Gsir08

I guess that wouldnt too difficult to overcome.

Okay so after looking into my wiriing diagrams, theres one main power wire shared between teh coil, fuel pump relay, and the ECU. If I did this I would take that one wire going straight to the ECU and run it to fused constant 12v for when I go get the emissions test done. The only thing I'm wondering is when they turn teh key off and the car shuts down which it will cause the coil and fuel pump are still wired to the key, will the emissions computer be able to tell that my ECU was never powered off and therefore give me an automatic fail?

That worst case is the main reason I never considered trying this. I want that ECU, plus youd have to come up with a manual switch to the turn the car off. The emissions guy isnt going to go for that... UNLESSS, if you wire the ECU straight to the battery. And hopefully the way the car is wired from the factory the igntion switch would cut power to the coil to shut it down. Going to have to look at some wiring diagrams because finding an intake manifold doesnt appear to be as easy as I had hoped.

Ya i dont know how you could ever kill the engine and leave power to the ECU. I think leaving power to it would leave hte motor running

I have a scan tool, and can check all my IM monitors, and the only thing I'm wondering is. How could you get the motor to stall right when they bring it to emissions and be able to start it back up? These legacys wont even let you turn the key to start I don't think if youve already started the motor. And youd have to figure out how you could keep power to the computer memory but shut power off so when you turn the key off the computer would be powered. I'm afraid the motor would keep running if the ECU still has power with key off.

thank you very much:)

And yes, my plan is to swap the 2.2 back in with the EGR valve installed on it and run the 97 computer, and then try and sell the 2.5 once I pass emissions. Cause now I have 2 good motors and they're both very similar, and if I really had to pick one or the other to sell I'd rather sell the EJ25, I've just always really liked the 2.2 even though the 2.5 is a better designed motor, except for its common issues but those are taken care of. And I considered swapping everytime for emissions, but I can't keep a motor around here for that long or itd really be considered. Also thsoe spare heads I have were either a 97 or a 98 model, so they had solid lash adjusters, cause 96 was the last year for hydraulic. And I hate hydraulic lifters, in any motor. So in the meantime I'm also going to get rid of these hydraulic lifters and use the whole rocker arm assembly and camshafts out of the newer 2.2 heads.

The concept is very good actually using the 96 ECU, although I would not be confident in my wiring enough to make it work or not mess something up. I understand how your thinking though, cause I work with engines so I think just working on the engine is much easier for me.

I like my big all terrains, and aparently to do the test properly they "need" to shut the car off at the beginning of the test.

Everytime they would try and test my 97 with the 96 ECU in it , everytime theyd tell me the monitors arent ready you need to drive it more. I used my scanner tool to see when all the monitors were OK and as soon as you turn the key off it clears them all. Everytime it did this and they need to turn the motor off right at the beginning of the test so it always clears the monitors. I did some research online and I guess the emissions computers know that 96 ECUS do that with the monitors.

Thats the problem I'm not going for simple I'm going for cheap. And the chances of finding a manual 96 with bad motor are very very unlikely and then I'd have a 96 that isnt anywhere near as nice as this 97. I want this 97 for myself cause its the nicest one I've had. I also want to keep my 2.2 cause right now the 2.5 is in and it will pass emissions with it but then that leaves me with having to sell the 2.2. I'd rather keep the 2.2 and sell the 2.5, the 2.5 makes more power ya, but I swear less down low torque and I hate that. Also the 2.2 is just such a solid beastly motor, no question. Personally swapping intake manifolds is easier than buying a whole new car...

the spare head was a 97, and I wouldn't really be doing all of this if i was insisting on making everything that i have work. I already have a non EGR 2.2 thats fully rebuilt, and the 97 OBW was very cheap. Id just run the 2.5 in it, but honestly and you know you guys know why id much rather have a 2.2 in it than the EJ25D, but now I have an EJ22 thats rebuilt, and an EJ25D thats rebuilt. Just my choice on which Id rather have in my car.

Well I figured I might ask if anyone has ever done this but I'm most likely going to be the first. So I might as well describe my whole situation from the beginning. I had a 96 manual OBW that was a 2.2 with no EGR, and I loved that car and motor it was great and ran mint with 230,xxx miles on it. Then someone rear ended it and I really wanted another one that was 5 speed and 2.2 would be great but I had a good 2.2 right in my driveway and a good 5 speed sitting in my totalled car. And this is my daily driver so there it needs to be running at all times pretty much. So luckily right after the accident I found a 97 OBW limited, so it had a 2.5 and auto trans. Fully loaded though with nice heated leather seats . So I figured let me do this one up nice I'll freshen up my 2.2 and install that with the 5 speed into the 97. So I got all of that work done, really was pretty straightforward swap. I ran my 96 ECU and had no codes coming up, but it will not pass emissions, because all of the 1996 ECU have something specail and wont pass in any other year except a 1996. So I have to pass emissions with my 97 ECU, but that is looking for EGR so it throws a code with my non egr 2.2. So now I have my mint freshened up 2.2 that I would love to have in my car cause I love the 2.2, but it wont pass emissions in that car. So I could either get a 97 or later ECU for a non EGR EJ, or I could install EGR on this 2.2. And after looking into it, it isnt bad at all. The main difference is going to be the drivers side cylinder head isnt tapped for the EGR pipe. But the difference is it just isnt drilled all the way through to the exhaust port or tapped. So I tried on a spare head I have to drill and tap that hole and I got the EGR pipe to fit. So all I will really need to do is drill and tap my head on my 2.2, and find a 2.2 EGR intake manifold to bolt on. I have alot of 2.5 EGR parts that I'm pretty sure will fit on a 2.2 intake, like the actual valve and all the lines. I can then run my 97 ECU and it wont throw a code for no EGR valve.

As the title says, I'm wondering what size that thread is for the pipe on the egr that goes into the head and the intake. Is it a pipe or straight metric? Anyone know the size?

make sure your cooling fans work...

What is that guy talking about? even the orginal phase 1 Ej25's had MLS headgaskets... only the older 2.2's were composite?

Edit: Its a 5 speed if I didn't make that clear right away. So now that I've got a pretty solid OBW, actually extremely good since the motors fresh, and the rest of the car is in very good shape except for a few minor problems that will get fixed as I put money into this. But it is still my daily driver and all of us know that getting the best car you could have for the cheapest price is best so I try to spend only the money thats necessary on this car. Not much fails on these cars but I'm beginning to wonder about my transmission. This transmission was swapped out of my 1996 OBW and put in my 97, and when I bought my 96 the car had about 215,xxx miles on it. And now about 20,000 miles later that tranmission is in my 97. It seems to be in quite fine shape, although I'm sure it would shift smoother with a new set of syncros in it. But I dont know the maintenance record of this trans and I'm basically wondering how much could I expect out of this one with normal driving conditions. It does get the occasional gear grind because of clutching issues or whatever(it happens occasinally maybe once every few weeks I'll grind second for a quick instant) I'm also wondering what would be the best bet if this trans starts to go downhill? How much is the average price to get new syncros installed and all gone through. Or would I be better off finding another good low mileage 5 speed?

Interesting you should say that, I did actually swap the shocks from my 96 onto this car, as they were in better shape although by no means near new condition. It's hard to be specific about these kind of sounds, but seems like left and right, moreso on the passenger side if I had to pick but both would do it. I never got a noise like that on my 96, but maybe moving them around aggrevated the struts. The end links are possible, but they're sill intact, the rubber is a little cracked but nothing that should cause a clunk like that.

So my 1997 Outback seems to have a fairly noticeable clunk whenever pot holes or just driving over generally bumpy roads. Now this car has a reman set of axles in it from Advanced, and also wheel bearings and this is recent so I was just in there checking everything out. So I'm basically wondering what would cause a the clunk. Everything in there seems to be in very good condition, ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar links, and teh shocks even feel quite firm when you try to push the car. I did notice that when I put the axles on they were not sitting very firm on the shaft of the transmission, I could move the inner cv around a noticeable amount on the transmission shaft, and thats with new pins in it also. But I'm not sure if that would cause this clunk I hear, I'm just really stumped cause nothing is obviously loose or worn out.

Holy timing belt... Little more complicated than the 2.2L but still not too bad And I'm debating installing this oil cooler? Any idea what car this came from? Did they put these on outbacks ever?

I'm about to replace mine tonight with radioshack bulbs thanks to the wonderful thread i found on this site. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2498&pp=10&highlight=climate+control+backlight&page=2

Got my first subaru thats had heated seats, I'm wondering why the switch can be turned on in 2 different positions, what are the 2 different options. Oh ya, its a 1997 OBW

Well its not like it'd be a huge hassle to get the parts, its just a matter of getting that huge plug out of my block, anyone have any advice on that? And maybe I should give it a shot, because most this car sees alot of short 5 minutes drives.

Haha you should see the rest of the stuff in there though, the 2.5 feels left out with all the V8's around.

Update: Heads and cams installed, next step, install oil pump and water pump and I can start workin on getting its timing belt back on it. And yes, the heads are painted gold.