jonbfish

So over a month ago I was driving my 98 Lego and the alternator and brake warning lights came on. I had a road trip planned so I went and bought a rebuilt alternator and new belt from NAPA and swapped it out. I am still getting the lights intermittently, although the battery hasn't died or anything. I put a multi meter on and have about 12 V when off, 13.5 when running, and just 12.1 when the warning lights are on and running. My question is did I get a bad rebuild or is there something else like the battery that could be causing this?

Good call, just printed off a coupon for $160, think I'll pull the trigger this week.

Good call, saw a 20 ton at HF for $200. That should be enough for wheel bearings? And if the jack is junk I can always get a better one and still use the frame?

I do live in rust country unfortunately. I'm having trouble getting the hub off still. Pinch bolt feels like its going to break, and the castle nut is spinning the bolt on the ball joint. I've been searching the forum and looks like its common and no easy solution.

Any follow up on this? I was looking at a similar one at Northern Tools this morning for wheel bearings.

Would a 12 ton press be enough to do the wheel bearings? Looked at one at Northern Tools this morning.

Also, is it preferred to remove the pinch bolt or just take the ball joint out with it?

How so? Should I unplug it somewhere and just leave it in? I am going to have to take it somewhere to get the bearing pressed in, is it far enough out of the way for that?

I have a 98 Legacy L with ABS. I think I have a bad wheel bearing (had to replace an inner tie rod recently so thinking the play wore it even though it sounds like the noise is coming from the other side) and started to take it apart. When I got to the ABS sensor the bolt came out easy enough, but how does the sensor body come out? There is a small gap at the bottom that I tried to wedge a screwdriver in to see if it would pop away from the knuckle, but a youtube I saw said to not do that because you will break it. Any suggestions? Went ahead and put it back together as its my only car but I know its going to need replaced soon.

Do I need to drain the oil to reseal the covers? Considering every thing I have removed has been a struggle to get apart I am leaning towards leaving it alone, although looking at pictures in some of the threads I may still have the plastic plate. Also, any thoughts on the paint dot on the flywheel?

I got the flywheel off. Since both of you said it I should probably reseal the covers, but they look good. Is that something that needs to be done? I am a little concerned I may screw it up and they won't be sealed as good as they are now. Pretty sure the separator plate is metal.

I didn't realize I should do the covers too but I've seen that in a thread here and will do. Is the o ring a dealer part? Also forgot to mention I didn't see a paint dot on the outside of the flywheel, but there is one towards the middle of it. Is that what I use to line up the clutch?

Thanks all, finally got it all apart. The clutch release fork is bad, pushed through the pivot. I am going to replace the clutch while I have it apart, is there an easy way to get the pilot bearing out? Also, anyone have any good or bad experiences with parts store clutches?

I am dropping the transmission. I thought it might be to keep it from going back forward. I have everything apart but the transmission and engine are stuck together pretty good. I have been raising and lowering the jack on the tranny trying to work it loose, so far I can get about an 1/8th inch of separation at the top. Any tips for that? Thanks a bunch guys, this board rocks!

Is it ok to leave it tipped for an extended period of time, or should that only be done when installing and removing? I may have it out a couple of days. That is what I was thinking so I ordered a new set. I might hit the one that stayed with some penetrant and give it a chance to come out easy, but not going to break it prying too hard. Do I thread the studs in all the way?

Thanks F4M, that sounds like a good idea. Can you give me any advice for replacing the exhaust studs?

No, it's the 2.2 so it's still a cable clutch. One reason I am attempting to change it.

Thanks, that is what I figured. Getting everything out of the way has been a chore since everything is a little more corroded than I expected. All the exhaust studs but one came out, that one the nut just came off. Should I try to get it out or just use the nut on the existing stud? I assume the others should all be replaced since the nut is stuck on.

The clutch is almost out of my 1998 Legacy L wagon. I replaced the clutch in my old 1991 Legacy a couple years ago and it was surprisingly easy. Are there any major differences between the two or any reason I should pay someone to do this other than the weather is starting to get cold? I was comparing the two books I have and looks pretty similar as they are both 2.2's. Also, what can you tell me about the special tool for tipping the engine?

Thanks guys! I went back to see about loosening the knock sensor and it was loose so I tightened it up and sprayed the connectors mentioned with contact cleaner. I have been a few days without the CEL so I think its fixed.

So this is a different connector than the one for the sensor itself? I followed your install instructions and the block looked smooth under it but I can check it again. I don't think it is severly over torqued but wondered how exact it has to be - if it's just so it doesn't crack I think it is ok.

Ok, have an update. The car ran good until I got stuck in my driveway one night. It was icy and I wasn't really stuck because its a subaru, but the CEL came back on. I changed the last spark plug and still got the 301 and 325 codes. I switched the plug wires and the misfire moved so I ordered new plug wires. I put two of them on and am going to change the other 2 when it quits raining, but I am still geting the 325 code. Does this mean I need to loosen or adjust the knock sensor I installed? It had a lifetime warranty so I can take it back if it might already be bad. It runs better but still seems to have a very slight hesitation.

Got 3 plugs changed before it got dark, runs great now. Do the plugs on the washer resovoir have a catch or do you just pull them off? I saw on here that folks usually take it out to get that last plug in.

Changed the knock sensor, runs better but still not right. Only getting the P0301 code now. Check pugs, wires, coil next?

Thanks for the rec, I have been hesitant to buy a cheap one in the past so got one for $137 retail. Probably could have got it cheaper but I wanted it today. Codes are: P0301 P0302 P0325 P01443 Looks like the knock sensor and EVAP, kind of what I thought from researching symptoms here. I'll get the knock sensor fixed first I hope (Saw your great writeup FT4M), then can try to figure out the EVAP when it warms up a little bit.