Nubaru

I used a body pin fastner. The softer plastic seemed easier on the switch than a bolt or pennys. Non critical and cheap part anyway, just need something to plug the hole.

Well the same ol story here.. big dreams small wallet. The reasoning behind keeping the obd1 is to proffit from the old engine. then to buy the basics with that money. Exhaust, tmic, tune up, belts, general engine health what nots. So, i plan to go back to obd2 in the future, just dont have the cash to buy into it that far yet. I want to generaly keep it in shape for that time. Just want to run it till then. Thank you taking the time to give me a "what to expect" and a point down the path. I'm sure when it's in the yard, questions will be answered and raised. Edit- 5 min into reading about your forester and wow!

+1 to alt and battery, another thing to look at is the fusible link, (big wire connector in the underhood fuse box) i'v had some issues there, it may be getting weak. While the test is going on and the tester is on the car it will show the voltage on the system, i would have the parts guy look at it and see if there is a serious voltage drain while you hit the brakes, if it's any more than 1v you likely have a grounded wire on the way to the brake lights. just my 2c good luck with it.

So i sold my 78 dl wagon to buy a 94 legacy sport with a bad tranny. Engine has 113k on it, and the guy that has it is meticulious about caring for it. He has started it once a month since it was taken off the road. An accident caused the tranny trouble and the engine sounds pristine. No smoke, no overheating, clean oil.. pristine! Anyway i go pick it up next week when my truck guy gets back. The plan is 250-300 reliable HP in my 97 OBW 5mt. Off the bat i just plan on the straight swap. I have done my homework and am 99% set on the job. It will eventualy come back out to be resealed and upgraded, likely 20g heads and ecu or ej25 sohc heads and megasquirt. TD04 on the turbo. I want to keep my obd2 wires as much in place as possible. I am going to ditch the ac and likely use the holes in the firewall and space for the evap unit for stuffing the wires through and storing them. Since the ej22t will be obd1 at the start i want to have a temporary place for wiring so i can easily switch back to obd2. Still tinkering with the idea of how to phisicaly run the wiring keeping both. Open to ideas. On that note the actual wireing.. (ej25d ecu removed, wireing left in place) 11 wires to be connected between the harnesses. 1- Self shutoff (2v diode connected to 12V constant) 2- radiator fan (2 wires on obd2, single on obd1) connect all 3 or? 3- fuel pump relay (same relay, it will work) 4- Tach (mechanic friends tell me they are compatible) 5- starter 6- power supply x2 7- coolant temp sensor (same sensor) 8- neutral or park switch (not sure ) 9- ignition switch 10- backup power supply All other sensors and wires will be kept on obd1 harness and swaped, or just removed. Stuff from obd2 are useless on the obd1, fuel tank pressure ect..). maybe someone knows this.. Will the downpipe from the 22t connect right to the cat on the obw? I have looked at diagrams of both exhausts at work, but hard to tell. Curious if i'll have to take it to the exhaust shop. I have decided to just notch the crossmember, save some work. The fuel system matches. The throttle cables match. The obw has a new radiator in it and i am certain can keep the 22t cool. Same flywheel, starter, no other wierdness i know of.. So, this is my plan for the swap seems easy as pie. I appreciate any advice , usmb has always been the best source for info.

yea really no telling why there are 8. the conversion set came with 2 water pump gaskets for the different water pump set ups. Thanks for the advice and info!

guess i'll leave them off then. Probably no benefit to having them. I was thinking it was a problem fixer or something.. anyway intake stem seals only.. Thanks for the info!

So i'm in the process of refreshing an ea71 that desert subaru sold to me. It sat for a couple years so i got a fel-pro head and conversion set, full reseal. I'm in the process of laping the valves. So here's my question. There were no valve stem seals on the exhaust valves. My head set came with 8 stem seals. Would it hurt anything to put them on the exhaust valves? It seems like there will be enough room for the valve to work. But i would hate to get it reassembled to find out the rocker is pushing the keepers into that seal. Wouldent want to waste a head gasket. Also open to other tips on this job. As always thanks for advice!

Thought i would dig this up and post a little update picture. I want to make a vid soon.. but it's still incomplete, got some help from moosens to replace.. well the entire cooling system. That aside.. New 32/34 dgev weber, works very well! Even got a coment as to how my suby climbed right up a hill that my friends yugo would have to avoid.. lol It has a little lag from idle, but seems that this is common. It has an electronic disty, guess it came with the newer fatcase engine. So that's good news for me =D. Needed a new fuel pump for the weber. The old one couldent supply it, so i got a 30 gal/hr 4 psi one from o'riley and the weber is working very well. Shortly after the fuel pump was replaced my alternator died. Brushes were gone. So i found a brand new ultima alt for 30 bucks, oriley's again. Lifetime waranty and it's shiny and new! happy about it. I kept my egr, but welded it shut and rtv / gasketed the manifold. Removed all of the air suction system and the aav. Caped it all and i'm free of vac leaks. My pcv system is the wrong size tube, going to fix that when i get the new heater hose. I cleaned and painted my rocker covers. Also cleaned the rockers and checked the lash. Seemed a little off, but close.. would .008 be good for all? There was alot of gunk in there. All cleaned out, Still seems rattley though.. are they all this loud?.. stuff for the video i guess.. None the less except for no heater and a decent leak in the top of the radiator.. she pretty well screams now. Feels like 80-90 hp.. And there's this... 2" from the Y-pipe to a thrush glass pack, no cat, yea she's pretty loud. I usually make a quick turn if a cop is going to follow me up a hill lol. "Sounds like an airplane" =D Anyway that's what i have been up too.. after the radiator i'm going to finish up some body work, fix the last little leak in the cabin and get my hatch latch welded back on lol.. wireing, find another engine, ... it goes on forever i guess lol I have grown very attached to it and view it as a rare and awesome old car (i get alot of comments!) and most of all it's been a great teacher. I have learned so much from it and am motivated to learn even more.. For instance.. My girlfriends sister overheated a chevy 2.2 ecotec and burned the rings. i Took it appart in minutes and comfirmed my diagnosis. Overheat, burnt oil on 3 spark plugs, and about 1/4 inch thick on top of the piston, no milkshake.. rings are bad end of 2.2 ecotec.. dont even need a compression test to know there's no squish.. Anyway.. i find one on ebay for 650 and it's in discussion for me to replace it... And i'm confident i can do it! Just like to thank the people of this board, google, and my crappy little subaru for teaching me something useful.. Anyway.. i really want to make a video and show it off =D

Seems like the neon rad is too much to fool with for the time i have. Just going with the original. I'll take you up on that moosens. PM sent, thanks a ton!

So i need a raidiator.. pretty sure it's the last thing i havent replaced.. lol Anyway, it's kinda tough finding one from the local autoparts store, found one but it's 180, and these real old subarus are impossible to find in junkyards. The big question i have is.. Are there any other radiators that will bolt in, always looking for a cheap option. I did see some oe replacement ones on ebay, but ther are around 140, cheaper.. but i just got a new weber and this car keeps me broke On a side note.. i have this neon with a dead engine..it has a good radiator, but it's the modern res tank type.. looks similar as far as in / out hoses, and size.. but it has alot more components.. anyway.. if i strip all that out of the neon and fab it into my subaru, could i use it? more detail on that later, if it's possible.. Thanks as always for the help!

Hi nice to see another local! There's not too many posters from va. I live in Marion,3 or so hours south of ya. I have an older 79 DL 4x4 and a 04 wrx. The wagon cost me 300 and i'm about 900 more into it.. finally it's a rolling project lol.. So you all but stole that loyale lol. Super cool too, i want one of these in the near future so i can take the 79 off the road for some body work. Anyway, Welcome to usmb, if there's anything i can do for ya from my side of the state send me a PM. Picking up a part from craigslist or whatever.. always willing to help, i have recived alot from the other members of this board.

buying the weber tomorrow.. simplicity being my goal.. i just need to get it.. I tried that V, it helped, but still runs aweful.. dunno why, but it's still rich and that hitachi's fault.. weber it is thanks for the help

So yea you guys are right, it was top on my list of what was happening, But as to why and what to do? end all beat all, i'm going to buy a weber.. but it's 6 months away if i can at all wait.. After Clutch, painting, fiberglass bondoing some holes, rewireing 1/2 the car, oil pan gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, y-pipe back exhaust, geting and installing the current carb (worth every penny of 20 bucks thanks 84gl, but i see why you ditched it for efi lol), geting the tires fixed, new air cleaner, rehoseing the pcv system (it's still not the right size), unbroken tail light lenses (thanks shawnw!), brake calipers, tie rod ends, vac leaks, egr removal ... i'm wearing thin in the rump roast pocket region and honestly time.. there's still this heater core issue and it's geting cold.. but that's another issue and thread.. So here it goes.. info on if there could be a quick, non rebuild answer to my trouble.. Honestly i'm an amature mechanic and i would have to pay for a rebuild, and i dont even know if my dist advance is hooked up right, i go for bare minimum under the hood, but want to make sure the carbs critical vacs are hooked up.. may be the issue.. (1) current dist advance hookup, dont know if this is right, i have moved it around, but hard to tell a difference in 3 of the ports. I think it's purpose is to triger the power valve, but i know it's important and goes on there somewhere. (2) caped, i think these 2 were for an ecu system, vac switches hooked to sensors.. (3) Idle mixture adjustment.. clockwise rich, ccw lean, correct? Start 2.5 turns out? float window at idle (1) dist advance acts the same on these 2, no idea what they are for if not power valve. (2) my car has no fuel return, the carb does, so i crimped and caped it. Could my fuel pump be overloading the float because of this? fuel pump is stock on stock circuit. (3) Switch vent solenoid valve, was caped when i got it.. has a wire that isnt hooked to anything.. i'm thinking it's useless.. but.. let me know lol i changed both fuel filters today, 2nd time this week. And this crap keeps coming out.. I used seafoam pretty thick in the last full tank, and it's on fresh gas now..back to the float and valve sticking, if any of this got into the carb.. The timing is impossible to set like this.. i'm just puting off geting a light till i know the carb isnt screwed.. It is crackling in the exhaust now also and it is alot louder than before.. i removed the AAV (anti-afterburner valve) but it's emissions crap and counters condensation of gas in the manifold.. In GD's post about hitachi's and emissions he says useless.. so i'm buyin.. and i will blame the exhaust combustion on the flooding for whatever reason.. Other thoguhts.. 1800 carb, 1600 engine? jeting work properly? The whole thing is.. after i got the emissions striped and all of the vac leaks sealed off.. this thing ran like a dream.. it had power, it's exhaust was low bass growl just like i wanted from it.. felt like a new car.. but then something happend in that damn hitachi.. now i have it barely running again and i guess i just took 45 min on this writeup for comfirmation to buy a webber... done with the wall of text.. if i have options to get this thing runing correctly with out spending $300 i am all for it.. but if i dont want to spend any more on this one.

I have a 1979 Dl wagon i have been working on for a couple months. Through help from USMB members both informational and help with parts, it's running and street legal. Well untill last night.. Short history, Got the car as a rusted heap roting under a tree for near 2 years. I have posted in the historic formus, but i'm close to 1980 and have a fatcase ea71, and a hitachi 2b carb off a 84 ea81. and there is alot more traffic here i think. I have removed or sealed off all of the emissions systems, Kept the erg valve and pipe but welded the valve inside it shut so it is sealed. Air suction and anti afterburner are removed.. The crimped and rtv'd air suction stubs may leak a tiny bit.. but other than that my vac leaks are sealed.. I have a new 2" exhaust from the y pipe back also. No cat to clog.. So here is what happend... I got all of this complete last night and the car ran like never before! Really great.. had much more power and i was really excited!... I knew my timing was a little off, but it's had the vac leaks.. and this was just a test run with all the holes pluged.. i hit 5k rpm's a couple times.. So, i get to my turn around and backing up it bogs out.. bogs out all the way back.. I get home and try to mess with the timing and idle mixture.. no good.. It bogs in neutral trying to gain rpm's.. has almost no power.. pops and wil not idle below 2k rpms now.. and when it does idle at 2k.. it slowly dies.. and no ammount of throttle will help it.. i have black smoke from the back also.. I thought blown HG? but no milkshake in either oil or coolant.. it's hard to tell if i lose coolant cause i have a little leak in the top of the radiator that's on the list to get fixed.. and head gaskets dont usually make a car run horrible do they? It seems to me like it is runing very rich.. but why would it go from running the best ever.. to the worst since i have had it running.. i'll get some pics up later today of my exact setup. Such a dissapointment, 2 months of work, $300 car and $500 parts and it falls apart right when it ran best... Any advice is much appreciated..