Arty

I've been looking online at different stores, but I can't find a part number for the cables I need. I pulled my e-brake too hard and snapped the cable. Not sure which one, so I'm just going to order all of them. i'm obviously looking for the cheapest option. 1995 Legacy L wagon, ABS, AWD. Any help would be massively appreciated.

Can you please provide me with the specific model number, please? If you have it that is. Or better yet, maybe you know of the cheapest place to buy one? If so, I'd greatly appreciate it

Update! We got the car and it's phenomenal!!! I checked the heads very closely before sealing the deal, and they looked spotless. This was a one owner car. It was driven by a middle-aged woman that took meticulous care of it, and it also came with a 36,000 mile/3 year warranty. I am having them flush the coolant with the Subaru stuff previously recommended and the additive. Now my only question is... where can I get my hands on steering wheel mounted audio controls?

Outstanding posts, everyone, thank you so much!

I can live with oil leaks until I get the timing belt fixed, so long as they don't lead to catastrophic failure. My '96 Legacy GT certainly left me wary of such things. That car was undrivable and I am horrified of repeating that experience.

I know I touched on this same topic a couple of months ago, but purchase time has come to fruition, and now I'm panicked. We are looking at a 2006 Subaru Legacy i Limited wagon. Automatic, ~45,000 miles, one owner, well taken care of. If I don't want to deal with head gasket issues, just as a general question, is this the car for me? In my last post, I got a few people saying they were remedied in this year, a couple others saying they still had issues. I really would like to know which it is, as I don't want to take such a big risk if it's avoidable.

I know this question has been asked before, but I can't find the thread through a search. Please forgive me for a repeat. So... I think we're considering a new-to-us car. I would love to buy a Legacy GT, but I am still a little leery about the head gasket issue. I know there was a year where they got much better, but can I please know the *EXACT year? I don't want to buy a car and have the HG blow on me. Was it 2005 or 2006?

First off, I just want to give a HUGE thank you to these guys- I seriously appreciate the well wishes! Now to the heater- It inexplicably started working again the other day. The weekend before I was going to take it in to get it replaced, it started working again. I was following my dad's moving truck back to our house when he took a wrong turn. At the red light, I jumped out of my car to tell him we'd have to make another turn. When I got back in the car- Heater. The only thing I've noticed that seems to be different since it's started working again is that the chime the car makes at start up is a bit higher pitched now. I just thought someone may find this interesting.

To clarify- You're absolutely correct, we have covered this. And your suggestion of the switch was my last glimmer of hope. I tried it and everything was the same. I really was hoping it would be the switch. The reason I didn't post any updates, however, was because I've been incredibly busy- Bought a house, having a baby, new job, etc. I just posted this question as to give a less confusing update to the issue.

I will probably give this a shot on Saturday.

I tried both ways. Everything reads fine. I've tested everything I can think of.

Yes, with my wife's switch. The switch is good.

I'm sure some of you remember my heater issues. If not, my heater doesn't work. I have a 95 Legacy Outback, 5 speed, 2.2. The blower is perfectly fine, the fuses are ok, resistor block is good, and the relays are good. I know because I've tested them all on my wife's car. When I turn on the windshield defroster on full blast, the radiator fans kick in. But the blower still doesn't engage (Though it works perfectly fine in my wife's car) Oh- and everything is getting the proper voltage. So, after messing around with it some more, I still have no idea. But last night I went to try and repair the cigarette lighter. It turns out that it doesn't work either. Could these two things be related somehow?

I will be trying both of these first. If they don't work, then... Alligator clips it is. Thanks guys!!!

I have not. I've thought about it being a fuel issue as well. I need a special tool for that, right?

Great ideas, I will check them out next weekend. It's too wet and cold to do anything today, but I like all the ideas. Now... About the hoses- I checked them and they all *seemed* ok. Any ideas on how to possibly track down a troublesome hose? About the IAC- I've seafoamed and electronics-cleanered the hell out of that area. It didn't really seem to make much of a difference... is it possible it (IAC) or the TPS could be bad altogether? Also- I drove the LS earlier to try and get it to stall again. It didn't stall this time, but it DID get ready to. The RPMs dipped way down to about 200-300, they jumped up a bit twice, and the transmission fluid light came on for a very split second, then the car started running right again. Any thoughts on that?

Ok, I value my sanity. I come to you, the fine people of USMB, hoping to finally figure out *TWO* quite perplexing issues. Here they are (on two different cars) 1st- My wife's car is a 1995 Legacy LS wagon, automatic, 2.2 liter. I've replaced the knock sensor (which was totally destroyed), and I just replaced the engine coolant temp sensor. Both caused the car to run increasingly better after the individual jobs were done, but the car is still experiencing sudden stalls when braking at stop lights or stop signs. Nothing dramatic happens now that I've changed the ECTS. Before I did, the car would rev up and down, freak out, then stall. Now it just drops and stalls. Absolutely no CELs, and the car seems to run just fine, all things considered. ANY idea what it could be??? 2nd- My car is a 1995 Legacy Outback, wagon of course, 5 speed, 2.2 liter. The heater/AC doesn't work. When I turn the switch, I hear a click in the relay, and when the AC is engaged, the compressor kicks on and everything seems fine, but nothing blows the air. Today I did a lot of testing, and here's what I found- Everything is getting the proper voltage, all the way to the blower wires. My blower is perfectly fine. I put it in my wife's car, worked just fine. I put her blower motor in my car (her heat works great), nothing. The most perplexing of this all, however, is this- When I put the windshield defrost on and turn the switch, the radiator fans kick on. This was all done while the car was on ACC, but it also kicked the fans into a higher speed while the engine was running. What. The. Hell. PLEASE HELP!

I'm in the same boat right now. I want to try changing out the relay first, just to get the hardest one out of the way first. Does anyone have any tips on how to more easily access the blower relay on a '95 Legacy? I don't want to have to take everything apart like I did when I got the new relay at the junkyard...

Haha, that's the picture I used to FINALLY find that SOB when I replaced it on my car a couple of years ago! That thing was a pain to just *look* for. Anyway, yeah... I know for a fact that they go bad. I still have what's remaining of the one I replaced in my car. It basically just turned into a wire. It was destroyed. Also- I got the part from Subaru, brand new, for 23 bucks. Same price as online, just no shipping costs. I'll also get it on the same day. But yeah...... anyone who has ever had a car with a bad ECTS in the past knows the pain of these things going bad. It's just horrible trying to drive the car. I can't wait to swap it out.

Oh... and around 177,000 miles. Right around when I changed mine.

1995 Legacy LS. EJ22.

My wife's car is still acting all wonky, exactly the same as mine acted before I changed the engine coolant temperature sensor (which worked like a charm). I am going to do the same thing to her car, but I hate the gap in prices between OEM Subaru sensors and something like an AC Delco sensor. I usually stick completely OEM, but I was wondering- Would this particular part would cause any issues being after market?

The CEL only kicked on recently. It has been running like total garbage lately. Agreed. I want to know where to get one cheap enough to do this...

I just wanted to show a couple of pictures of the knock sensor I replaced today. Enjoy!

Bumping this... can anyone give a more precise location of the extra bolt hole?