corvette6698512
-
Posts
128 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by corvette6698512
-
-
I figured it out. Had a cut wire the whole time. She runs perfect now. I was excited to get it running again so I beat on it a little and took video. I did some exhaust work today too(after the video) and now it sounds like a wrx without a turbo haha. Heres a video with a very small restricting muffler.
I am also curious if there is an adjustment for idle. It idles at 1900 rpm and I would prefer it to be correct. I have read maybe the IAC is dirty or something. 1900 seems way excessive to me and its too loud at idle.
-
Go here. http://www.sjrlift.com/ Let me know when its all lifted we can go wheelin.
-
I picked up the ecu out of a ;91 legacy 5 speed. It does the same thing. It does not have the LED light so I dont know if its the exact same problem. So what all should I check? It has no power at the injectors.
-
I just checked out of curriosity. The wire I hooked up had power when I thought it didnt. I think its definitely a possibility of a fried ECU. Is there anything I need to look for when trying to find another ECU? I checked the injectors and there is no power or grounds on them. Thanks guys.
-
So I looked over all the plugs and wires. they all look connected. Does anyone know where the power supply wire for the injectors comes from on the ecu?
-
Also, I would check all your fusible links and fuses. Something could have blown while you were out playing with it. Also check your grounds as well.
If this is the car you got from scott, that wiring was a mess, so you might have accidentally unpluged/loosened some wires in the engine bay as well, so maybe just go out and go over the area where you were working and see if something obvious stands out or that is loose? Sometimes we miss the simple things to try...
I did all of these. I guess it does not hurt to double check everything though.
-
I know it wasnt smart to just hook up wires without a diagram but from my previous automobile knowledge, the tach wire is usually hooked up to the negative on the coil and I was told it was yellow. It was not hooked up to the coil at all. I am leaning towards a ground or plug issue here as it happend to all the injectors at one time. Where can I get this FMS scan, I have searched to no avail. Thanks for the help it IS greatly appreciated. I really like this car and would like to drive it again. Thanks again guys(and gals)!
-
I hooked up the yellow wire that was connected on the old coil to the tach wire of the ecu. Now it wont start lol. I put everything back to the way it was and it still wont start.
-
Well I went out there today an hour after I got home and now it wont start. The flashy on the ecu says 14, 15, 16, and 17 which indicates all 4 injectors. I dont know what could have happend. Any ideas? I need to get this thing running asap.
-
Ok, so I tested the tach wire I found with a tach I had. Its the right one, so I know thats good. I found the yellow wire that went into the cabin of the car on a big yellow plug. There was 7 pins on the connector. One was yellow, one was red, one was black, blue and then a few yellow and red ones. None of them are unplugged and thats the only thing with a solid yellow wire. I plugged in the tach wire to the yellow one and nothing. Then tried hooking up power and ground to the red and black wires along with the yellow one and still nothing. What am I doing wrong? Thanks
-
I read through that and didn't see much about the tach hookup. I am wondering where to find the wire that comes from the tach that I need to hook up to the tach wire on the ecu. Thanks for answering the other Q's though.
-
I have a 1992 loyale with a ej22 in it. I am trying to hook up the tach. I found the tach wire from the ecu but I dont know where to hook it up to make it work. Also, how do I hook up the other gauges to make them work? Currently the only gauges that work are voltage and fuel gauge. Thanks guys,
-
So both the battery and brake light flash on and off randomly all the time. Today the car lost all of its gauges and then it wouldnt run any faster then idle. I was stuck, and when it did die, the battery was dead. Put in a charged battery and it worked fine. So im curious, what would cause that? Is there a quick way to test if the alternator is charging? Also, why does the brake light flash with the battery light? They both go on and off at the same time flashing randomly. Thanks guys.
-
Just a few quick questions. For one, the brake warning light is on. I know it has awesome brakes, but I figure I should try to figure out why thats on. Brake fluid is up to where it should be. Next, how can I disconnect the stupid door buzzer? I was cleaning it out listening to music and the ding ding wouldnt stop. Other then that, its a great car. Thanks
-
Heres a few pics of the legacy.
-
I am getting a '96 legacy AWD from a friend of mine. He needed a work truck and I needed a daily driver, so Im trading my '68 chevy for his legacy. Few quick questions, How hard are front drive axles to replace? Also, it has a auto, im curious how much time and money it takes to do a 5 speed swap, possibly dual range as I had great luck with my old GL. Thanks guys.
-
For a "quick fix", get yourself some carb cleaner and read the instructions. If that doesn't work, rev the engine up to 2000-2500 rpm and put your hand over the carb(so no air can get in). This will try to suck your hand in and create a lot of vacuum. That vacuum should pull the crud out of the jets. If that does not work, you will have to take the carb apart.
-
Lets go wheelin!
:banana:I just need to fix the bent radius bar still. I found a donor car, just need to find a place to put it.
-
You could unplug the choke, and check for resistance. Take the leads on your tester, put one on the pin for power and one on ground, you should read very little resistance. If there is resistance, the choke is probably bad. The way the choke works is just a thermostat. When electricity flows through a piece of sprung metal in it, it heats up, expands, and opens up the choke. So check for resistance, and then voltage, If you have both, it should work.
-
Make sure there is voltage going to the choke. On my '83, a previous owner rewired the rad fans with the power to the choke wire. This left less power for the choke, and it didn't fully open. Mine idled at 1500 rpm until it was completely warmed up.
-
My old xt6 had a light bar on the front. Sometimes I caught myself driving on the road with the lights on. Believe me, those lights can be insanely bright, especially when you are driving towards them. I dont suggest running the lights on the front, they broke pretty quick on my xt6. It looked pretty neat though. Pic of XT6
-
I think you would be happy with a ea81 and the mods you listed above. You probably wont get 110 hp, but even if you got 90 or 95, that would be a night and day difference from the old worn out ea71.
-
So you are trying to get a 45% increase from an ea81? Good luck. Remember, just like any engine, the ea81 is a giant air pump, the more air and fuel you pump, the more power. Bigger cam, porting, higher compression, better carb, Etc.. I still don't know about getting that much out of an ea81. Let me know what you figure out, I want a 110hp ea81.
-
I'll do that tomorrow. Thanks Craig!
What's your wrenching experience?
in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
Posted · Edited by corvette6698512
Type of wrenching: Shadetree and maintenance
On what: mostly aircooled vw's, few subarus, old chevy's
How long: Since I got my first car 5 years ago
Other: Before autos, I had a big interest in rc cars(still do) I loved learning how they work. I have been going to school for auto for two years now and hoping to get ASE certified soon.