574-240sx

Car was resold to my roommate because he wanted it. I was going to yank the powertrain then send if off to get scrapped. New struts and it doesn't ride bad. Tow strap was 50ft and it was tied about 15 foot up the branch. The branch wasn't that long due to a thunderstorm last year that took some of the end off. It wasn't exactly the safest thing to do but it was pretty fun at the time.

No its not a daily just a Legacy L I picked up not running for dirt cheap, fixed it. Had some fun with it then sold it. Video was from a cell phone and its very dark and hard to see.

Finally got my brother to upload the videos, that is him commenting. I'm driving, friend Rob in the backround, roommate Pat directing me. And yes the rear of the car gets that much air.

pad wearing unevenly could be caused by weak calipers, sticky slide pins, crappy pads, etc. Best bet is to check the pins and see if they are binding up, sticking, froze, etc. Clean regrease pins or you may and to do a new pin/boot kit or even replacing the pin/caliper brackets with a new/remaned unit. As for the rust lip on the outside sometimes that just for weathing and in some cases cause a noise. I have also seen really cheap rotor no being proper diameter too cause a small rust lip on the outer diameter of the rotor. You should be fine for a few months but I would save for new rotor and pads.

I agree after rereading it sounds like they took apart alot more then they were suppose to or broke something they had no business touching.

Sounds like they beat on the knuckle to get the tie rod end to pop off and broke the knuckle where the tie rod end bolts too. I would think the lower ball joint was old/rubber was cracking old/fell apart if they were replacing the knuckle. Ask to see the old parts, if they broke the knuckle they should pay for it. I'm a mechanic and yes parts do break sometimes.

In a few nissan auto to manual swaps I have done I just simply bypassed the neutral saftey switch so I could start the car.

An ethylene glycol (EG) antifreeze hydrometers don't read correctly if at all on newer propylene glycol (PG) antifreeze. Best bet may be to pick up a new one. Also you may want to look into coolant test strips to test the ph if you are checking if its bad.

I just used a socket on a breaker bar and had a friend hold it. I guess if you have a large enough breaker bar it would work without having someone to hold it. When I was putting the torque converter bolts back on I managed to hold the braker bar and tighten the bolts myself.

I just had this happen to me. I ended up taking the coolant hose off at the throttle body. I heated the bolt up with a torch had to change to the smallest tip and took awhile to heat up. At first used a chisle and a hammer. I got it to move a bit by hammering the chisle down on the left side of the bolt head to loosen it. I ended up grinding down a old air hammer bit really sharp to a point then hit it with the air hammer where I was previously chisling and it loosened up. I let it cool a bit then it came out just finger tight.

I'm not really worried yet about getting my money back I only paid $200 for the trans. I'm picking up a VLSD from an auto WRX for a really good price so hopefully this all works out well. Thanks for the info everyone this site has been the most helpfull out of all the Subaru forums I have been to yet.

I was told replacement trans was from a 95 Legacy Outback and it would work. Original trans was towed in neutral for 200 miles. I was told it would move the car but slip really bad. The car did move a bit but the shifter was really hard to move in and out of gear. So it looks like I need to find a 4.11 rear end. Would this effect the speedo too?

I have a 1996 Legacy GT Wagon 2.5L with the TZ102Z2AAA transmission that is currently bad. I recently picked up a trans from a 95 Outback trans code TZ102ZAAAA and told it would work. Everything plugged in and lined up. I switch the torque converters because the original one was bigger. Tomorrow I still need to install an alternator to get it going. I'm just having second thoughts that the trans won't work. I havn't started the car and drove it since installing the new trans. I recently read the gear ratio could be different and the TCU may not work with the trans. Where can I find my stock gear ratio and the gear ratio on the trans I just installed?