Mike104
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Posts posted by Mike104
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Mitsuboshi is the OEM supplier to Subaru for the timing belt. Previous advice about Aisin kit or buying quality parts (NTN, NSK, KOYO) is spot on. Definitely replace the tensioner with a NTN part.
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On 7/22/2019 at 7:15 PM, el_freddo said:
Isn’t this exactly what @heartless did in the second reply??
I bet if everyone ignored the initial request because we don’t have the info the OP wants to read, the first reply would be from the OP with something along the lines of “really? No one? No info?”.
I’m keen to see this strut delete. The only one I’ve ever seen was on Phinzinza’s MY wagon that he used for jumping (and I’m talking HIGH!). He added an upper wishbone to hold the top of the hub where the strut usually did the job. Not road legal, not worth yours or someone else’s life on the open road!
To me the fabrication required for a strut delete is way more effort than swapping springs on struts or building a strut/spring combo to put on the vehicle. If the idea of spring compressors scare the bejesus out of you from some past bad experience, maybe you need to make something like this to do the work with:
Cheeky Russians have their spoob sorted! Quick, safe and easy!
If you’re looking at fabricating a strut delete in a Subaru I’m 100% sure you can build a device like this and sort out your current suspension.
Cheers
Bennie
Now that's shade tree engineering at its best!!
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1 hour ago, Zoltan said:
Thanks. I was told by Japan Direct that this is a 2004 Legacy JDM EJ20 non turbo and that it has an EGR valve. I will have to double check the crank'cam sprockets and sensors. I wonder if I will be able to tell without taking them off?
I would definitely do a full timing belt job on the replacement engine. Use the intake manifold that is currently installed in your car. When you pull off the crankshaft gear compare it to the one currently installed.
If the two match then you should be good, otherwise you will need to swap the crankshaft and drivers side camshaft gears from your original engine onto the JDM engine
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I remember reading a multiple page thread on another forum about a misfire (#4) that the guy changed every part in the car. Car had the head gaskets changed previously by some shop so the shop was reluctant to take the heads off. Eventually they did take the heads of and found a burnt #4 exhaust valve. Definitely something to remember if you get a misfire that isn't solved with NGK/OEM wires, NGK Plugs and an OEM coil.
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But all those diagnostic plugs, that’s a whole new world to look into. Boy they put a lot into these cars.
There are lots of people when working on their cars see those two plugs not connected and assume that they should be then get very concerned when fans start running, clicking noises in the passenger compartment and the Check Engine light comes on
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On 5/29/2019 at 8:18 AM, 3Pin said:
Not much bigger in the back and once the rear seats were up, no storage room.
Sounds like my wife's 2004 Ford Explorer 7 seats or luggage, pick one
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I ended up buying 4qts of the Subaru ATF-HP as I figured the cost difference between that and a generic fluid was way cheaper than a new transmission. I've heard some people use an Amsoil or Valvoline product but I don't have any good references to say they are compatible.
I believe the Subaru ATF-HP is made by Idemitsu Type HP Automatic Transmission Fluid that is available at some Auto Parts stores but is same price as Subaru ($8 a quart)
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I use the Raybestos coated rotors as well (I hate when the uncoated ones look rusty). Thanks for the tip on the Bosch pads and the new calipers
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19 hours ago, Ej22user said:
Hey, thanks for the reply!
These are what I'm referring to.
I think they are generally called locating dowels rather than piston pins.
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Try looking at http://opposedforces.com and look for a European version with the EJ20
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Here are the details from Subaru
https://subaru.oemdtc.com/80/engine-oil-consumption-2013-2015-subaru
100k miles/8 years
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On 5/15/2019 at 9:12 AM, Jadu108 said:
Sorry. 95 legacy.
There isn't a pre-pressed assembly for older models unfortunately.
General disorder. I had one Subaru shop here in Salt Lake(mark miller subie) say the exact same thing you did about Subaru not wanting to do it, but the other said they'd do it for like 200$(nate wade subie).
Honestly, I'm travelling, recovering from my other vehicle being totaled,and funds are limited as i still need to get home.
Honestly i bought a new bearing, but I'm gonna try and take the advice and go to the junk yard it this morning. I remember seeing a few good knuckles in the yard attatched to some fresh looking axles. Fingers crossed and Hopefully they are still there.
Did this job on the wife's 2004 Ford Explorer and the rears are available as an assembly (knuckle, brake backing plate and hub). Wish I had known that before I bought all the parts individually.
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On 5/15/2019 at 1:12 AM, GeneralDisorder said:
If it's pre-05 for front bearings they must be pressed.
Subaru specifically disallows use of a hydraulic press for this due to the danger of deforming the knuckle.
It should also be done on the car so as to not disturb the alignment.
Dealer replacement pricing for the pressed in bearings is in the neighborhood of $700. The job is 3.2 hours labor with the Subaru specific on-car press tool. If you bring me a bare knuckle it's still going to be about 1.25 hours so $125. Including measuring the bearing pocket for deformation. And then you'll need an alignment. Plus you want to use a quality bearing, seals, and may need a new hub. Do the math.
We use a hub tamer (hub grappler actually), and we charge $400 without a new hub, or $450 with a new hub.
So how much are you really going to save? Beware anyone that's going to press this for cheap. They probably shouldn't be doing it.
Keep in mind that we see other shops screw this up routinely. It is very easy to get in way over your head. From rusted axle splines, to deformed knuckle pockets, hub's with severe wear lips, and other nasty surprises. If you have no experience pressing bearings, do yourself a favor and have it done professionally or get a used knuckle from the junk yard.
GD
Interesting. Had my son do this job at the dealer and he said they only use the Hubshark for the rears? I have done the job on about five or six bearings with the Harbor Freight tool and other than one misfortune with trying to press the bearing out the wrong way that wrecked the bolt it works amazingly. The car involved is a 99 with 540k miles so when it dies again probably will scrap the car since it has a number of body issues and rust.
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What side is it? I have a rebuilt drivers side including new bearing, seals, ball joint and wheel hub. Also has ABS tone ring installed. Should fit 95-99 for sure
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Only thing I have found that works is either a oxygen/acetylene torch or a special ball joint puller.
http://www.company23.com/products/subarutools/532
You can try soaking it with AeroKroil or other rust penetrant but your success may vary. Sometimes using a chisel to open up the split assuming you got the entire pinch bolt out.
Some have had good luck using an air hammer.
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Swap the coil. Had a similar issue on two other cars and in both cases the coil change fixed it. Don't use an aftermarket one though.
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Not sure if this applies to your engine but do the original engine and replacement engine have the same trigger points on the Crankshaft and drivers side Cam Gear?
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Check the What This Fits tab
Legacy, Outback, Tribeca of various years 2001-2017
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Timing belt Mitsuboshi vs Dayco vs others
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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It's your car but people smarter and with more experience than me have given you the best advice and recommendations. Lots of anecdotal stories about other failures after just changing the timing belt.
$200 in parts now while you have everything off is a better option IMO than having to spend that plus getting heads repaired after the valves bend.
But hey it's a free country do what you want.