Kostamojen

Yes, the original horns were shell shaped and bolted in that spot.

Been busy while waiting for the heads... I think the tach location needs some work, but I'm not sure exactly what to do about it. Luckily the original speaker hole was EXACTLY the same size as this tach, so I just modified it a little and got it to fit in there rather well. The horns I built some simple brackets for (just thick sheet metal drilled with the right holes) and they fit good too. I actually saw a photo of a car in japan with horns installed like this too.

OK, good to know. Thanks Mark.

Mine are at the motor/machine shop right now getting done... If they fubar something though... I'd be SOL

Any of them have the exhaust ports on front/back of the head instead of the bottom?

Here are the EA62 heads I have: The EA61, EA63 and EA71 heads I've had apart have all had the same setup in terms of valve guides. (although the dual port EA62 and EA61's are reverse of course)

What is that?

What spare?

Whats interesting is that at some point the part number for the exhaust valve guides now supper-cedes to the intake valve guides... I'm not sure if thats a mistake on Subaru's part, or if you actually can use intake valve guides for the exhaust valves.

Don't know, thats what I've been trying to figure out.

Got some more stuff installed today...

The carb doesn't have an overflow pipe. I have seen other IDF's with overflows, but those were only ones that were equipped on specific vehicles from the factory. The carbs themselves aren't sold with them. Anyway, my crown jewel is ready to go, just waiting on cylinder heads to come back from the shop!

According to the '74 service manual, you have a vent on your fuel cap and just one hose to the intake with one little overflow bucket or something in the path. For some reason, my car has a "wagon" setup in terms of the ventilation. Although mine doesn't have the fuel cap vent, its actually a different fuel cap all together so its hard to find one (I didn't want to drill it for that reason).

Well, I did kind of an in-between job... basically the 3rd option I showed. One like to the carb with the pump/filter of course, no return. One vent line to one canister back to that little off-white dual thingy by the cap, but I put a screen on it and blocked off the 2nd part of the tube. And blocked off the 2nd vent tube on the tank. Think it will work?

Alright, I'm not quite certain what you are getting at, so I made a couple drawings to show the situation... I'm just not certain what to do, I don't want another engine fire thats for sure.

Sadly, there isn't any room to mount my pump down low. I mounted it near the stock location on the firewall as you can see in that last pic. Everyone says don't run a fuel pressure regulator with a weber, and especially not with the fuel pump I bought (specially made low-pressure pump for Webers). But I'm not sure if I should run a return line... For the Evap, where do you vent it to the atmosphere at? I presume the little white dohicky on the fuel cap area is the vent on this car??? Should there be some kind of filter or something there to keep fuel from squirting out all over my nice paint job?

Alright, here in lies my confusion with the fuel system... The service manual doesn't show this exact car for some reason. The sedan model shows only one little evap reservoir, while the wagon shows 2 like this coupe, but it doesn't show the same routing. I have no idea what these even do anyway, so I'm curious what I should do with them. Also the fuel tank has two tube connections for the evap/whatever. So I obviously have to run two lines to it somehow. I thought maybe use one as a return line? Also, the white double-tube plastic thing in the fuel cap area appears to be missing parts! When I cleaned it up, all it had was a spring inside but nothing holding it down??? I did manage to route the line from the tank to the fuel pump and put a temporary break-in filter there. Everything look fine to you guys?

Just got back my modified pickup-tube from Lewis Welding Works (In Roseville). They did an awesome job matching up the pickup tube from the 1400 to the 1100 so I can use the 1100 pan If anyone ever needs anything welded in the Sacramento area, this is the place to do it! They do all sorts of crazy stuff, even those half-length VW busses! Awesome old hot rod chassis in the shop getting worked on too. Good stuff.

Anyone have any advise on how to route the fuel lies? IE should I run a return line, should I use the factory evap setup, or should I do something simpler?

Looks like you need a dash and a column shifter surround more than anything. Gnarly looking rust hole on the rear... Otherwise looks pretty straight.

I found a welding shop to do the pickup tube for $20, so I'm all set Meanwhile I'm waiting for my cylinder heads to get fixed up at the engine shop, I started working on getting stuff ready... I also rebuild the master cylinder and some other brake bits and installed them:

Looks like it went through the Tsunami :-\

The problem with the 1400 (low) oil pan would be that its going to keep me from running the factory skid plate if I use it. It will be quite noticeable. Just rebuilt the master cylinder today... The kit I picked up awhile ago turned out to be 100% correct, worked perfect! Also got the throwout bearing on the transmission... Just waiting for my heads to get back from the shop next week and I can start re-assembling the motor for installation

Bout a quart. Not too worried about that though, the 1100 pan is nicely baffled.

The 1400/1600 pickup doesn't fit with the 1100 pan cause of the height difference. I basically need to take an inch or so off of the 1400 pickup to use the 1100 pan. The 1100 pan would also let me use the factory oil-separator device which could be nice. The 1400 pan will stick out from under the front of the car and be pretty obvious, so I'm trying not to use it.