BillAileo

I believe all new Subarus sold in North America since MY 1996 are OBD-II ciompliant. Does AutoZone have stores in Canada? Many U.S. AutoZones will read codes free... Bill

You've indicated four codes were pulled from your Forester: p0113, p0118, p1298 and p1509. These codes correspond respectively to: an intake Air Temperature input that is too high, an engine coolant temperature circuit input that is too high, an Injector Drive Module failure, and an idle control system circuit shorted. Some of this could hopefully be the result of bad sensors and/or bad wiring. Has anything in particular been done to the car before these codes appeared? Bill

I would join in the recommendation that you replace the rotors. In addition to the symptoms you've reported, you also noted that the guys who turned the rotors noted heat damage. It has been my impression (perhaps incorrect) that once you've got a heat damaged rotor it's time to get new ones.... Bill

To the best of my knowledge the OBD-II [On-Board Diagnostics] system became mandatory for all new vehicles in the U.S. on January 1, 1996. I am certain that the 1996 Subaru's are OBD-II compliant because I owned one for 150,000 miles and I often used an OBD-II reader on it. AutoZone, or any other shop with an OBD-II reader, ought to be able to read it. Before uniformity was imposed in '96, vehicle manufacturors had varying setups. Bill

And if you can take it to an AutoZone you should be able to get the code read free.... Bill

From my personal experience, I would highly recommend either sticking with OEM and planning on replacing the wires after about three years, or, if you are going to keep the car a long time, make the substantial investment in Magnacor wires. Avoid the bargain sets at autoparts stores. Bill

We have had an Outback and a Forester. I concur in rweddy's comments. I would add that I preferred the Outback for long interstate trips because it seemed it was quieter and had a lower center of gravity. They are both dependable and relatively easy to maintain vehicles. Bill

The procedures in regard to obtaining title to an abandoned car are state specific. Based upon your posting information, I assume the car is in California. You might want to look up some of the information avalable on the California DMV site: http://www.dmv.ca.gov/vr/salvage.htm My guess is that, if you really want this car, you will end up wishing you had dealt with the prior owners before they departed. You could end up spending a heck of a lot of time trying to get title to it now.... Bill

Dave, I don't think the parts guy understands what he is selling. In my experience, the only "gasket" involved in putting on a Subaru filter is the large rubber one built into the base of the filter. Your instinct about the ones sold you being for the oil drain plug is probably correct. Bill

With 150,000 miles and no idea what work has been done, I'd recommend you add the following to the list of things to do, assuming you like to work on the car: replace the brake fluid replace the antifreeze when you do the timing belt pay close attention to the crankshaft oil seal and if there is any sign of a leak (a common occurance) replace it while you have the belt off. stick with OE when you replace the wires the fuel filter lasts a long time, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace it check the other belts, if they are still original they will probably show signs of wear and warrant replacement check the brake pads and replace if warranted on the transaxle and differential I would make sure the fluid levels are right, but I wouldn't be in a hurry to replace them unless problems are evident with 150,000 miles I wouldn't be surprised to learn you'll need new front struts one of these days (if the originals are still on) .... Good luck with the car. Bill

FWIW: I had similar problems on a 96 Legacy and one time it turned out to be the plug wire (which "looked" fine but wasn't) the other time it was the coil pack. Bill

I join in suggesting you do a thorough job of cleaning the area of the right rear pads/rotor/dust deflector. I once experienced such a noise and rushed out to buy new pads only to find a piece of very hard grit lodged between the dirt deflector and the rotor that somehow stayed there and made awful noises....

Are you sure you want to make these brake changes? I had a '96 for over 150,000 miles and was quite happy with the performance of the OE brakes. Why not just go for new rotors & rebuilt calipers if you need them (in my experience, needing new rotors hasn't always meant I needed new calipers). Good luck, Bill

Jeff, As Ed noted, you need to get the error code(s) read. From my experience with several family Subarus likely problems include: gas cap not put on tightly after a fill up, or a bad crankshaft position sensor, or a bad camshaft position sensor Of course there are many other possibilities, but these are what I had come with with ours at about that milelage. Good luck. Bill

Any chance the fuel cap was not put on tightly? That can generate an intermittent check engine light.