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Gsir08

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Everything posted by Gsir08

  1. If you need them.. I have a 97 rear end an axles from my 97 OBW 2.5 Auto that I just converted to manual. So I have no use for this Auto rear axle.
  2. Okay, so I've finally got my auto to manual swap done from a 96 to 97 OBW, and Ive only got a few little issues to deal with. One that is stumping me is why the ABS light is on. I'm going to assume its because it usually is expecting info from the auto trans for the ABS, but I no longer have any of that stuff in there. So now I'm just wondering how do I get the ABS light off? I've read that the 96 uses a computer under the dash, while the computer for the ABS in the 97 is part of the abs module in the engine bay. Is there a difference between the 2 systems between AUTO and manual? Anyone ever have this problem before?
  3. lmdew, i sent you a PM. I'm having the exact same problem, but I swapped a 96 manual into a 97 auto. MY 96 2.2 had NO egr, the 97 2.5 did. Its throwing a code for the EGR and for the Auto trans p1702 and p0403. Are these coming up cause it still thinks the car is an auto? IF I make the ECU think its standard should both these codes go away? It runs great, the idle is a little screwy which I'm thinking might be because it still thinks it auto. Oh and I used the 96 ECU, since its now a 2.2 and not a 2.5. Why is this ECU even looking for EGR? The car it came from didnt even have it.
  4. I can put any window down, from any window switch with no key in the ignition in my 97 OBW. It didn't come from the factory this way I have to assume. Did it? What the heck would make it do that and is it necessarily a bad thing?
  5. Well thanks for all the input guys. I finally got the thing started. I don't know what the problem was first time around when I tried a new battery, but for the second time of trying a new battery it finally started up. I guess it just really neeeded a good battery to start off with, I have no idea why it didn't work the first time I tried it. Oh well all seems to be good now:grin:
  6. Alll gaskets. I put new bearings and rings in. And now i just replaced the crank sensor, and I already checked for spark and there is none. The alternator is new from the other car, coolant temp sensor. Anybody know a good way of testing the ICM? Oh ya and its a brand new timing belt, and the tensioner seemed to be in great shape, good tension on the belt, and its sure to be timed correctly, its kind of hard to mess up with the lines on the belt... I can't wait to have this thing running. It ended up being alot of work but it should be a fairly nice OBW when all done, its got nice heated leather since it was a limited, the body is in decent shape although it is a little faded red. But I'll be so happy to still have my 2.2 and 5 speed. That combo seems to be hard to come by around my area. And if you do theyre usually a decent amount of money.
  7. Okay, so, after checking wether or not I'm getting signal to my coil to fire, I find that there is nothing. Nothing is telling the coil to fire. And at this point ive got a new crank sensor in it, and have tried swapping all other components, and put all the 2.2 stuff back. Now I made an attempt at seeing if the ECU is telling the ICM to fire. So I unplugged the plug off the ICM, stuck one prong of my voltmeter to pin 1, which according to everything I've read is the signal from the ECU to fire. So I crank the car over with that pin being checked, and sure enough the voltmeter bounces between nothing and random amounts of voltage, it happens so quick its hard to get an accurate reading on the volts. But it does seem that when cranked, the ICM is getting some sort of signal to fire. Is this a sure way to check if the ICM is bad or is it uncheckable? I'd love to know whats the problem for sure before I start buying parts.
  8. if the ecu wasnt getting input it needs it probably wouldnt have started and ran for like 5 minutes like it did. could it? And I'm going to buy a set of noid lights today.... I'm like 90% sure theres fuel, you can smell it when it cranks but it'll be good to make sure all are getting told to inject.
  9. swapped coil from 2.5, cam sensor, ignitor, and replaced the crank sensor and it still just cranks and cranks and cranks. I tried putting in the old ecu. Still the same. I don't know what the problem here is. What else could make it have no spark? I've checked like all the ignition components and made sure all the grounds are in very good shape.
  10. And does anyone have any more information on what ECU I should be using exactly and what I do with AT/MT on this car? The car used to be automatic and I just plugged my 2.2 ECU in. And I assumed I wouldn't have to change wiring of the identifier pin because I used the ECU out of the manual. Is this not true, and I need to change that pin?
  11. will 97 2.5 ignition components work on a 96 2.2? like coil, ignitor, crank or cam sensor?
  12. Okay so i was just out there working on it, i've tried pouring gas straight down the intake and that does not do anything for it. i finally tried to check spark by myself and i didnt not get any spark. i did resistance checks on the coil, the crank and cam sensors and all thats good. so at this point im almost certain that its just not getting spark. id suspect a wiring or ecu issue, but why was it running for like a good amount of time but on 3 cylinders? I'm afraid that if I go to stock ECU it'll think its an AUTO with an EGR. So now with no spark, what is the first thing I should be looking at checking. I hate diagnosing ignition parts theres no real good way to test anything.
  13. I need help, I'm stumped I cannot get it to start at all now, and I've gone over like everything
  14. Update Again. So I took the battery out of my good running car, and tried it in this, and still nothing. I can't even get the car to like fire even a little bit. It's just like dead cranking. Why did it go from running on 3 cylinders to none? If I unplugged num ber one injector and it made no difference could that be either an ignition issue or a fuel injector issue. If that cylinders shooting fuel but not sparking youd see no difference when unplugged correct?
  15. Ya I'll try that, its weird though cause I keep throwing the battery charger on it, and it cranks quickly but wont start. Then after about 5 seconds of cranking it begins to just die out on me. And on the battery charger it will say its full charged in like 20 minutes. And it is not a fast battery charger. I just find it extremely strange that it still cranks over fine and wont start with a charger on it, if it was a problem with the battery
  16. UPDATE: I just unplugged number one injector while it was running, and unfortunatly i find it makes no difference as to how the car runs. looks like ive got a problem here. i can probably check the wiring to that injector and see if its getting power right? And I went back out there to try some more testing, now its a good 20 degrees colder than it was today in the day and the motor has been sitting and I cannot get it to even start. Would one injector not firing make it impossible to start cold? What could be causing problems like this it seems really strange to me.
  17. I have a manual transmission now. I used the 96 2.2 and 5spd. into the 97 2.5 Automatic. And used the manual transmission. I know that my battery is not in the best of shape but could that possibly cause it? It revs smoothly in neutral. And so the EGR will not be a problem at all since the 97 2.5 had it and I put in the 2.2 which does not have it? I might throw on a vacuum gauge and make sure theres no leaks. I see no loose hoses or anything, but the motor is freshly rebuilt so something might have gone wrong with the gasket install.
  18. So, long story short I decided to take on a massive project of swapping a 2.2L with a 5 speed manual from my 96 outback into a 97 shell Outback shell that I had that used to be a 2.5 with an automatic. Since I had the 97, and my 96 was totalled I decided it was the best thing to do, and I was reading that the 2.2 to 2.5 swap is no big deal. Now I got it all together and it runs, and revs smoothly and everything, but when the car is idling it misses very badly and hte motor shakes. Now I see that you must match the motors with EGR and non EGR. And it seems like the Autos came with EGR and manuals do not. My 97 2.5 had an EGR but my 96 2.2 did not. When I did the swap, I swapped the main engine harness, used all of the 2.2 stuff, and the 2.2 ECU. Now is my idle issue caused by my lack of EGR? Should'nt it work fine since I have the 2.2 ECU in it and it wouldnt be looking for it anyway? What else could cause it to shake so bad when idling and then rev fine? I've gone over all my connections several times now, checked plugs, wires, all that stuff and everything seems ok. It just doesnt want to idle smoothly.
  19. So, long story short I decided to take on a massive project of swapping a 2.2L with a 5 speed manual from my 96 outback into a 97 shell Outback shell that I had that used to be a 2.5 with an automatic. Since I had the 97, and my 96 was totalled I decided it was the best thing to do, and I was reading that the 2.2 to 2.5 swap is no big deal. Now I got it all together and it runs, and revs smoothly and everything, but when the car is idling it misses very badly and hte motor shakes. Now I see that you must match the motors with EGR and non EGR. And it seems like the Autos came with EGR and manuals do not. My 97 2.5 had an EGR but my 96 2.2 did not. When I did the swap, I swapped the main engine harness, used all of the 2.2 stuff, and the 2.2 ECU. Now is my idle issue caused by my lack of EGR? Should'nt it work fine since I have the 2.2 ECU in it and it wouldnt be looking for it anyway? What else could cause it to shake so bad when idling and then rev fine? I've gone over all my connections several times now, checked plugs, wires, all that stuff and everything seems ok. It just doesnt want to idle smoothly. EDIT: Kind of posted this in the wrong spot.
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