Mike104
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Posts posted by Mike104
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I've never had good luck with aftermarket coils on Subaru's. My go to is a pull and pay yard or buy one from an online Subaru dealer.
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I have a drivers side knuckle assembly with new bearing, new seals, new hub and new ball joint if you still need it
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one option is to get a price from KBB and deduct the cost of putting in an engine
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I think the 8.7 Volts at the small pin of the starter is your issue. Take a 1/4" female spade connector and crimp it to a 10-12 guage wire and then touch the other end (strip some of the insulation) to the positive terminal of your battery
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Thanks Rampage. The link opened for me though
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Thanks for letting us know. I had a 2004 Forester that the airbag light would come on if the seat was moved. Disconnect, reconnect always took care of it
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Here is a link to the file
I can't upload it as it is too large a file and since it it protected I can't optimize it
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My 99 OBW has 560,000 miles. Not sure what will give out first, second engine, second transmission or body from rust rot
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Coolant being displaced from radiator to overflow is a clear indication of head gasket issues (ask me how I know)
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I would get a used one from a pull and pay yard if you have one close to you. Aftermarket rebuilt units seem to be of dubious quality based on others comments in previous posts. At some point Subaru stopped selling rebuild kits but I don't recall which years are affected.
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Best option is a pull and pay auto wrecker or a used part from an auto wrecker. Cheap Chinese ones from chain auto parts stores don't have a good reputation as they can cause vibrations in idle.
Front or rear?
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You can also disconnect the negative battery terminal for 5 minutes to clear the code. If it is a continuing fault (check engine light comes on again) take it to a chain auto parts store to get the code read (make sure to get the PXXX number) and come back here for help.
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Pin out info here https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=36208128&postcount=9
A good resource is ae64.com for Subaru radio wiring info
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Go to https://parts.subaru.com put in your VIN and it will tell you which part number you need.
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Thanks for letting us know that the fix was
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22 hours ago, heartless said:
if the light is on, there is something in the system that is causing it.
the light does not come on for no reason whatsoever. a bad sensor, bad wiring, damage to the control unit (moisture or something) - something caused the light to trip.
And if the Airbag light is ON the airbags WILL NOT deploy in an accident
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2001 and 2005 are different Generations so I don't think they will interchange. Subaru parts website does not list part numbers for roof cross rails for either model year
91151AE000 R34 for 00-04 Outback
E361SAG020 for 2005-2007 Outback
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2 hours ago, ThosL said:
Seasonally, when the temperature changes, the heat and A/C will not work until the car is running. But it has to heat up for the heat to work. Is this a coolant flow issue or wiring with moisture maybe causing this? A friend wants to know.
Cabin heat is generated from engine coolant. If the engine is cold there is nothing to transfer heat to the interior. If there is a bad thermostat (staying open) it can make the warm up time longer. Not sure what vehicle you are talking about but if it has an temperature gauge it won't generally provide heat until the temperature indication is above cold.
In my case I have an idiot light for temperature (blue for cold, red for pull over now). When the outside air temperature is colder it takes longer to heat up.
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Airbag light on means a fault in the system and the airbags won't deploy in a crash. Could be a crash sensor, control unit or an air bag. I was able to fix my 03 Forester by putting in a unit from a pull and pay. I do believe their is a method to pull the fault codes out but I don't recall how its done.
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The P)420 code can be eliminated by the spark plug fouler modification. It places the rear O2 sensor further out of the exhaust stream to reduce the voltage sensed ending the code.
I've fixed several Misfire codes by putting in used OEM coils from a pull and pay yard. Make sure the wires are OEM or NGK.
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If you have an Automatic transmission and that is an Auto Parts store Chinese made junk you will get plenty of vibration when in gear stopped at idle. I would either return it or dress it back into place (soft face hammer and a block of hard wood).
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Thanks for letting us know the fix
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https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/brake-abs-and-traction-control-lights-flashing.504683/
https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/intermittent-abs-stability-and-brake-warning-lights.449337/
For similar issues, some were fixed by replacing brake light bulbs. Could also be a bad wheel sensor
Import engine + new gaskets or reman with 3 year warranty?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted · Edited by Mike104
I've done both a EJ20 JDM install and purchased a rebuilt CCR EJ25D engine for my Subies. My two data points don't mean squat but non the less I've had good luck with both. Apparently CCR is no longer in business and was taken over by someone else that didn't seem to have as good a reputation. My CCR engine has over 200k and the JDM engine is on it's second owner.
My son also replaced HGs on his EJ251 that eventually had rock knock (didn't know about the poor oil pump on those engines).
If I have to do this job again I would definitely go with the Subaru reman as it's a known quantity. Ebay, JDM and used engines are a crap shoot and you can get good and bad results. Few of us want to do this job over again.
Turbo MLS Subaru gaskets are the way to go (11044AA770). Some have used FelPro with varying results but lots of board experience with the turbo MLS gasket and it's the one Rick uses and recommends. Since he has done more HG jobs in a week than I have done in my lifetime, I'm going to take advantage of that experience.