Gsir08

I'm trying to find an EJ25 to fit into my 97 OBW. I got a used ej25d, but it has 6 tranmission to motor bolts and 2 studs. My original 2.5 only had 2 bolts and 2 studs. Is this motor with more the same, and what else is different?

Forgot to mention I know about eth ECU identifier pin and that is all taken care of. Yes finding a 97 non egr computer would be ideal but I havent found one yet... I think your right about them being hard to find.

Well I figured I'd like to share a little emissions issue that I have encountered when swapping my 97 OBW from auto to manual transmission, while at the same time swapping the 2.5 out with a 2.2. Basically I had my 96 2.2 OBW 5 spd, that got totalled and I found a 97 with auto trans and a blown 2.5. Now because I'm such a major fan of manual transmission cars, I had to swap that in, along with the 2.5. And the major problem being that my 96 had no egr, and the 97 did have egr. So I ended up doing the whole swap and running the 2.2 ECU. Everythings fine, I get no codes for anything, and I'm running no EGR. So now I took the car to emissions expecting to be fine, with no CEL or anything and I find out when they test it, it keeps coming back with the I/M monitors not being ready. I thought this was strange cause I drove the car for a while and they should have been ready, so I did some searching on the internet and learned that all 1996 subarus clear the I/M monitors when you turn the key to off, and that the emissions test knows this, and the 1996's wont fail for that reason. But my problem is the car is being tested as a 97 so its not on that last of cars that clear the monitors, and I bet using my 97 would fix that problem cause I"m sure its somthing inside the computer. But when I use the 97 ECU I get a code for the EGR, because apparently the ECU is looking for it and theres nothing on my 2.2. So. I guess I could either try and get a waiver from emissions, or try to find a 97 ecu thats non egr..., or swap a 2.5 back in and run EGR.

Wikipedia goes into pretty good detail on the changes made to the later 2.2's

I just checked the pin on the ECU, and I have 4.7 volts at it no matter what gear its in. This is strange why would it have power all the time. I know the switch is good. Can someone clarify this for me? If you have a pin on the ECU that should have a certain voltage, or 0. Would it read voltage if the pin was grounded or not grounded?

So I swapped my 97 OBW to a 5 spd manual from a 96. I used the 96 ECU and ran the correct identifier pin to ground and stopped getting auto trans codes and only get p1101 for the nuetral switch. I replaced the neutral switch to make sure it wasnt that. I even wired the switch right to correct pin on the ECU and it still comes up with that code. Anyone have any idea how I can get rid of this code? IM stumped.

Yes, this was a swap. I took the manual transmission from my 96 OBW and put it in a 97 auto. I also swapped ECU's at the same time, because I also swapped 2.5 with a 2.2, and I grounded the correct AT identification pin, and I stopped getting codes for the automatic trans, but now I just get this one for nuetral switch that I just can't get rid of. Really need help with this one.

96 was the last year of the HLA's in 2.2's I believe

So long story short I swapped a manual transmission into my 1997 OBW, from a 96 OBW, and I get a code for the nuetral switch. Now, I cannot figure out as to why it keeps coming up with the code, but I'm wondering why does this even have it to begin with. Does the ECU use this switch to change some things, like idle or something? Maybe if I can figure out why it needs it I can figure out how to get rid of the code.

Basically wondering where to get a hitch from, and where it is best mounted to and how its mounted up to the back of a 97 Outback. I only want a small hitch I'm only going to be pulling a tiny snowmobile trailer with a snowmobile on it. prolly max like 750lbs

Head swap would leave you knowing the headgaskets are mint, and you won't have to worry about what condition the used motor is in. It may be fine but could need head gaskets in a month, you'll never know. Motor swap would probably be easier, but new heads would leave you with a better motor.

Delete some PM's mtskibum16. It wont let me send anymore

I have some mint 97 2.5 heads for sale. They're fresh rebuilds.

thanks the info on cleaning the hydraulic lifters. I really wish I could bolt on the mechanical style rockers. I have a pair of heads with those rockers and they look exactly the same as mine does only with adjusters on them. Even if mine stopped ticking, I'd prefer to have adjusters, they are much better in my opinion and any high performance motor uses them.

So pretty much I have a 96 2.2L in my Outback, and it has hydraulic lash adjusters. I hate them and they always make noise and I'd prefer it to have mechanical adjusters like the 97's and up 2.2L's had. So I'm basically wondering if I can swap the mechanical adjusting rocker arm assembly from the 97 onto the 96 heads? Or would they not fit?

I'm still wondering how I would get the light to go off without putting the TCU in.

yes... ive tested it. and why wouldnt it work if the light goes off.

does anybody know if there would be a problem with leaving the TCU in?

yes i grounded the pin, and it does think it is a MT. But when I plug the TCU in, the idle gets raised... How can i Make the abs light go off without the tcu in there?

Can I swap the ABS control unit? In my Haynes manual that I have, it sayss the pre 97 they used a seperate control unit, but the 97 has it build into the ABS module in the engine bay. Oh and when I had the TCU plugged in, the idle was kind of high and not right, so I unplugged the center plug on the TCU, and the idle went abck to normal and the ABS light stayed off, since the other 2 plugs on the TCU are in. Is it bad to have the TCU in there?

But I want the ABS to work...

Okay, so to test my theory... I put the Automatic Tranmission control unit back in the car, and the ABS light went away.... So what do I do now... can I leave the TCU in there? OR will that mess with the computer since it is now manual?

ah I need more help with this. Are this diagrams even right for my generation outback? And is there like a list of codes and it'll tell me what the problem is? I'm wondering if the fact there is no longer a tcu is messing it up? Edit.. oops i didnt see the code list on the last page. but im still wondering if the way to read it is the same for a 97 legacy.

So I could use a new transmission mount for my 97 OBW 5speed. The only place I know I can get it for sure is at the dealer for liek 200 dollars. Thats kind of a lot for one mount... anyone know where I can get one cheaper? Thanks

mine has extremely worn and pitted contacts, still cranks good though but would intermittenly just not do anything. Can you buy those contacts anywhere?