Arty

Yeah, I actually read about that here and there but wasn't too sure how true it was. I guess I'm better off just looking for some way to eek out some more power.

What do you think about the Subaru Extra S fluid? Would you recommend anything else over it?

First off, much thanks to Quidam for finding an OEM flywheel for my car for 25 bucks. You have no idea how much that helped! Now... I figure these OEM flywheels may as well be made of pure lead. I've been looking for a way to get just a little more oomph out of my car, and I think freeing up weight on the flywheel may just be the way to get it. Does anyone happen to know if it's possible to lighten this thing up a bit?

Which weight would you recommend the most?

Bumping for an answer.

Also, which fluid would you guys recommend for my transmission?

Stalling isn't an issue for me, I'd rather have a more free-revving car. In fact, I was sort of wondering if there are any lightened flywheels out there that may work. I had no idea the two were interchangeable, so thanks for the tip!

Are those of OEM quality?

We're getting way off topic here. What is the average price of an OE flywheel?

To be honest, reasons like Gal's experience are why I even asked. I'm sort of reluctant to get my flywheel resurfaced after almost 190,000 miles. I am, however, terrified about the cost of a new OEM or OE standard one. But I don't know what the price would actually be, I've only seen what look to be garbage flywheels for a decent chunk of change.

Hey, it's been a while, USMB! So my clutch finally bit it and I'm here to ask about flywheels. To start things off, I drive a 1995 Legacy Outback, 5 speed. I plan on replacing the clutch with this- http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-15010-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5E5XQ/ref=au_pf_pfg_s?ie=UTF8&Model=Legacy|64&n=15684181&s=automotive&Make=Subaru|13&Year=1995|1995&newCar=1&carId=001 Now, what should I do about the flywheel? Is getting the flywheel (which is original) resurfaced enough, or should I buy a new one? If new, which is the closest to OEM I can find?

Alright, so I guess I'll change the o2 sensor anyway. Rats. I was hoping it was related.

It's a '95 Legacy Outback. It DOES have a check engine light, but it's throwing an o2 sensor code. The sound is very rare, as it only occurs under very heavy throttle... I don't like ragging it out like that. In terms of location, it's the right rear if you're sitting in the driver's seat facing forward. I'm starting to suspect a heat shield as well. Is there any possible way that could be what's causing the CEL to be on?

I just randomly found this video made by one of our own users. It is pretty much the EXACT SAME noise, only mine isn't quite as intense. And like I said, it definitely is not coming from the engine bay whatsoever-

I'd also like to say that I thought fuel pump at first because of the sound's location, and the exhaust idea came after much Googling of the symptoms. I assure everyone that this is not a blindly concocted notion. I'm just unsure how likely one is over the other.

Ok, some may remember my post a bit over a month ago about a strange squealing noise emanating from my engine bay under heavy throttle. Well, I'm here to say that the noise is most certainly NOT coming from the engine. It's actually coming from the back right hand side of my car. It actually sounds almost electronic in its pitch. My wife, who knows little to nothing about anything mechanical, even said "That is too high pitched to be anything mechanized." So I've now narrowed it down to two things- 1- Fuel pump 2- A strange hole in my exhaust. I've run so many clutch tests to positive results that I can no longer believe it's the clutch. I WILL have it checked out in about 9 days, but until then, I would just like some other ideas. Like I said, the sound is ABSOLUTELY NOT coming from the engine, transmission, or even the diff. for that matter. It's coming from the back right hand corner of my car.

Bumping for this answer.

All the replies in this thread now have me wondering exactly what is supposed to light up in the first place. It also made me notice just how many lights were out.

Also, I very heavily recommend using a tire size calculator in order to keep the gauges all working properly.

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_cars_bolt_pattern_is_5x100 I've actually been meaning to look into that myself, thanks for reminding me!

And did you take out your ABS and CEL??

Awesome, thanks man. Does this mean I won't have to worry about the gauges being wrong if I mess with them? That's what I'm incredibly worried about. That and the mileage being all kinds of wrong.

Ok, I figured out that the gauges I want are in fact from a '98. I've never messed with gauges before... if I were to just take the accent pieces off of the 98 cluster and put them on my 95 (such as the needles), what risk do I run of throwing off the calibration of my current gauges? E.g- gas level, speedo... Any help is greatly appreciated.

Big help, thanks. I suppose maybe just swapping the needles and or gauge faces would be the better way to go? I'm actually starting to wonder if any of it will fit without some sort of crazy retrofitting.

That is exactly what I'm after. Don't suppose you have one in white, do you???? How much would you want for it?