanks for all the help everybody finally got it all running right and now I hear the exhaust backfires that I thought I should've in the first place since it's all rusted out... The solution...double check your timing! Went back to double check and look at TDC on #1 then looked at the rotor position...and it was pointed exactly the opposite way...so realigned the wires to the according position and voila! Ran like a champ with no intake backfire! Figures karma would bite me in the butt because I thought the one thing I did right was the timing :-\ Again thanks for the help everyone, just questioning the work I did made my error visible!

Fortunately I do not have any over heating issues. I'll try advancing it a little bit more when I get off work and see if it improves at all...

Just had a thought that maybe I tightened my cable back down on the tight side so maybe it doesn't close all the way. Will check tomorrow... Not sure which throttle screw you're talking about, but I had the fast idle screw back all the was off and idle was still high... It's not a misfire, just an all around intake backfire when under a big load. I can slowly rev it 4 grand no problems with no misfire. And I recently (within the last 2 weeks) replaced the cap, rotor, wires, and plugs, and checked the coil to be in specs.

I actually did just replace the flywheel/clutch a couple days ago (which works great compared to the chewed up old one with shot PP and squeky throwout bearing). However this was a problem before and still after that. And I just double checked and it is still correct.

I've double and triple checked the timing...however that was at 1300 rpms. Where i had it timed at 9* so it should be more back to 8 around idle where it should be. The lean sounds right but I'm out of ideas on how to actually fix that. Tomorrow I plan on adding a small spacer to have the accelerator pump be pushed a little further to see if it's not even doing anything. When I do step on the gas, it barely move the little orange plunger on top...

Well still having issues getting my brat moving. Rebuilt the carb for the most part (was my first carb rebuild). Wish I could get rid of the craptachi and get a weber but have very limited money. The problem is I have a severe backfire (intake) when accelerating. Pretty much any load on the engine and it happens. When trying to drive it, the car bucks and rocks like crazy and almost stalls out. I am thinking my accelerator pump is whack but not sure if that would be the only issue. It definitely run a lot better since being cleaned however now the idle sits around 1250 and the idle screw is all the way in, and as I write this I realize the idle screw didn't make any difference in the idle. But to be honest for now I don't care about that, I can live with that for now even though it's a sign something is not right. I just need to be able to drive it for the rain season, but can't even get fast enough to get out of second gear... Any pointers would be great, I'm just getting stuck and irritated and can't seem to find any solutions from anywhere Thanks -Brian