ronnie johhhnnn

There is play where they meet for sure, but what should I actually replace? Is it the inner or outer when there is play here? If I can get away with only replacing one, thats what I'd like to do. Thanks in advance.

On my 95 Legacy L wagon, there seems to be some resistance in the steering when its in the straigt forward position. If I jack up the car and move the steering wheel from left to right, there is a sort of clunk noise. It doesn't seem like its anyhting that can just lock up on me, BUT... that is my question. I don't really know how the steering is set up on these and I was wondering if there is anything in there that can fail and cause me to not be able to turn. Also, there is a very slight amount of play in the driver side wheel from left to right. It seems to be right where the inner and outer tie rods meet up, under the boot. Its not bad yet, but I was wondering if that very slight amount of play could be causing the vibration I'm getting on the highway. The car has 260,000 miles on it so I'm basically not trying to dump much money into it. I can deal with some discomfort as long as its not going to end up killing me.

Just to give a follow up to my problem, it ended up being the fuel pump relay. The connectors had a lot of green corrosion on them as did the wires leading up to the plug. Had the relay and the connectors replaced and it starts right up. I'm trying to get this thing to 300,000 miles. I'm thinking about painting it flat black when it gets there but I might just do at a quarter million. I'm only 6,000 shy of that now:banana:. We'll see what happens. Thanks for all of your help and I hope this thread helps someone out in the future.

I got some starter fluid and sprayed it in the air box and it started right up. It then proceeded to sputter and die as to be expected. I just changed the fuel filter about 2 months ago so I don't think that the problem lies there. I think something is telling the fuel pump to not turn on. Could the engine coolant temp sensor cause that? I am also getting no codes. Does anyone know if there is any resistance on the voltage going to the pump? I would like to try and run a wire directly from the battery to it and see if it would run like that.

A few days ago when I started my car, it was idling really rough. When I tried to give it gas, it would jsut sputter and stall. After starting it a few more times and having the same results, it randomly started running fine. I drove it around with no problems until I had to start it again. It did the same thing, only this time it stopped even sputtering. It just cranked and cranked and cranked until I killed the battery. I replaced the fuel pump thinking that was the culprit. I had to jump it to get it to crank, and when it did, it started right up. Whe I got home, I decided to try and start it again, and I got the same problem. It started rough, and would die if I gave it any gas. Again, it stopped sputtering and would just crank and crank until the battery died. I took the fuel pump out again to kind-of double check my work, put it back in, and it started right up?!?!! Then, once again, when I shut it off and tried to start it again, SAME PROBLEM. It almost seems like the fuel pump only want to work once for each hook up. When I try to start it a second time, it seems like fuel pump doesn't even come on. Any suggestions?

The clutch engages pretty high so I don't think that is causing the problem. If it were low, I would say that maybe it wasn't disengaging enough to allow room to shift. I'm not that knowledgeable about how transmissions work but it seems to me like the syncros maybe aren't doing what they are supposed to. The only thing that leads me to believe that it could just be the clutch is the binding that I get. It doesn't happen on turns like I have read about often. It only happens while coasting slowly, in gear, with the clutch pressed down. It kind-of pulses real bad right as you are coming to a stop, in first and reverse only. I'm probably going to end up learning to drive it how it is for a while because I can't really afford transmission work right now. I love the car, and it still feels like it will be dependable, but i don't know if dumping $1500 or so into it at 240,000 miles is that logical.

My 95 legacy wagon started acting up on me the other day. I took a trip down to Louisville, KY and basically drove it for 6 hours straight. When i got off the freeway, it was oddly difficult to get it to pop into 1st gear. Once moving, I can shift forward through the gears pretty easily but down shifting on the freeway is somewhat difficult. It tends to grind a little when poping it down into 4th or 3rd. When I'm at a complete stop, I actually have to kind-of push the stick in the direction of first gear, let the clutch up slightly, and quickly push it back down before it grinds making it possible to pop it into gear. There is something else happening that is sort of strange to me too. If I am in first gear at a stop, and just give it a little gas and push the clutch down to coast, it kind-of feels like its binding up. It does the same thing while coasting in reverse with the clutch down. This is quite annoying because I have to pop it out of gear every time i want to move a little bit forward in traffic, and then go through the annoying process of getting it back into first. I should add that the car has 241,000:) miles on it and I have owned it since it had 168,000. I do not know if the clutch has ever been replaced but I haven't had a problem with it slipping or anything. My question is, has anyone had a problem similar to this and if so, do I need a new clutch, new tranny, both, neither?

Well, I just finished the job, 19 hours later. I was able to break the nuts free by using a closed wrench on the nut side and a breaker bar on the bolt head side. The axle is still stuck in the hub but I'm not going to worry about it until I need to change that out. Thanks to the people who gave some advice. This forum has been so helpful to me over the past few years.

I managed to get the passenger side completely finished, but now I'm stuck on the other side. What I ended up doing is removing the caliper and using an extension for the top nut. To get the bottom one, I was able to tilt the hub assembly down, pivoting on the bottom bolt, and pound the axle in just far enough to get a socket on the nut. I used a great method I read some where on here to break it free. I ended sitting on a 1/2 breaker bar with a long pipe on the end, while hitting the the breaker bar with a hammer. My problem I'm having now is, I can't get the driver side axle to slide out of the hub. I have puounded the hell out of it, and even put a puller on it. I'm afraid to spray any PB blaster in there because I don't want to mess up the bearings. Any ideas anyone?

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I already removed the caliper. My next step is going to be to try and take the axle nut off and slide it far enough towards the diff as to get a socet on that nut and use an extension. I hope that I can slide the axle far enough with out having to remove it from the diff.

I am trying to replace the rear struts in my 95 legacy. I have done lots of searching through here but could not find what I'm looking for. The big problem I am having is with the two lower strut bolts. The way I see it, the only way to even get a socket on the nut is to remove the rear axle. Even then, It seems like there wouldn't even be enough room to break it free with the rotor in the way. Is there something I'm missing or do I have to completely disasseble the break system, control arms, and axle to get these two bolts out?

Does anyone know if a starter from an 87 GL will work in a 93 Loyale? I'm selling one on Ebay and I got a question from someone with a loyale wanting to know if it will work. I have a feeling that it's the same, but I just want to be sure before I tell him "yes". Thanks.

I've got a 95 Legacy L wagon and am going to be replacing front sway bar bushings. When I went to a couple different auto parts stores they tell me that there are a couple different sizes available, 16mm, 19mm, ect. What does my car have???

Just wanted to finish this one off just incase someone else has this problem. It was the ECM. Had it replaced and all is well. Thanks for all your help though. This forum is a very useful tool.

I just spent the last hour and a half removing my ECU...only to find out that it was my damn cruise control box. I had to drill a hole in metel behind the glovebox to get the top nut off. I'm getting soo frustrated. Where is the ECU at??????? ugggghhhh.

I'm pretty sure I found it now, next to the glovebox. I am a little dissapointed though because when I unhook the plug from it, I still have the relay occilations. I didn't think the car would do anything with the ECU unhooked....my next step is going to be to test for a short in the wires that plug into it. I'm also going to check for discontinuity between the igniter and the ecu. If I still don't come up with anything after these tests, I think I'm gonna give up on it. I'll just take it to some shop and fork over the cash for them to figure it out.

Ok..... I have a feeling now that it could be my ECU. Where is it though???? I can't seem to find it and even when I search on this forum I can't find anything on its location. Oh, by the way, my tests before on the coil were inaccurate. The resistance values all came up fine when I tested it again. I am also getting the 10V I am supposed to be getting from the center wire in the plug leading to the coil. I am not getting spark though. This leaves the igniter and the ECU. I do not believe that the cam sensor, crank sensor, or igniter would cause the relay occilations I am getting so I am preety sure its the ECU. If anyone has pictures of where its at or a good description, please respond. Thanks again.

Well, I did end up taking the relay apart, and sadly enough, it is in perfect working order....... So I am back where I started. I have a feeling I am having two seperate problems going on. Something is preventing spark and I think something else is causing my relays to occilate. Tomarrow I am going to test the wires leading to the coil for voltage while someone is cranking it. If I have voltage entering the coil but not leaving it ,then I have a bad coil, correct? Even if the coil is bad, I know that this is not causing the occillations because it happens when the coil is unplugged. It seems like this should have happened to someone in the past. I know I'm not the only one with a 95 legacy with close to 200,000 miles on it.

Ok...I got the ignition relay out. That was an enduring task let me tell you! And I think that it might be my problem. When I unplugged it and turned my key to on, no more AC compressor clicking, no more relays clicking. I tried to start it but kinda figured it wouldn't work with out the relay in. Now, I guess I'll have to wait till monday to see how badly the subaru dealer is going to rape me on the price of the relay. By the way, is there any way I can test it to see if i should buy the new one? Thanks again.

I found where the relay is but its like impossible to remove! It is above the fuse box under the dash board. Its a brown relay with a brown connector clip....The fuseable link is also fine. I checked it. When I disconnect it there is no electricity to anything so its still good...........................I really need to get to sleep though now, I have to work at 4:30 AM. I'll let you know if i figure anything out though. Thanks for your help so far.

with the key on i get no voltage going from the middle hole to ground, should i have someone try to crank it????

what should i put the negative wire to, just any metal on the car or what?

when i tested the 3 connector pins I got 0 resistance between them. from 3 to 1 and 2 to 1 and 2 to 3 all 0 resistance. As far as the plug wire holes i was in the range that you said i think like 12.7 or something. This could be the problem BUT when I put my key to the on position with the coil disconected, the relays and stuff are still acting up. Would that stop if it was disconected?

Yes , i have a high impedence ohm meter. Keep in mind I am not a mechanic so I don't really know what and where everyhting is. Now, the coil pack is that square thing that all the spark plug wires are coming out of right? Should i check the resistance with the key on or without any power going through it? I'm gonna try it with out power goingthrough it now. It should come up with very little to no resistance if it is in working condition right?

When I turn my key to the on position, The AC compressor clicks really loud and rapidly so I don't think that normally happens when the engine is running. It is so loud that I feel i have to be cautious not to leave it on too long. My check engine light has come on before so I know the light actually works but i dont think it has ever come on when I first started my car. I know I already asked this but could it be the ignition coil, or does that not make any sense?