methusalah

Thanks for all the input...finally got it off. I used the bump start method as a last ditch effort - put the socket and breaker bar on, turn the motor by hand until it was tight against the frame rail, through an old heavy towel over the top, closed the hood and cranked - ta da!! Awesome, now once I get it all cleaned up and the new timing belt, H2O pump, idler, etc. on...I'm hoping it'll run. Thanks again everyone! I love this forum.

2004 Impreza 2.5 SOHC 5speed...I'm very frustrated.

OK, I really need some advice...I can't get the nut on the crank pulley off. I've looked at a couple solutions from impact wrench to doing it by hand. Does anyone have some ideas? Does nut come off counter-clockwise or clockwise? I assumed it was counter- but with my luck... Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Sorry it's been awhile...work, travel, ugh! I'm going to attempt to post the pics, standby... Also, other than the timing belt, tensioner, idler pulley...what else should I replace while I'm working on it? I'm going to try just the timing stuff before I pull the heads and check the valves. If I need to do the valves, can anyone give me the parts list so I don't miss anything? thanks for all the help and support everyone.

Sorry more questions: what performance mods are simple, effective, and fairly inexpensive; I was thinking an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust cat back. I intend to replace the trans, diffs and engine oil with synthetic so any recommendations for that and best coolant for the car. Also, if I have to put in a clutch, what do y'all recommend for parts and what else to replace while I'm working on it and have access? Thanks muchismo!!

I'm going to pick it up this coming Saturday and will post pix as soon as I can; I'm not sure if I'll bring it home or take it to a friends to work on...we'll see. I can't wait!

Good news! Looks like I can pick-up the 04 Impreza TS for $750! Now, worst case it needs major work...I looked at it and it seems like a good deal. Car is in good shape overall and one downside is he already pulled the timing belt (broken) and some small bits. Hopefully this will work out ok. Probably will need some valves if the belt broke as he says; I guess even if I sink 2k into it, it will be worth it. Wish me luck and expect to hear a lot from me in the next month or so. Thanks again everyone for your help and support!

How about tools? Anything special for this job? What's the likelihood pistons may be damaged? Thanks for all of your help - I love this forum!

Thanks for the info; I will appreciate any additional input including parts supply advice and any good deals...I really want to add this car to my 'stable' of Subarus!!

One more thing: I have a 2.0 WRX motor (JDM i think) in my garage - condition unknown other than it came out of an auto car. I have all the bits with it minus the trans...

So, I could use some advice: I'm seriously looking at picking up a 2004 Imp wagon - 5spd; problem is the timing belt broke. As I recall, it is an interference motor...so rebuild or buy a low mileage used motor. Any problem with a 2.5 that's not the same year? Any adive or assistance would be very much appreciated. Overall the car is in excellent condition w/ new tires and a nice aftermarket sound system...all for $1K. What do y'all think? Thanks

OK, so it worked before my daughter had the timing belts changed and now, it doesn't...anyone have any ideas? On a similar note, the voltmeter works intermittently even with the new alt in it; jumps up and down but alt is putting out good current...getting a little frustrated with her beasty...anyone want a rust free dual range ea82?!? Last question, fuel guage isn't working...checked the sender and it looks like new, no crud or corrosion...thoughts?

Thanks everyone. I thought that the alternator was most likely the culprit but thebraking issue threw me a bit. Thanks for the suggestion about the ea82 alternator - is it pretty much a direct swap? if it is I assume it's more amps (75 vs 90) right?

Problem with dimming lights thing, when I look at my voltmeter while I'm breaking to see if something happens, and I did and thought I would tell you what happened. When I'm simply driving, it says I'm at about 13 or 14V, and when I downshift or take my foot off the gas, there isn't a change for the most part (I saw it fluctuate a little only a couple times, and only when downshifting), but when I brake, the voltmeter fluctuates and kinda wiggles between 12 and 13V (but it doesn't fluctuate all the time, just often). So not sure of what it might be exactly. Any thoughts?

I've read somewhere that you can get lifted a couple of inches from installing Outback struts on the OBS...is this true and if so, which struts from which model year Outbacks work? Thanks! Steve

Thanks for the info; are the KYBs or any front struts hard to find or what? Will ones for a 4wd sedan work? ARRRGGGGHHHH!! Why is this so difficult...anyone out there have some suggestions? I'd really like to be driving the car but it's just too darn bouncy right now! Thanks all!

OK - I'm sure the info is in this forum somewhere but I'm dumbfounded and have had no luck finding out which KYB GR2 struts and shocks will fit my wagon or where to buy them. I've tried a couple of sites and found the rears but can't seem to find the front struts...help?!? Thanks everyone!

It seems the clutch is out but I can't get the car in gear even when it's not running; also, shifter seems very loose - like maybe it's disconnected? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks folks!

I have a 2002 OBS and want to lift it a little - I know people have used legacy outback struts and/or springs...any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks, Steve

I just looked at a 1989 GL 4wd wagon with d/r 5spd. Suspension is good, body very good (no rust), interior good but dirty, a/c inop, clutch is bad, and brakes not working right - not sure why, the guy said they'll work, sort of, if you pump the brake pedal (master cylinder or brake booster or...?) It has 254k miles but sounds and runs great, no knocking, ticking or other ominous sounds, trans also works well. Windshield needs replaced and power windows are dodgy (driver's works fine though.) Thoughts on a price, he's asking 750...any help or advice would be great. Thanks all.

YOU ALL ROCK!!! Car is fixed - after less than 10 minutes! Pulled off disty cap...whoa, behold a screw just layin' in there and the rotor spins around freely...got a screwdriver, a little tape to hold set screw to 'driver, and, voila! Fixed! Runs like a top again...I love simple easy fixes! On top of it all, I found a parts car with alloy wheels and some other stuff to spiff up her car...its been a good day! Thanks again for all the help - you all make owning an older subie worth the occasional pain and suffering. Now I just need to plan swapping my WRX motor and tranny into the 87 GL 4wd hatch...dreams are awesome.

Not carb'd - it's a 1988 SPFI, 5 speed, 4wd GL wagon...

Update - I talked to my daughter and she said it sounded like backfiring and then the deceleration/loss of power...ugh, I hope it's not the timing belts - I just had those done a couple of months ago...anyone else have some ideas (I won't get to look at it until Saturday.) Thanks everyone!

I haven't done anything yet...car is 100+ miles away with my kid at college...it's getting towed back to her place. I will put more info up as soon as I can but right now I'm looking for a general direction.

Can anyone give me a clue...the car died and won't start, turns over but not starting. It made a popping noise, started popping and smells like burning/hot oil. Help please college daughter's car and I'm not real close to her. Thanks, Steve