ronnie johhhnnn

Sorry, I must have not made it clear in my original post. I did check my timing belt and it is not broken. I also checked to see if there was spark at the plugs and there is not. I am getting fuel so it is not my fuel pump. I don't think that checking codes will help me either because there is not a check engine light on. I am starting to think that it may be a coil but I am not sure that that would cause all of those relays to click rapidly. Thank you for your replys though. I'm glad to learn that my car is non-interference so I don't have to be as worried about the t-belt breaking. Is there anyone who has flowcharts of the electrical systems on these cars? I think that could help me to narrow down my problem.

I was driving on the freeway and all the sudden my RPMs went down to 0. I still had electricity to everything but my car was making clicking noises. At first I thought the timing belt broke cause I am over due in changing it, but it didn't. When I try to start it it cranks and cranks but doesn't start. When the key is in the "on" position there is clicking coming from the AC compressor, The AC relays and the Main fan relay under the dash board. I'm pretty sure that the actual relays are not my problem cause I can switch them around and it will still be the same consistant ones that click. I also am not getting any spark to my plugs. I don't really know what to check next and I really don't want to have to fork over $100 an hour at the dealer for them to troubleshoot it. If anyone has any suggestions PLEASE respond. Thanks.

I was wondering if anyone has one of these racks on their legacy. I'm thinking about getting some racks but I can't figure out how it is going to mount. If anyone has any pics of theres, please post them. Thanks

It would be very awesome if I could get someone that knows a lot about webers and subarus to help me out. I know that all the other stuff could be fixed pretty easily. I have read up a lot about wheel bearing replacement, the axles are easy, and the breaks seem easy. I also have a friend that could weld up a custom exhaust for me. If I could get the car running normally, I could decide then if its worth it for me to fix all the other stuff. The most deciding factor will probably be the gas mileage. I would be willing to drive down to columbus and throw down some cash to get this thing running right. It will probably be an easy fix for people that know what they're doing. All the emmisions stuff is off, which leaves a lot less stuff to be causing the vacume leak. I'll explain everything in more detail to whoever wants to help.

It just seems like it would definatly not be needed and would cause more headaches than it would be worth. I liked being able to choose for myself when I wanted it in 4wd(before my axle went of course). I have also heard about them having binding issues.

I've got a D/R 87 gl wagon right now with a weber on it and its just not doin it for me. The thing is almost undrivably slow and its starting to fall apart. Right now its rear wheel drive(no front axels), idles poorly(most likely a vacume leak), Gets only about 18 MPG, I have to adjust the manual choke all the time while driving to be able to accelerate, throttle cable sticks bad, exhaust leaks bad, breaks are going soon, and a front wheel bearing is probably going. For a while I was planning on trying to fix the vacume leak and getting the carb tuned correctly so that it would run decent but with all this stuff starting to go, I'm not sure that I want to put all the time and $$$ into it just to have a good runnning really slow car. I've got about $2k to throw around so I was thinking about getting something a little newer like a legacy or something but I don't think I like the idea of the full time AWD. The main reason I'm still holding on to this car I have is because nothing is really wrong with it now, its just gonna start going soon. It starts up every time for me and gets me where I need to go, and its not rusted out at all so its pretty easy to work on (pretty rare to find anything older than 5 years not rusted in Ohio). So, my question is, should I get rid of it and go for a newer wagon, or should I try to tackel its problems and drive it till it explodes? Also, If anyone has a good wagon for sale anywhere near Ohio for around $2k, let me know Thanks.

hmmmm... I got it all back together already but I should have it apart in the next couple weeks. I'm going to be putting new speakers in so I'll take some pictures then. I also need to learn how to add pictures to my post. The only advice I can give now is to move the door latch with your finger and see what moves from the inside. The thing you need to bend is the thing in the middle that seems to move the least. Ill get a picture up when I can.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get rid of the annoying feature on my 87 wagon? I dont want to have to hold the handle up anymore to lock the doors. The driver side isnt bad but when you try to do it on the passenger side, it is hard to close the door. It ends up being a big hassle because the dome light will stay on and my battery will get low. Ive got the door apart right now but it looks more complicated than i thought. I was thinking it would just be some tab i could break off or somethign but i cant see anything like that. Any help would be appreciated. -----------------I figured it out, Not too hard actually. All I had to do was bend a small piece of metal. Now, I need to make sure I never lock my keys in the car or I'll kick my own rump roast.

You people are awesome!! I've already talked to some of you through private messages but if there is anyone else who wants to find out some info for me private message me and I'll give the address.

I need to know if anyone is near Elizabethtown, PA because I need someone to check on a person there. I am currently getting robbed by this guy there through Ebay. I sent half the cash for an 87 turbo gl wagon (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2497680768&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOAB:US:6) and he backed out the day before i was supposed to get it. He has not sent my money back and is not answering his phone. If anyone lives near there please respond because I want to try to learn more about this guy before I try to do anything about it. Thanks.

I would really like to get this working cause I need to be able to drive it. This weekend is the onlytime Ill be able to work on it until next weekend and I dont want to have to borrow a car all week.

I understand that these sometimes need a fuel pump with a regulator but why would it put out more fuel with less pressure??? Mine is dumping fuel and its the stock pump. Doesnt make sense to me. Could it be the jets that are in it??? Im not sure what are in there but its probably not what should be. I also would like to know what the stock pressure is on the fuel pump in there. I think that I had the misunderstanding that it is about 2 psi but after doing tons of searches, I think that is only on the EA-81s. Am I correct that my 87 has about 5 psi stock?? It also seems as though no one has successfully weberized an ea 82. I am yet to see someone posting that there weber is working correctly on an ea-82.

We just put a dgev 32/36 weber on my 87 gl wagon and were trying to get it running correctly. We ran into the usual problems (power steering pump in way, coolant passage leak) but were able to get by those. Now, it runs pretty well with the choke on all the way, and maybe even at half ok, but with no choke on it wont idle at all. It seems like there is a vacume leak somewhere by the symptoms but we can't find it. When we took it for a test drive (before antifreeze blew everywhere) it drove very well besides it stalling when idling. It had much more torque which was awesome. After we fixed the antifreeze problem we were gonna take it for another test drive but we noticed a loud gergling noise coming from the carb. When removing the airbox, we opened the butterfly valve a little and noticed that it was dumping fuel like hell in there!!?? Were gonna continue with it tomarrow and try to figure this out. Any suggestions would be great. I have searched and searched and can't find what i need to find. Thanks in advance.

I know a long time ago, I found a thread all about removing all the emissions stuff before putting a weber on an EA-82. I can't seem to find it again and I'm about to be doing just that. If anyone knows what i am talking about please let me know. I know there was all kinds of useful stuff on there about what vacume lines to plug and which to pull. Thanks.

Problem solved!!!!!!!!! It was the connection at the battery terminals. I filed them down and it works better than ever now. Thanks to all of you for your speedy responses. I dont know what i would have done without this forum. Thanks again!

Sorry I'm not too familiar with mechanical terminology because i am not a mechanic (and far from it). But the "Spade" wire you are refering to... Is that the wire that slides on the starter? I just ran a hot wire from the battery to the the small connector and it clicks really loud but does not try to turn over, but i dont think it would due to the fact there is no electricity to any other place in the car.

When I turn the key, no lights or anything come on. No interior lights or headlights or anything electrical works. I checked all 3 fusable links with a continuity tester and they all have no resistance. I even tried putting the old starter back in and there is still no power to anything so it can't be the new starter. Is there a way i can bypass the starter and somehow get electricity without it? Also, I have a feeling the main battery wires are slightly bad because when i check the voltage at the battery, its 12V but at the ends of the wires (at the starter) its about 10V. I know that this is a problem but it should still be lighting the interior dimmly, shouldnt it??? I don't think that low voltage would stop all electricity from working.

There are three connections am I correct? One from the positive of the battery to the starter, one from the negative to the top bolt of the starter, and the little one that goes from the starter to inside the dash. The reason I asked about the fuses is because I accidentally sparked the battery wires when trying to connect to the starter. I checked the fusable links and they are fine.

Are there more fuses than just under the steering wheel??? I just put a new starter in and now I have no power at all. I turn the key and nothin happens!! I checked for continunity between the major cables that go from the battery to the starter and there all good. The battery has the full 12V also. I don't know what to do next???

On my 87 gl Wagon I've got 185/70/r13s in the front and 185/80/r13s in the back because I found them cheap at a junkyard. I tried to put it in 4WD and it went crazy (obviously). I had to struggle to get it back in FWD. I have an axle going bad and I was just gonna remove it and have it be rear wheel drive but I dont know if that would work. Would it bind up like it did before or will it work fine in rear wheel drive?

This may be a dumb answer but it is something that I always overlook. Check the fuse.

The quality of that picture is good enough. Thank you. I'm interested to see the rest of them so I can decide if I want to go through with it.

Has anyone ever done this? If not, Do you think it's possible? What are all the parts i would need to get it working? The front end is quite apart right now do to an accident so I figure if im gonna try, I should do it now.

Alright, I'm looking into buying a 32/36 DGEV weber and I am trying to get the best price for the right stuff. I have found that i can get the full Kit for the EA82's from carbsunlimited.com for like $335 but i have been researching on this forum and have heard that some things dont match up in those kits. I have also found a new one on ebay for $245 and i have a friend that said he would be willing to make the adapter plate. Should i just go with the cheaper one if the kit isn't even going to be an exact fit??? It's going on an 87 GL wagon. ALSO, I am a bit confused with the whole "jetting" of the carb. Will the kit from carbsunlimited be "jetted" correctly and the same as the one on ebay??? Thanks a lot to anyone who replies to this. -Nathan

I just bought a carborated 87 Gl wagon about a week ago and im trying to get it so i can drive it all the time. It runs decent but i am getting bad gas mileage (about 15 MPG) and it idles really high. What is strange is that it idles around 1000 when it is cold and 2200 when warmed up??!! The EGR light is on also. There is no vacume at all going to the egr valve but i cant find a disconected line or a leak. I would appreaciate it very much if anyone could tell me where a common place for a vacume leak is, or if anyone has any suggestions about anything, that would be great. Thanks -Nathan