Jes1991

Thanks! I plan on making the brackets out of stronger steel possibly this weekend and maybe adding a 3rd set to where the C pillars are. All the galvanized metal came from a scrap pile outside of a construction sight. But as it is, it can hold a 230 pound man no problems lol.

Made this roof rack out of galvanized steel and oak. Im quite proud of it! I copied the jeep stile drip rail mounts. Any questions, comments, or suggestions are welcome! Note that welding galvanized metal is harmful to your lungs, so please take proper precautions!

So after tinkering around I'm embarrassed to admit I should have seen this to begin with. Lol. For anyone wanting to know about the wires coming out of the switch: the White Wire is constant 12V, the Yellow Wire is the 2WD wire and the Red Wire is the 4WD wire.

Thanks guys! I was thinking that it was a SPDT but I wanted to confirm it before I messed with it and fried something.

Long story short, the other day I broke the push button for my 4WD. Like it flew into pieces... I put it all the little copper pieces back into place and it works, but only if I hold the button. I've tried looking on here and Google for a wiring diagram to see what type of switch it is to see if I could get a generic switch to dash mount it like I did with my old subie (exept with the original button) any help would be appreciated as I dont want to short anything important out. The pic is of my new shifter knob.

Thanks for the info! So just because it's making horrible clunking and grinding sound doesn't mean it's necessarily bad? I'm pretty sure they are factory ones. It looks pretty straight forward in my Haynes repair manual. I have a set on my parts car in about the same shape. I'll pop em out and take a look and rebuild them. I'm just worried because of driven it through sand and got sand everywhere.

And I need to replace my axles anyway. The boots are torn and at one point dunked in sand. They are starting to really bind up.

So while browsing around on Rock Auto I happened across these heavy duty axles and wondered if anyone else has used them or anything like it. I plan on doing a 2" lift soon maybe bigger and I know lifting these beasts puts a huge strain on the CVs. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,1991,loyale,1.8l+h4,1270112,drivetrain,cv+half+shaft+assembly,2288

Guys, miracles do happen! A lady that lives down the road from my parents has a broken down DL with quads, and she is letting me buy them! Along with the fenders (95% rust free) and all the A.C. components for $100. The only catch is that I have to attach my old fenders and headlights to her wagon so that it doesn't look like a junk car sitting in her yard.

That would be awesome! Unless you wanted to swap. ????. Jk jk. I'll pm you my number. Maybe I can fab something up.

I'm going to send you a pm about those.

Thanks. I can actualy still find the glass sealed beams here at the Big Blue Store with a smiley face. I wish I knew where my old mechanic took my DL. I had to give it up to pay him off for another project car. ☹. But this was back in 2013 or 14. So very little hope of it being around still.

Of course everything I like is hard to find. Lol. Like non rusted fenders for a decent price. ????

Awesome. Now to hunt for some headlights.

Hello again. I have had a question buzzing around my head ever since I bought my 91 Loyale. It has the single headlight configuration (one headlight per side of the vehicle). My 89 DL or GL had dual headlights (2 seals beam glass headlights per side of the vehicle like my profile pic). My question is: can I retrofit a single headlight configuration to the dual light configuration? I like the way the dual light configuration looks and I'd like to swap it. Unfortunately I don't have the 89 to look at. Is it just a bracket I need to buy and swap or is this just a crazy idea? Thanks in advance.

UPDATE: So my parts wagon didn't have any solenoids I could use. I didn't want to pay $70 for a new factory one. So I searched around on here and saw that a Toyota Corolla one would fit. So I snagged one out of the local junk yard (free because I do so much business with them) with about $6 worth of hose and some sauldering to adapt the plug, the check engine light is gone! Thanks for all the help guys!

I finally have a code! Code 34. It IS the EGR solenoid. Man I feel dumb. But I swear to you guys that the ECU light wasn't blinking. Maybe I wasn't holding my tongue right. I'll grab the one off my parts car this weekend. (My parts car is an hour away from my home)

Fuel filter. Sorry my bad. It's on the upper drivers side under the hood. I'll double check the light on THE ECU tonight if it's not raining too hard

Stock motor (I don't know if it's original) and the On Board Diagnosis plug. It's a whitish yellow plug under the hood near the fuel pump.

Yes I unhooked the 2 tester cables. And now the light comes on instantly after startup. Still no codes or flashes. He even unhooked the maf sensor to try to throw a code and STILL no codes. I can't see any broken or chewed wires... I was tightening the throttle cable because over its 27 years of life, it was stretched and I had a 2" dead spot before I got any throttle. And I like everything hooked up in my car unless it actually improves it's preformance. I'll try to get a solenoid and test it.

That's what the mechanic said. I unhooked both of them and now the check engine light comes on quicker and still no codes... maybe a bad ECU?

That's the second part of this crazy story. It's not throwing any codes. At least not any that an obd1 scanner can see.