87.5ea82txt

Right on. Thanks for the input, guys. I haven't been on here in a long time since I parked my rusty XT a few years ago. I'm assuming the 2.2 loyales never came with a dual range transmission, correct?

I found a guy willing to sell me his 1998 legacy wagon with 164k on the dash for $1100. I haven't seen it yet, but he said it runs and drives. It started running rough, so he took it to auto zone and the code came back oxygen sensors. He said the rear brake line started to leak where it comes through the inside in the back and he pinched it off, so it only has front brakes at the moment. Another thing he mentioned is that the shifter is very loose and sloppy, but it does shift fine. I'm thinking worn out shift bushings. I'm an ea subaru guy and know nothing about newer legacys. Would this be a decent buy and what advice would you give me when looking at it?

Too late... he just sold it. I asked, and he said it wasn't overheating. Just leaking. Oh well. Maybe I'll get lucky and eventually something with a dual range might come along.

Long time, no Subaru. My Xt has been out for the count for the last few years with a blown headgasket and severe underbody rust. I saw this loyale on Craigslist for $400. Dude says it needs a water pump. Should I be wary of a blown head gasket? Being single range, would this car be decent for mild offroading if I install a 2" lift and 28" tires? (I already have the lift and wheels+tires) https://stlouis.craigslist.org/cto/5836457592.html Anyone interested in buying a rusty intercooled 87.5 Xt awd turbo with $2,500 worth of new parts? It was my daily before I parked it.

That is crazy! Hell, I usually leave the keys in mine. Seems most people have a hard time opening the doors anyways. When I was in college, my roommate had his mustang stolen. A few months later he found it parked at a gas station. He just got in it and drove it home lol.

Front struts are easy to replace. Remove the outer sway bar bolts, lower strut bolts, then the strut tower bolts. You can get spring compressors for around $50. You should be able to change them in an afternoon with plenty of beer breaks. Use a jack to raise and lower the arms while you are disassembling/reassembling to make it easier to line up the holes.

Check the blower motor. If it is good, you may need to replace the set of resisters or the solenoid for fan speed 4.

There is a line on the intake that connects to the valve cover. Could I just put a small filter on the valve cover or will it effect performance if it is not connected to intake?

I've searched every junkyard, every craigslist ad... in my part of the country, we have no ea82 Subarus:(

This is kind of what I'm working with at the moment.

Ah, thanks for the link. Seems to be more reasons to do it than to not. Only thing is, I'll need to figure out where to incorporate a blow off valve. I saw a 2.5" adapter pipe, but it would be silly to have all kinds of different pipe sizes. Maybe I could just weld it to the steel pipe that I'm using now.

I've seen people put the maf right before the throttle body. I've read that the added volume between the two from an intercooler can cause issues with throttle response, but wasn't sure if going from a cool vacuum to hot pressure would have a negative effect on the maf's readings or longevity. I have a thunderbird intercooler connected directly to the turbo and about two feet of 3" piping from its outlet to the throttle body, so it's not a huge volume of air. I did a search for custom intake piping and found a site that had these adapters that you could drill a hole in the side of a pipe and insert a rubber grommet and your barb adapter into it to connect various sized vacuum lines. I'll have to measure the maf and turbo inlet, but I believe the maf is 3" and the turbo 2.25, so I may get a 3" elbow with a 6" leg and use a reducer hose to connect to the turbo.

I also haven't replaced the pcv valve or cleaned the egr valve. Would that have a noticeable impact on performance?

I cut some material away on the end of the hose and used a dremel to smooth out the inside so I could slide the hose a little further down on the turbo inlet. I also used a hose clamp instead of the wire one so I could get a wider grip on the hose to help keep it sealed. I guess it will have to do for now... I fired it up and it runs much better now, but still has a slight miss only noticeable at idle.

Ok I think I found the problem! I removed the rubber intake pipe that goes between the maf and the turbo inlet and discovered a large crack around where it clamps to the turbo. I've kind of been wanting to replace it with a shorter pipe to make room for the air filter so I remove the 90° elbow I have between the filter and the maf. The only issue I see is going to be able to make the ports for the three small hoses that connect to it in various places. Do you know how I should go about doing this?