esteveW

I have been parting out an '87 GL wagon for the tranny and drive train. This car body has serious rust in every fender (rear lower corner). However all doors, hood and windshield are (were) in perfect condition so I expected to make some easy money on them. Not going to happen with the hood. The long story. I do my parting out on my flat deck trailer since I ultimately need it on the trail for the trip to the scrap buyer. Well, I needed the trailer for another project and the wheels were still on the GL, I just rolled it down the ramps. No seats in it so I couldn't ride it down. So it rolled easier than I expected and came to a halt when it hit the rear of my travel trailer. At first I was worried that I had damaged the rear ladder on the trailer but then I remembered, This car also had perfect bumpers and I had just removed the front one to sell as well. You guessed it! With out the bumper the RV ladder crushed that "perfect hood". Anybody need some bumper or doors?? Put me out of my shame and dispair. Steve

Good point on cutting the core support. When I part out Geo Metro's I cut the frame rails, just behind the crush crimps and up the inter fender wall which gives me a front clip. These come in handy if I find a nice car that has been hit in front. It's an easy repair, especially if you cut just forward of the strut towers. Done a couple that way. No bent frame problems to effect alignment. My personal, Daily Driver, is rebuilt that way and had zero problem with the front end alignment. (BTW. I never sell a car that has that extensive repair, due to liability. Just for myself or help someone else repair theirs.). I'd like to do a front clip replacement of a Subaru, but what I'm seeing around here, is nice body's but rusting fender wells. So Sad! Steve

True! And that may be the way that the combo was installed on the assembly line. However, I want to avoid having to raise the car that high, for clearance under the car, for removal. I use an overhead hoist (or cherry picker boom on my fork lift) on almost all the cars I Part-Out. I generally raise the car on stands or cinder blocks about 12-14" just enough for me to slide under for essential disconnects. The car stays at this height until all salvageable parts are removed and then I chain it down and head for the metal salvage yard (where they actually Pay Me for the metal weight. For a car this size, it is now about 75 to 100 bucks). Hell, the last Geo Metro I took in, no engine, drive train, seats, steering. Just the carcus and I got $75. Sorry, off topic! Basically I prefer to spend a minimum amount of time under the car and once I set it on car stands or blocks, not have to move it again. My trailer bed becomes my work bench and I can move it in and out of the shop as I want to work on it. I'm not a salvage yard (so I tell the county inspector). I just part out and rebuild specific makes/models of cars. I have switched my interest to the Subaru for now since I have a EJ22 engine and a cute 79 Brat. And the EA82 GL wagon was a steal, compared to paying a 100 here and there for tanny and parts I need for the EJ to Brat swap. Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. Steve

Here is a touchy question. Since the '79 Brat didn't have a Cat (or I see no evidence of one). Should I bother with one. I live in an area that doesn't require a smog check. Or is the Law going to hold me to the 92 standard for the EJ engine?? Not planning to go try and sneak anything buy, but don't want to add equipment that isn't required. Steve

Yes, that would work. Hadn't occured to me. I've never worked on a car with as much room around the engine, especially the tranny/bell housing. Starter is so easy to get to and the clutch adjustment, etc.. Steve

I already have my EJ22 engine and the car is long gone to the crusher. The only exhaust I have is from the front of the Cat. forward. (didn't get the Cat). I realize that I will have to modify what I have for the cross memembers, etc.. Where do I go for the rest. The 2.2L has a much larger exhaust than the old 1.6L in the Brat. And it had no Cat.. My donor car, EA82 GL wagon, has a near complete exhaust. (someone has stolen the Cat..) but that exhaust size might still be to small. I think I remember reading someplace that I need 1.75" dia. pipe size. Which means I need the larger Cat as well. I don't know how it works other places but the wrecking yards can't legally sell any part of the exhaust system. Especially the Catalitic converter. I,ve had trouble getting them to sell me a muffler. Also the first thing they do, here, is cut out the Cats. to deter theft (by the meth-heads). What has been you-all's experience in this type of swap and exhaust system. Steve

I'm parting out a '87 GL 5spd DR and the procedure in the manual addresses pulling the engine or tranny seperately. I would almost bet that they are installed on the assembly line as a unit. I do my parting out on my trailer so I can just haul off the carcus to the scrap yard with out handling problems. The deck of the trailer also gives me a nice working height and clear area to work on. The procedure for pulling the tranny involves dropping it which require the chassis to be raised high enough for removal. Higher than I normally would since I don't work on a creeper. It looks like there is plenty of room to pull the whole thing thru the engine compartment. Opinions and experiences welcomed. Steve

That sounds encouraging. However, since I'm Swapping an EJ22 in and from what I have seen the room on the frame rail, near the Master Cylinder will be limited. I believe the orientation and solid mount is critical to the "trim" and fine adjustment to this. (after reading the procedures in the manual) The cable shouldn't be that much of a problem since I'm using the EA82 tranny, just the routing and length of the cable, might be. Thanks for the reply Steve

While I was stripping my EA82 GL donor car, for the tranny and drive train. I noticed an extra cable coming off the clutch release lever. I couldn't see where it was going and didn't take the time to follow it to the other end. It's raining outside now (typical WA weather for Jan), so I'm setting here looking thru the Haynes manual, clutch section and Walla! there it is "Hill Holder". I'm new to Subarue's but not to cars in general. I had never heard of a Hill Holder. I always rely on the hand parking brake in exptreme situations. And curse when I'm in a stick shift and have only a foot operated parking brake. How well does the Hill Holder work. Sounds interesting and seems well engineered idea. How difficult would it be to put this on my Brat?? (If I can find the room in the engine room/rail. Very interesting conept:banana: Comments and experiences in the GL or transpantation. Steve

I'm parting out my donor 87 GL EA82 for the EJ22 swap into my '79 Brat. Mainly I'm using the 5 spd DR tanny and what ever else will work. I'm following the EJ22 to EA82 swap procedure but trying to apply this to my Brat. Since my Gen1 Brat has manual steering I'm thinking, as other have, putting the Power steering Rack and Pinion in and adapting the Legacy pump hoses to that. Will this work and what mechancial stuff will I have to modify. Tie rods, ends etc.. It looks like the gear box input shaft should fit up like the old manual system. Can I use the 87 steering column or stick with the old one. Hmmm! I sure like those RX steering wheels. Looking for an opportunity to 'snag' on and install it in the Brat.. comments, suggestions and links would be appreciated. Steve

I think my second guess might be correct. I couldn't detect any movement on #1 cylinder. I poked a stiff wire down each spark plug hole to detect when each piston came up to TDC. #2,3 & 4 seemed to move but nothing on #1. It started raining so "I threw in the towel", so to speak. No sense pulling the pan, there is definately something broken so I will haul it up on my trailer and begin the stripping and parting out process. I'll post a list of all the goodies soon. I'm only in it for the tranny and drive train. Steve

I picked up this ea82, '87, NA, carbed yesterday. Had been abandon and hadn't been run for a few years. "Supposed" to have been running when parked. Surprisingly low 137K miles for the year. No keys, no battery of course and someone had stolen the distributor. This morning, before setting ouit to find a junk yard distributor, I thought I should try and "Wrench" it over to see if it was frozen. I was going to squrt some oil in the cyilinders and noticed that the right bank spark plugs were removed (gone). Pulled the left and found them normal, now oil, nice tan and not rust or evidence in any cylinder of water. I got a socket and ratchet on the pulley nut and was able to get it to turn but it stopped after about 350 degrees. It was a solid feel and I didn't force it. I then turned it CCW and found the same in that direction. I just came in to research and verify if this engine was a non-interferance engine and being a ea82, I'm given to understand this is true. I haven't pulled the timing belt covers yet but even if one was broken the valves wouldn't hit the pistons and I wouldn't be able to turn it nearly 360 degrees. I think I should try a wire probe into each cylinder and see if I'm getting full travel on each piston. Could be a broken rod... I really don't want to spend too much time on this engine since I got the car for the 5spd DR tanny and drive train for my Brat (ej22 swap). I just thought I should determine the engine condition while it was still in the car. Comments and opinions welcome Steve

Yep! I took one tire off my Brat just in case but it turned out that only one of the original tires was flat, a front one. The others had just settled into the soft ground and looked flat. Also noticed that the rear plate was 2007 so the car has been moved in the last 3 years, or perhaps it was run.. The person I got it from was unsure of it's history. From the moss one it I'd say it has been setting for more than 3 yrs. Steve

I'm thinking along the same line. I found another 87 carb'ed NA in the yard this week but couldn't get a deal for the whole car (cheaper way to get the whole drive train, etc.). The distributor was still in that car, If I can't strip parts off that car then at least I can determine what distributor is has and go look at other Carb'ed cars. Before I go to the junk yard, I want to make sure this engine will turn over. I can determine that with a 18mm wrench in the crank pulley nut. Then I need to get it to fire up long enough to warm it up and get hot compression readings. Even if I opt not to use this engine, now, I will have a bit of history "for the record" and future use. Thanks, Steve

I just picked up (towed home) a 87 EA82, NA, carb. (Hitachi, I thnk). 5spd DR. Someone had stolen the Distributor and the Cat. converter. I'm going to the junk yard tomorrow and get a distributor. I have noticed several discriptions in my Haynes manual and there is a (sorta) chart there giving years, etc.. It looks like I should look for a Hitachi or a NipponDenso but which?? I would be OK with this chart, but don't know if this car is Calif, Federal or Canada. I will have the same problem at the junk yard, maybe more so, since there is very little left in the junkers to tell what their intended use was. Is there any other configuration detail I should be looking for? thanks, Steve

I just picked up a 87 GL wagon, 5spd DR, NA carb. and it only has 137k miles. I haven't been able to start it yet because someone stole the distributor and cat. converter. It has been setting since (or was last plated) in 2007.. How many miles are most getting out of the timing belts and tensioners. A couple days ago, I went to look at the same engine set up and he had just changed his timing belts at 253k along with tensioners. He had only owned the car for a few years so was unsure if or when they had been changed previously. I should mention, I got this car for the drive train and intially I don't plan to use the EA82 engine in my Brat swap. I just got it for the drive train and a few other goodies. However, I want to get a clear idea of the condition of the engine while I still have it in the car. I'll try to turn the engine with a wrench tomorrow and if free, I will go get a distributer and see if I can get it to start for compression readings. Is there anyway to see the condition of the belts without removing the covers. View hole or something. Thanks, Steve

Made it home on the original set of tires. The fellow I got it from thought they all were flat but it turned out that they has just settled in to the soft ground. The right front was flat but it held air and is still up now. This car was a good "Score"!! '87 GL wagon with only (for a subaru) 137k miles. The only thing missing off the engine was the distributer. Couldn't try to roll it over since No Keys or battery. Now that I'm home (and once it stops raining) I will put a wrench on the engine and see if it will turn over. Some Meth-Head has stolen the Cat. converter Recent saw cuts. The body has some rust through and very wet interior. I don't think I will try and fix it up since I wanted it for the drive train. Anyone else could make it a daily driver. On the title!! Here in WA we have to have a title before we can take it to a scrap yard. If it is declared abandon, by the County "Clean up Inspector" he will take pictures, find the last owners name and address. With his paper work, I have to send the last owner a demand letter, to claim/remove it with in 10 days. After waiting the 10 days, if he doesn't respond, I can junk it with the County Inspectors paper. Or I can take it to the State Inspection Station and have the VIN and equipment verified (he's looking for motor or major parts from stolen vehicles). I then pay a $50 inpection fee and other state licensing fees and will get a "reconstructed" title. In my experience, these titles are NOT branded, since they were never declared TOTALLed. This will only work if the vehicle has the appearance of a Junker. Don't start cleaning or restoring missing stuff until after the first Junker inspection, by the county. Thanks for all the interest and advice. Steve

Thanks, However it's north east of me in Graham. Was found abandon in a pasture. I'll have to deal with the paper work but I want the tranny. It should be a 87ish ea82 but don't know if it is a turbo. I hope not. But if I'm getting the whole car and that means I have the drive train, axles and differental from end to end. I hope the ground isn't too soft since all the rain. My truck is 4x4 but winching the car onto the dolly may be a problem on low tires and soft ground. I have a really crappy winch on my dolly. I'd take my trailer with a new electric winch but the steer on the car is locked (no keys) and guiding it up the ramps could be a problem. I don't want to deal with disconnecting the steering column right now. Dolly line-up will be much easier. Steve

That is what I'm worried about. I'll take a couple of my Brat tires. If it were a week day (non holiday), I'd just stop by the local junk yard and get a couple spares. Steve

Great, that would work, since the he will have all the tires pumped up when I get there and the fronts will be on the dolly. If the fronts go flat, not a problem. I just tighten the tire straps. I appreciate the quick reply and good news. Steve

I'm going to pick up a Donor car tomorrow that hasn't been on the road for 10 years. It was moved recently so I know the wheels roll and brakes are released (I'm told). However, the seller says the tires go flat after a month or so which causes me some concern since I want to haul it on my dolly. Since it is 5spd D/R I can put it the transfer case in 2 WD (front) and leave the rear wheels on the ground. There is no spare and it's to late to go to the junk yard for and extra tire or spare. The Donor car is about a 87 wagon and I'm not sure of the wheel or bolt pattern. I have a Gen1 Brat here with a couple extra wheels and I could rob it for a spare tire if the bolt pattern is the same. Will this work?? I have about 120 miles of freeway driving and don't want to have to swap front tires to rear if I have a tire go out. It wouldn't be easy to take a tire off the front while the car is on the dolly. Suggestions or comments welcome. Steve

Thanks for the "heads-Up" on the EA82. I was really looking for a carb'ed engine when I came across this one. Also the 5 spd DR tranny is still important find to me. The carb'd engine would make for a quick change over to a engine that will work directly with the 5 spd tanny. The car is still driveable and plated (title hasn't been totaled yet) so I may just drive it for a while and see how everything else checks out.. Never owned a Soobie before my Brat and it isn't titled right now. Looks like fun to play with. Well engineered engines, compared to the Vanagon WaterBoxers I have around here. Steve

The shame of it is, they have a nice (90% tread) tires that will fit my F150 truck and when I went back to the counter to ask a price, I got him again. He seemed to go out of his way to "serve" me. The price was close to what I had in mind but I wasn't going the "haggle" with him or his attitude. Steve

So far, I have checked a half dozen trannys and only one had a readable Model label on the bell housing. Most were missing all together. I could see where they had been. Only one had a engine compartment label plate. It was on the left (drive) side strut tower. Recenty, I have been just observing the engine type ea81 or ea82, turbo or non turbo. I couldn't tell much about the actual gearing. However, since I'm not off roading, what ever the donor vehicle was intended for is my only guide. I've learned and still learning a lot. Steve

I'm beginning to understand and really appreciate all the input. I just printed out the info submitted so far and made a quick trip to my friendly junk yard, armed with this info and found what I was looking for. A 1987 (mgf date 01/87) wagon with 5 spd DR 187k miles and a carborated 1.8 ea82 engine. (correct me it I'm wrong) Single Overhead Cam. Car had front end damage but engine survived and turns over with good compression. I'm going to try and purchase the whole car and take the whole drive train and put it in my EA71 Brat. I'll save my EJ22 engine for another, more deserving project. And if the 1.8 doesn't work out, at least I will already have the transmission/drive train and PS in the Brat. I should hear from the yard owner tomorrow. I have really got a lot of good use out of this Thread and if this info wasn't already consoludated on this site, it sure is now. Thanks Steve