mtskibum16

Thanks for the replies guys! Just FYI, I do have the charcoal canister in the engine compartment. IIRC, I had 2 vacuum lines going to the passenger side fender (is that some sort of solenoid or what?) but I can't be sure off the top of my head. Well cool, looks like I might get this thing going this weekend! As for who gave me the advise, it was my stepdad who is a body man and specializes in Subarus but generally stays away from mechanics if possible. I got the engine from a car he had. He works closely with the local suby mechanic guru on some jobs and was thinking he had heard that but wasn't really sure. Anyways, that's why I wanted to double check. Also, I know I have read about the possible issues of the engine not mating properly in the torque converter and wanted to know what I should watch for and how to verify that I'm good. I remember people saying that if the engine doesn't seem like it wants to seat that last 1/4" or so and butt up properly to the tranny there is a misalignment and to not just crank it down at that point. So what's the fix/check to see if you have it? Turn the engine over slighlty to get proper alignment? Anything else irregular to watch for? Thanks again!

Thanks for the response. However, I don't need help with what to replace on the engine as it's ready to drop in. I'm specifically looking for information on whether the intake manifold needs to be switched or not.

So I have a 97 OB that needed a new motor. I purchased a good running motor from a 96 OB. I replaced the water pump and did a timing belt on the donor motor and was getting ready to put it in the 97. I had heard from someone to swap the intake manifolds so that the manifold from the car stays in the car as sometimes there are sensor differences, etc. Is this necessary in this case or can I just drop the 96 motor in with the 96 intake on there? It's not a big deal to swap them but I figure I'd rather not do it if I don't have to. Thoughts? Anything else I should watch for as I put the 96 engine back in and hook everything up? Thanks guys and gals!

Both good points Gsir08 and grossgary. Doesn't help me much though since they're both good points I won't be able to get info from the previous owner I don't think. I guess since I'm planning to sell it I'm not looking for the way to get the best possible engine, but rather to make the most money with the least time/headache spent while still delivering a reasonably reliable vehichle to the next guy. As was brought up previously, it wouldn't be any different selling it with the other motor in there for the buyer than buying any other used Outback with similar mileage. I guess I'll have to look in to what all I'd need to buy inorder to do the head swap (gaskets, bolts, seals, etc) and compare that price plus heads to the price of the used motor. hmmm....

Strange...there's only like 5 in there. ??? So, swap head(s) or swap engine? The engine is coming out either way. $500 for an engine that ran well when the car was wrecked. What, $300 for heads probably? Opinions? Seems like the engine swap might be easier but it's pretty close I guess.

Interesting....never knew. Learn something every day Question: Since the 96 needs premium and the 97 doesn't, can you use the 96 engine with the 97 ecu? Was it the tuning of the 96 that required premium? If that's the case then will you still need premium if you're using the 97 tune on a 96 engine?

Really? Why is that? I've never heard that before. Isn't it even less power than the 97+? Seems strange.

This probably isn't the right place to discuss the sale of parts, but PM me with what you're hoping to get for them. Thanks.

Well if the cam seizes it can't go to the relaxed position so if it's not hitting now it's because either it's not interfering or the valves got bent out of the way I guess. Who knows on the other side. I'm guessing it's easy to tell if the valves got bent? I've looked into the issue on the forums. Seems as it's usually just something clogging the oil port to the cam. I wouldn't fix the head anyways, just replace it. Strat, thanks for the input. I'm thinking I might just do that too. Seems a pretty easy route. What's a used head usually go for?

I know it's an interference engine. The pulley did break so the belt came off. I realize there's a chance of engine damage. Not sure if this means anything or not but I can turn the engine over by hand (turned the crank pulley to remove torque converter bolts) and it will turn all the way around. It was driving at very low speed when the cam seized and I wonder if it just got lucky. Don't know though. Also, since I got the car so cheap I'm not really looking to squeeze out every last penny on the sale so I might be able to sell it for more if I do all the extra work but probably only as much more as I put in to it. Another question, why does the factory service manual show pulling the cams to remove the head? Is this necessary or only if you're pulling the head with the engine installed? I have thought about the 2.2L swap but it seems like the average person (that doesn't know the odds and ends of these cars) would see that as a negative and it would bring the value down. I might do that if I was keeping it because I don't care but I just want to sell it.

So I picked up a 97 Outback with a seized cam as a little project. I got the car for a good price ($300) and the rest of the car is in good shape and it's got 130k on it. I know the old owner and the car was in good shape otherwise. May need head gaskets but he never had overheating problems. So I'm thinking I'll just fix it and sell it as I don't really need another car right now. So here's the question. Grab a new head and throw it on there (do the head gaskets while I'm at it obviously) and some other odds and ends including waterpump and timing belt, etc. OR I have a source for a good running 2.5L from a 96 Outback ($500) that I don't THINK has HG problems but not positive. So I might have to do the HG on it anyways. Or I could just slap it in do the timing belt and call it good. The thing is I'm a little torn. I obviously want to take the easiest/cheapest way, but I also don't feel right selling a car that is going to break down on the next guy. What's the least amount I should to to either engine to be able to say I've done my part in making sure it will be good for the next guy? Thanks for the help guys!

I'm just getting starting with my research. My dad runs a body shop where we specialize in Subaru (especially OB) so I'm very familiar with OB in general and their common issues (ie HGs) but as for what type of gaskets to use, or what the separator plate are I'm not sure. Any help is appreciated but I'll be doing plenty of research as I get closer to "go time". I've never had a Subie motor apart but I'm confident that I can do the rebuild. Hmm....what to do....The used motor is about the same mileage. I'm waiting on a buddy so I can borrow is engine hoist.

Interesting. I can also get a head (or both) for a good price. I'm wondering if it might just be better to replace the heads and HGs while I'm at it on this motor rather than swapping in another one. Thoughts? I'll check for something blocking the oil flow once I get mine apart. Thanks for the info!

OP: I just bought a 97 OB from a coworker with the exact same problem. The car has like 130k on it and is in really good shape other than the motor - picked it up for $300. Your picture looks identical to my motor and the cam is siezed as well. Figure anything out on cause? I figured it had to be a lack of oil. I can get a 2.5 from a 96 OB that ran good before it was wrecked for $500 but I'm wondering if a 2.2 might be a better solution. Thoughts guys? I think I'm going to replace this motor but I'll probably still this one apart to see if I can figure out what caused the problem. I'm just a bit worried about the car being even more underpowered than it already was if I go with a 2.2L. Still not sure if I'm going to keep the car or just fix it and sell it.