Nubaru

I used a body pin fastner. The softer plastic seemed easier on the switch than a bolt or pennys. Non critical and cheap part anyway, just need something to plug the hole.

Well the same ol story here.. big dreams small wallet. The reasoning behind keeping the obd1 is to proffit from the old engine. then to buy the basics with that money. Exhaust, tmic, tune up, belts, general engine health what nots. So, i plan to go back to obd2 in the future, just dont have the cash to buy into it that far yet. I want to generaly keep it in shape for that time. Just want to run it till then. Thank you taking the time to give me a "what to expect" and a point down the path. I'm sure when it's in the yard, questions will be answered and raised. Edit- 5 min into reading about your forester and wow!

+1 to alt and battery, another thing to look at is the fusible link, (big wire connector in the underhood fuse box) i'v had some issues there, it may be getting weak. While the test is going on and the tester is on the car it will show the voltage on the system, i would have the parts guy look at it and see if there is a serious voltage drain while you hit the brakes, if it's any more than 1v you likely have a grounded wire on the way to the brake lights. just my 2c good luck with it.

So i sold my 78 dl wagon to buy a 94 legacy sport with a bad tranny. Engine has 113k on it, and the guy that has it is meticulious about caring for it. He has started it once a month since it was taken off the road. An accident caused the tranny trouble and the engine sounds pristine. No smoke, no overheating, clean oil.. pristine! Anyway i go pick it up next week when my truck guy gets back. The plan is 250-300 reliable HP in my 97 OBW 5mt. Off the bat i just plan on the straight swap. I have done my homework and am 99% set on the job. It will eventualy come back out to be resealed and upgraded, likely 20g heads and ecu or ej25 sohc heads and megasquirt. TD04 on the turbo. I want to keep my obd2 wires as much in place as possible. I am going to ditch the ac and likely use the holes in the firewall and space for the evap unit for stuffing the wires through and storing them. Since the ej22t will be obd1 at the start i want to have a temporary place for wiring so i can easily switch back to obd2. Still tinkering with the idea of how to phisicaly run the wiring keeping both. Open to ideas. On that note the actual wireing.. (ej25d ecu removed, wireing left in place) 11 wires to be connected between the harnesses. 1- Self shutoff (2v diode connected to 12V constant) 2- radiator fan (2 wires on obd2, single on obd1) connect all 3 or? 3- fuel pump relay (same relay, it will work) 4- Tach (mechanic friends tell me they are compatible) 5- starter 6- power supply x2 7- coolant temp sensor (same sensor) 8- neutral or park switch (not sure ) 9- ignition switch 10- backup power supply All other sensors and wires will be kept on obd1 harness and swaped, or just removed. Stuff from obd2 are useless on the obd1, fuel tank pressure ect..). maybe someone knows this.. Will the downpipe from the 22t connect right to the cat on the obw? I have looked at diagrams of both exhausts at work, but hard to tell. Curious if i'll have to take it to the exhaust shop. I have decided to just notch the crossmember, save some work. The fuel system matches. The throttle cables match. The obw has a new radiator in it and i am certain can keep the 22t cool. Same flywheel, starter, no other wierdness i know of.. So, this is my plan for the swap seems easy as pie. I appreciate any advice , usmb has always been the best source for info.

yea really no telling why there are 8. the conversion set came with 2 water pump gaskets for the different water pump set ups. Thanks for the advice and info!

guess i'll leave them off then. Probably no benefit to having them. I was thinking it was a problem fixer or something.. anyway intake stem seals only.. Thanks for the info!

So i'm in the process of refreshing an ea71 that desert subaru sold to me. It sat for a couple years so i got a fel-pro head and conversion set, full reseal. I'm in the process of laping the valves. So here's my question. There were no valve stem seals on the exhaust valves. My head set came with 8 stem seals. Would it hurt anything to put them on the exhaust valves? It seems like there will be enough room for the valve to work. But i would hate to get it reassembled to find out the rocker is pushing the keepers into that seal. Wouldent want to waste a head gasket. Also open to other tips on this job. As always thanks for advice!

Thought i would dig this up and post a little update picture. I want to make a vid soon.. but it's still incomplete, got some help from moosens to replace.. well the entire cooling system. That aside.. New 32/34 dgev weber, works very well! Even got a coment as to how my suby climbed right up a hill that my friends yugo would have to avoid.. lol It has a little lag from idle, but seems that this is common. It has an electronic disty, guess it came with the newer fatcase engine. So that's good news for me =D. Needed a new fuel pump for the weber. The old one couldent supply it, so i got a 30 gal/hr 4 psi one from o'riley and the weber is working very well. Shortly after the fuel pump was replaced my alternator died. Brushes were gone. So i found a brand new ultima alt for 30 bucks, oriley's again. Lifetime waranty and it's shiny and new! happy about it. I kept my egr, but welded it shut and rtv / gasketed the manifold. Removed all of the air suction system and the aav. Caped it all and i'm free of vac leaks. My pcv system is the wrong size tube, going to fix that when i get the new heater hose. I cleaned and painted my rocker covers. Also cleaned the rockers and checked the lash. Seemed a little off, but close.. would .008 be good for all? There was alot of gunk in there. All cleaned out, Still seems rattley though.. are they all this loud?.. stuff for the video i guess.. None the less except for no heater and a decent leak in the top of the radiator.. she pretty well screams now. Feels like 80-90 hp.. And there's this... 2" from the Y-pipe to a thrush glass pack, no cat, yea she's pretty loud. I usually make a quick turn if a cop is going to follow me up a hill lol. "Sounds like an airplane" =D Anyway that's what i have been up too.. after the radiator i'm going to finish up some body work, fix the last little leak in the cabin and get my hatch latch welded back on lol.. wireing, find another engine, ... it goes on forever i guess lol I have grown very attached to it and view it as a rare and awesome old car (i get alot of comments!) and most of all it's been a great teacher. I have learned so much from it and am motivated to learn even more.. For instance.. My girlfriends sister overheated a chevy 2.2 ecotec and burned the rings. i Took it appart in minutes and comfirmed my diagnosis. Overheat, burnt oil on 3 spark plugs, and about 1/4 inch thick on top of the piston, no milkshake.. rings are bad end of 2.2 ecotec.. dont even need a compression test to know there's no squish.. Anyway.. i find one on ebay for 650 and it's in discussion for me to replace it... And i'm confident i can do it! Just like to thank the people of this board, google, and my crappy little subaru for teaching me something useful.. Anyway.. i really want to make a video and show it off =D

Seems like the neon rad is too much to fool with for the time i have. Just going with the original. I'll take you up on that moosens. PM sent, thanks a ton!

So i need a raidiator.. pretty sure it's the last thing i havent replaced.. lol Anyway, it's kinda tough finding one from the local autoparts store, found one but it's 180, and these real old subarus are impossible to find in junkyards. The big question i have is.. Are there any other radiators that will bolt in, always looking for a cheap option. I did see some oe replacement ones on ebay, but ther are around 140, cheaper.. but i just got a new weber and this car keeps me broke On a side note.. i have this neon with a dead engine..it has a good radiator, but it's the modern res tank type.. looks similar as far as in / out hoses, and size.. but it has alot more components.. anyway.. if i strip all that out of the neon and fab it into my subaru, could i use it? more detail on that later, if it's possible.. Thanks as always for the help!

Hi nice to see another local! There's not too many posters from va. I live in Marion,3 or so hours south of ya. I have an older 79 DL 4x4 and a 04 wrx. The wagon cost me 300 and i'm about 900 more into it.. finally it's a rolling project lol.. So you all but stole that loyale lol. Super cool too, i want one of these in the near future so i can take the 79 off the road for some body work. Anyway, Welcome to usmb, if there's anything i can do for ya from my side of the state send me a PM. Picking up a part from craigslist or whatever.. always willing to help, i have recived alot from the other members of this board.

buying the weber tomorrow.. simplicity being my goal.. i just need to get it.. I tried that V, it helped, but still runs aweful.. dunno why, but it's still rich and that hitachi's fault.. weber it is thanks for the help

So yea you guys are right, it was top on my list of what was happening, But as to why and what to do? end all beat all, i'm going to buy a weber.. but it's 6 months away if i can at all wait.. After Clutch, painting, fiberglass bondoing some holes, rewireing 1/2 the car, oil pan gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, y-pipe back exhaust, geting and installing the current carb (worth every penny of 20 bucks thanks 84gl, but i see why you ditched it for efi lol), geting the tires fixed, new air cleaner, rehoseing the pcv system (it's still not the right size), unbroken tail light lenses (thanks shawnw!), brake calipers, tie rod ends, vac leaks, egr removal ... i'm wearing thin in the rump roast pocket region and honestly time.. there's still this heater core issue and it's geting cold.. but that's another issue and thread.. So here it goes.. info on if there could be a quick, non rebuild answer to my trouble.. Honestly i'm an amature mechanic and i would have to pay for a rebuild, and i dont even know if my dist advance is hooked up right, i go for bare minimum under the hood, but want to make sure the carbs critical vacs are hooked up.. may be the issue.. (1) current dist advance hookup, dont know if this is right, i have moved it around, but hard to tell a difference in 3 of the ports. I think it's purpose is to triger the power valve, but i know it's important and goes on there somewhere. (2) caped, i think these 2 were for an ecu system, vac switches hooked to sensors.. (3) Idle mixture adjustment.. clockwise rich, ccw lean, correct? Start 2.5 turns out? float window at idle (1) dist advance acts the same on these 2, no idea what they are for if not power valve. (2) my car has no fuel return, the carb does, so i crimped and caped it. Could my fuel pump be overloading the float because of this? fuel pump is stock on stock circuit. (3) Switch vent solenoid valve, was caped when i got it.. has a wire that isnt hooked to anything.. i'm thinking it's useless.. but.. let me know lol i changed both fuel filters today, 2nd time this week. And this crap keeps coming out.. I used seafoam pretty thick in the last full tank, and it's on fresh gas now..back to the float and valve sticking, if any of this got into the carb.. The timing is impossible to set like this.. i'm just puting off geting a light till i know the carb isnt screwed.. It is crackling in the exhaust now also and it is alot louder than before.. i removed the AAV (anti-afterburner valve) but it's emissions crap and counters condensation of gas in the manifold.. In GD's post about hitachi's and emissions he says useless.. so i'm buyin.. and i will blame the exhaust combustion on the flooding for whatever reason.. Other thoguhts.. 1800 carb, 1600 engine? jeting work properly? The whole thing is.. after i got the emissions striped and all of the vac leaks sealed off.. this thing ran like a dream.. it had power, it's exhaust was low bass growl just like i wanted from it.. felt like a new car.. but then something happend in that damn hitachi.. now i have it barely running again and i guess i just took 45 min on this writeup for comfirmation to buy a webber... done with the wall of text.. if i have options to get this thing runing correctly with out spending $300 i am all for it.. but if i dont want to spend any more on this one.

I have a 1979 Dl wagon i have been working on for a couple months. Through help from USMB members both informational and help with parts, it's running and street legal. Well untill last night.. Short history, Got the car as a rusted heap roting under a tree for near 2 years. I have posted in the historic formus, but i'm close to 1980 and have a fatcase ea71, and a hitachi 2b carb off a 84 ea81. and there is alot more traffic here i think. I have removed or sealed off all of the emissions systems, Kept the erg valve and pipe but welded the valve inside it shut so it is sealed. Air suction and anti afterburner are removed.. The crimped and rtv'd air suction stubs may leak a tiny bit.. but other than that my vac leaks are sealed.. I have a new 2" exhaust from the y pipe back also. No cat to clog.. So here is what happend... I got all of this complete last night and the car ran like never before! Really great.. had much more power and i was really excited!... I knew my timing was a little off, but it's had the vac leaks.. and this was just a test run with all the holes pluged.. i hit 5k rpm's a couple times.. So, i get to my turn around and backing up it bogs out.. bogs out all the way back.. I get home and try to mess with the timing and idle mixture.. no good.. It bogs in neutral trying to gain rpm's.. has almost no power.. pops and wil not idle below 2k rpms now.. and when it does idle at 2k.. it slowly dies.. and no ammount of throttle will help it.. i have black smoke from the back also.. I thought blown HG? but no milkshake in either oil or coolant.. it's hard to tell if i lose coolant cause i have a little leak in the top of the radiator that's on the list to get fixed.. and head gaskets dont usually make a car run horrible do they? It seems to me like it is runing very rich.. but why would it go from running the best ever.. to the worst since i have had it running.. i'll get some pics up later today of my exact setup. Such a dissapointment, 2 months of work, $300 car and $500 parts and it falls apart right when it ran best... Any advice is much appreciated..

Had a couple days off in a row so i put some hours into it. Alot of worksite cleanup today :/ working out of the hatch can get a bit messy lol. Anyway, i finished all but the front driver wheel wells and wheels yesterday. Turned out well for just cleaning and painting, sanding down the rusty spots. So my cosmetic work and fiberglass work is all but finished. Floating ideas where to put the rest of the red in.. roof stripe or.. stripes? Anyway here she sits as she'll look when she drives. The stripe turned out great, have 1 little spot to sand and paint again. But it brings the car alive! My nephews both gasped when i shut the hood and showed them for the first time lol. Today, i pulled the engine again for the clutch i get tomorrow, And some other things i want to deal with. Who needs an engine stand? lol The things on my mind are.. 1. My rear main seal (i think) is leaking, the seal around the crank shaft right behind the flywheel. It is likely influenced by the hoses from the valve covers not being connected to my air cleaner. I'm recently understanding why this is so important. Cause it gushes oil out of random seals when the pressure isnt right. So, is that why it's leaking? will it go away with propper pressure? and if not.. can i live with it for a while or should i replace it now? I mean.. it takes like 30 min to pull the engine and get to it again. So with that being said, i need to know the general essentials about the remaining pressure hoses.. What can i still ditch and what do i keep? so on to.. 2. The quarter trick again.. i did the "can lid" erg valve removal. This is the pipe i dont need without my egr valve? If that's correct, i dont think a quater will fit in there. If i'm after the right pipe, i can find something to fit and seal both ends.. But i'm a freaking noob and i want to remove all the crap, but want to keep what i need.. just dont want to mess anything up :/ So.. Hopefully it's cruising with farm use tags by this weekend. As always thanks for any advice!

awesome, thanks for the reply hatch. Sometimes it's hard to find a straight answer searching.

I found a set of new calipers from advance auto. 42.50 each. Decided to go that route. Funny story, they ordered the part for me, supposed to be right caliper, Box said right caliper.. but it had a left in the box. I asked them to hold on to that one for me, because i will eventually want both new. But.. there's no part number for the driver side caliper.. it dosent exist in the computer.. but there it is in the box. lol.. So i'm thinking.. who cares about the missmatched part and the waranty involved. I asked them to continue to hold it for me. I got the correct one the next day and put it on last night, did a little cleaning and rustoliuming while i was there too. Other than that i'v been rewireing alot of the car, Headlights, radiator fan, and horn(not fully finished here). I have the floor fixed and the entire front floorboard coated in bedliner. Still a bit of a leak inside the car tho. working on it. Turned out pretty good i think. I plan on ditching these wheels soon, so didnt spend much time sanding them. Going to clean the wheel wells and do some more painting tonight. Shawnw and i are working on undamaged tail lights and i found a clutch from autozone for 30 bucks. **important question** I can install the new clutch without an alignment tool by.. Removeing old clutch and pressure plate. Install new and only hand tighten the bolts holding the plate on. Then i can reinstall the engine. With the starter off i can see the bolts and finish tightening them. Every other one, and evenly, untill they are all at 20ft lbs torq? Do i have this right? Anyway.. that's what's going on. It's been Hard to decide what to do check for check when it needed so much.. And so much less now. Thanks for looking and all the help!

Paint job is almost done.. few touch ups and some more fiberglass.. still need to do the undercoating.. but it's looking better than the baby blue prime job it had i think.. =D the hood is poped, not bent btw lol back to mechanical stuff soon..

That is a great reason. I lived in new mexico for a couple years back in the 90's. The cars just never die there. On that note the DMV laws were.. well all but non existant, in VA.. not aweful, but fiarly strict.. you just dont see the same occasional mad max style car. So it was alot of fun in my late teens. Another thing.. BLM, the millions of acres owned by the government of nothing but rock and sand.. and roads.. and roads.. No one cares.. drive all over them.. or that's how it was. In this area.. i had a Honda XR600 that i brought back from NM with me. It sat.. and sat.. till i sold it. Noone lets you ride / wheel.. and what little you can, gets boreing fast. Dont even want to talk about getting cought in national forest, where u arent supposed to be. NM was wheeling heaven. So clunkers never rot and the law isnt breathing down your neck.. West >> east.. from my experience and taste.. Rednecks are good and bad, like all people.. Trust in the fact there's pecker heads covering 3/4 of the planet.

So the saga continues.. Going to get paypal next pay check, so i can get those tail lights from shawnw and the calipers from subaru3. If you guys read this please hold them for me =D I spent 30 bucks on some fiberglass, rustolium and related stuff. And got to work on pluging the holes. I didnt have much love for sanding fiberglass so i just smothed it out a bit. I plan on useing undercoating across the spare tire shelf to reinsure waterprofing. But the largest of my rust damage is gone. in the wheel well.. used some fiberglass cloth for alot too.. solid as a rock.. maybe too solid 0.o.. hope it dosent flex alot. top side.. The tire rack.. was alot of holes everywhere on that shelf.. Have 1/2 of it painted and sanded / rust treated.. been hard at it.. Sorry i'm still sporting the cell phone, but something is better than not eh? .. working like a dog to save an old scoob =D

I have a 79 1600 wagon i am trying to get on the road. And i am.. i'll say a novice mechanic. My oil pan gasket was a gusher. I looked into other options besides pulling the motor. It seemed like a great deal of work at first glance. But when i got into the job, it happens fast. I unbolted the exhaust manifold 1st, Marked my hoses and wires, that were even hooked up (my car was a mess when i got). Removed the radiator and alternator, then removed the engine mounts and bell housing bolts. Pulled the engine with a tractor boom, though it could easily be done with 2 men, one on each side, as moosens said. The reasons i went for pulling the engine. The back of the oil pan sitting on the crossmember would make it a real PITA. If i went to the trouble to make it accessable, then i'm 3/4 of the way to an engine pull anyway. Plus, i didnt want to lay in that oil mess while makeing the repairs. So after that long winded response. I vote pulling the engine is the way to go, it's easy, and i had a blast doing it. Good luck!

While i'm playing with the cell phone.. The first pic of the shagin wagon And honestly most of my day was spent spit shineing. Just did an oil change, so she's lookin and feelin good. Have a spark plug job on this one in a couple thousand miles. Bed time i guess, i appreciate the economic options to my problems. Great community for a great hobby. I'm want usmb stickers for both cars lol =D

sent a pm to shawn. Good tip biff, i hope he still has a pair.. my driver one is shot, and the pass one is damaged but useable.. rather just have a new pair.