captainkettel

Has anyone ever loosen the motor mounts and jacked up the motor on a 98 Outback to gain better access for removing and replacing the spark plugs? Seems like it might be easier than using 14 extensions and wobblies to get those suckers out. What do ya think?

Are the fenders off a 1979 Wagon the same size and fit as that of the Brat? I was told that the two were interchangeable. I have located a pair of Brat fenders but need fenders for my DL wagon.

I pulled my sensor out of the front right wheel. I know the ring is good because I just replaced a new hub assembly. Really bad front bearing! I drove it a little too long. So looking at the sensor I see that is wore in the center. Looks like the bad bearing allowed the hub movement to damage the sensor. Big scratch near the center. So I'm looking to go to the wrecking yard. How hard is it to remove the sensor ( Iv'e already done that) and all the attached wiring? Looks like the wires go to a junction area in the wheel well? Thanks for any help or suggestions...captainkettel...

I have a steady CEL on my 1998 Legacy OB wagon. I have checked the code and it is a PO325. I would like to check my sensor connections but don't really know where to look. Could someone tell or show in a photo where this plugs in? On another post someone said that knock sensor plugs in at the firewall? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks...

Can anyone tell me where the #6 terminal is located? Would like to re-set the light after a wheel bearing and hub was replaced. Light came on after that. So I would like to start with the light. Next I will make sure the ABS sensor is clean. Then who knows. Thanks...

I hate to be picky, but. I fireman is the guy who shovels coal into a steam engine on a train! A "FireFighter" is the person who risks their life everyday to save your Life, Home, and Property... But a Subaru is still a Subaru. Unless it's MY subaru. Then it's well, my little Subaruski!...Keep 'em running...Drive 'em proud...

It should take two (2) bushings. They are easy to get at by lifting up the shifter boot. The bushings go in the shifter shaft itself. A bolt goes thru them and they fill up the movement in the shifter. There is like a little three sided flange the shifter shaft is bolted to which allows for back and forth movement. To engage and disengage the 4X4. Really easy to fix. Bushings do wear out, cuz the're plastic. They will only fit in one way. Round side in and lip side out. Good luck...

The problem is in your faulty alternator! If the alternator is NOT working your fuel pump will only work for a second or two! Had the same problem about 10 years ago on a 1979 4X4 wagon I had. Hard wired the fuel pump and it would run forever. Problem is that's not good for the fuel pump. When you turn on the ignition the fuel pump is energized. Then when no juice comes from the alternator and you run out of that little burst of fuel, the motor dies. Replace your alternator and your problem will be solved.

I'm I reading this right...? If you take the wire off the thermal switch. Using the battery, ground the wire out. If the fan turns on then the switch or ground is bad? If that the case I must have a bad switch. Cuz my fan turns on!

Does anyone know of a trick to get the oil pump off. Have everything loose and the oil pump shaft is sticking in the cam. Removed all 4 bolts and can wiggle the pump up and down (shaft turning) but can't seem to break her loose. Though I might use a slide hammer with a small nylon strap around the pump and oil filter assembly. Unless some has a tip for me. Any help out there? This is on a 1978 EA71 1600 motor. Checked in my factory manual but they don't mention anything about the pump possibably sticking. Thanks...Dennis...

Looking to buy the complete hood release cable from inside to latch, for a 1978 Coupe. Thanks!

I drove my 1979 Subaru 4X4 wagon from Sequim Washington to Anchorage Alaska in 1995. Took right at 3 days. The trip was about 2100 miles. Averaged a little over 700 miles a day! That was in june. Some road work was being done and some roads were gravel. Only thing I used was two quarts of oil and gas. Did rock chip a headlight. Still have the car in Anchor Point, AK.

First 1979 4X4 DLWagon: New 08/79 lost to X-wife 07/86 1979 4X4 DL wagon: used 09/89...still have parked in Alaska 8 more 1979 4X4 wagons all in 1996-97...sold all in 1999-2000 1998 Outback: purchased 2002...still have 1978 4X4 GL wagon: 05/05...still have 1978 FWD Coupe: 09/05...still have Guess I have had a bunch of subies! Still got a thing for a good lookin' 79' 4X4 wagon...Would like to find one in showroom condition! I'd buy her in a second.

Soobme, sent you a PM with more info! Get back to me if you want photos...Dennis...

I have a 1978 4X4 wagon. The rear drive axles DO have u-joints. Lucky for me I have a spare set. Had to change one out a little while back. They are splined on one end and have a 4 bolt plate on the other end. If you would like I have taken a few photos for you to view. I can send the pictures via email. The splined end has a bolt in the center that holds the splines in place.The splines go into the rear pumpkin and the 4 bolt plate bolts to the rear inside wheel. Really quite an easy fix, although I didn't change the u-joint.

With the engine at normal operating temp, it is running at a constant 25 psi. That was going up and down hills, on a flat and cruzing at 50mph. Even at 25mph in 3rd gear it was still 23-25 psi. Lugging it a bit to see how much drop I would get. Do you think it would increase if I put a new oil pump in it? Or just the usual bearing problem on a slightly worn engine? I've got good power and no smoke, doesn't use ANY oil. Maybe I'll switch to racing 40# and see what happens.

The 1600 engine in the 1978 wagon has low oil pressure when it warms up. The light started to flicker at a very low idle. The book said it will do that if the oil pressure gets down to about 2.8 psi. I relaced the sender with a mechanical gauge and when cold I have around 50 psi oil pressure! When it gets warm it drops to about 5 psi. I'm using 20-50 castrol oil. Any ideas on how to raise the pressure? Or should I not worry about it? The motor has NO ticking or off sounds. As a matter of fact, this is the quietest 1600 motor I have ever had. What do you all think? Thanks...Dennis...

Has anyone done any work on fixing the "slop" in their shifter play. This is in a 1978 4X4 wagon. It has the standard 4 speed manual transmission. On the top end shifter play you can engage 1st gear and make a circle about the size of a dinner plate! And it is still in gear! I have replaced the nylon bushings before in a previous shifter. I know this will help, but has anyone REALLY fixed the shifter play. If so, any tips? It would be so nice to eliminate most of the un-needed movement. Thanks...Dennis...

I'm looking for a hub cap for my 1978 FWD Coupe. Have three but am in need of one to fill out the set. Have included a photo in case there were different styles. Check out my Photo Gallery for a look at my Subarus and the Hub Cap I'm in need of. Any luck out there?.Thanks...captainkettel...

Anybody looking for a 1979 Brat? There is one on Ebay that needs a new home. Seller is located in Oregon. Don't know if they use this forum. Might take a look if your interested. Ebay item:4576798602

Does anyone know where hi-performance parts and maybe some tricks can be had for a EA71 motor? Or is it even worth bothering with? Thanks...Dennis...

Update...When you buy something someone else has tried to fix look for any and everything! Found the problem. When the guy (doesn't know much about subaru's) put new points in he really screwed up. He took the nylon bushing off the outside of the distributor and put the condenser on.The condenser lead and spade for the power goes on the outside of the nylon bushing. Not in contact with the distributor. The spade that the power plugs into was grounded on the distributor. Sooo NO SPARK! Found that, changed the setup, and away we go! This 1978 DL two door runs very strong. The EPA mileage listing said it should get like 41mpg highway and 32mpg in town. Not sure if I'm still going to put the motor in my 78' 4x4 wagon or keep the little DL as another subaru added to the fleet.

Just bought another subaru. It's a 1978 Subaru 2 door coup. Front wheel drive. Guy I bought it from sold it cheap cause it was running rough. He put new points,condenser,cap and rotor in it. Also a new coil. Now there is NO SPARK! Checked it out and he had the coil leads all messed up. Got all the correct wires on the right places but still NO SPARK. Points look good and condenser is new also. Going to check the power to the coil and make sure I have power there. Anyone ever had any problems or can tell me where the fusible link is located. Any help would be great! Thanks...Dennis...

Who or what is "Wursts" where you got your timeserts? Do the have website? Thanks...Dennis...

Can I get some more info on "timeserts"? Anyone tell me where I can find a kit? How about costs and whether they did the trick for you. Thanks...