
Gsir08
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Everything posted by Gsir08
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ya im going to have to... even though I find it hard to believe with the head and block so flat that fel pro's wouldnt work. And make it to well over 100,000, I think its more about maintanence than anything else and how the motors driven as to wether itll lose a headgasket. BUT I did read that subaru redisgned the gasket so it must be better...
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One of the junk 2.5 motors I got for parts had one of these coolers on it where the oil filter screws on. You know its basically a sandwhiched plate between the filter and block that runs water around the oil to get it warm when the oils cold, and to cool it down if its hotter than the coolant. I'm wondering if this is worth going through the effort to put this on my motor. I'd have to remove one of those very large tight plugs in the water jacket, and then theres like 6 more spots I could leak water from. And this is my daily driver I'm not going to be beating on it or anything, I'd just see it helping get the oil up to temp much quicker. So what do you guys think worth putting on or no?
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No oversized pistons, seems like these subaru bores hardly ever wear I don't know how many miles on this one but you can see theres no wear ridge. Pretty much time to bolt the heads on, I got the lash adjusted on them both today. They got a complete valve job, resurfaced, I pulled the old nasty studs off the exhaust manifold side and cut them flat. They were reassembled with new valve stem seals and are as good as new.
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So I'm just about through with the freshen up on my 99 EJ25D I got, one of the last of the NA dual cams. It's going to go back into my 97 OBW in hopes that it will be emissions complient if the EGR is working well. But this motor should turn out really nice, I went through the whole shortblock, it was about to lose its rod bearings, so I replaced all the bearings and rings and just got the short block done the other day. Everything has been gone through and checked and measured and the head gasket surface is flatter than when it left the subaru dealer. Now all thats left is setting the lash on the heads and putting all that stuff back on. Looks like it should come out even decent, and for anyone that might need a motor I built my EJ22 the same way and it came out even better. And it's going to need a good home after the 2.5 is in. I can't wait to see what this motors like, the EJ22 was great but a little on the underpowered side, that extra 30hp might be nice to have.
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I'd like to get another set, because the other current set that I have is in my OBW still, bolted up to my 2.2L. As some of you may have seen I'm going to be putting a good 2.5L back into this car, and the 2.5 that I got to build didnt come with anything on it, and if it did it would probably be a flexplate. I guess I dont NEEED to get them, saves me the aggrevation of having to uninstall my old flyhweel and clutch off the 2.2 and just being able to drop in the 2.5 with clutch and flywheel already installed. Didn't think those dealer prices woiuld be so low, I'll have to stop there this week. Thanks guys, and I agree going to a regular bolt store I may not like, it seems like all flywheel bolts are usually designated specifically for flywheels, the pressure plate ones arent as big a deal, but I'm not sure of the diamter and pitch on those....
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I don't think it matters what head gasket you use as long as the procedure you follow its correct, and you make sure the deck of the block is mint. Which 95% of the time these head gasket surfaces on the block are ruined. I plan on using fel pro headgaskets and an extremely flat deck and head and don't see how a fel pro is any different from a subaru head gasket.
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I have my original 1997 with the spun rod bearing, and it had all the old style stuff on it, so I have all those parts. Then my 99 had the new style, and in my haynes manual it says in 1998 they switched to a redesign, good to know its interchangeable though. Only wondering if the belts are the same?
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OH boy, found out some other things they changed. They went to a one piece belt tensioner.... and the one piece tensioner i have has an awfully bad bearing. I have the older style tensioner and pulleys and that is all in pretty decent shape, so I'd use that if its all interchangeable. And is the one piece design far superior or something?
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Thank you very much, seems like I got kind of a rare EJ25D. Its one of the last dual cam 2.5 used in outbacks... and it has the changes to the crankshaft that came at the end of its life, so its like the newer bottom end but still dual cam:). Also this motor I got is in pretty fine shape, should be able to throw her all back together with new rings and bearings probably, do up the heads nice and see how it works out. Oh and of course make sure the head gasket surfaces are extremely flat and smooth to help avoid the terrrible problem the ej25d suffers from.
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I dont really have timing covers from these motors, they are cores motors that were going to be scrapped. Is there any other way to tell between phase 1 and phase 2? I assume the older ones being phase 1 is what I have. What would I need to make a phase 2 fit adn work if thats what I had. But most importnaly how else could I identify it. If I had to guess I believe its a phase 2, cause the crankshaft is also different. The thrust is on position 5.