diamondjumper

So, got the weber 32/36 in (and the 5 inch lift) but running stock tires for now, I am at 125 miles and ive used 3/4 of a tank. So my mileage sucks to say the least. I think of a couple of things. I can see gas dripping down the barrels after I shut the car off for a good 5 minutes afterwards. I believe gas drips down the barrel as it idles too. So I am thinking it is either A) a sticky float valve b)I need a fuel pressure regulator Sooo couple of questions. 1) where can I buy the inline fuel pressure regulator. 2) I also think it could be float level. What is the level supposed to be set at like the distance between the tab and valve? or however you measure it preferably for the offroad setting 3) Could it be a sticky float valve, and would rebuilding it help? 4) anything else???? Thanks again, without your help and GD's help i wouldnt be driving my lifted subie right now. -Jeff

Hey nice write up! I think that will work, im only an inch taller so, maybe just make alittle taller block, but taking the rubber spacer out ill see if that works tomorrow! Thanks! -Jeff

So i have my 5 inch lift on the car, its pretty much done, but i had a question, we were trying to figure out if anything needs to be bone to the shift linkages? the tranny, motor were dropped 4 inches from stock. Thanks Jeff

thanks again GD, you've saved my rump roast on multiple occasions. I think it was a sticky needle valve. I think I am still going to check fuel pressure and probably put a regulator in as a precaution too.. -Jeff

so we got her running. but we got another problem. when I shut it off, it gurgles, and i smell gas. So I looked into the barrels, and gas was pooling on the butterfly valves in the bottom of the barrels. It did this for like 5 minutes, and quite abit of gas poured into the manifold, since it flooded and had trouble starting when I went to start it. whats causing this? We think it might be a sticky float valve. any ideas?

I swear ive checked every hose, nothing with vacuum when running isnt capped. It runs like crap, isnt even smooth at 3000rpm. After about 5 minutes it sounds like it bogs itself and dies. How do I go about adjusting the float level? thats the next step i guess.

hooked up the return line and vacuum advance. Still runs rich! Smokes out my driveway. Whats going on here?:confused:

Ok, so i stepped away from the car, and took a break. came back and decided to check fuel pump fuse. Turns out I blew it. Soooo I replaced it, and now got it started . I have two big vacuum hoses, They went to the original airbox, and both go to either side of the motor, So I just plugged them for now. It seems like I got most of the vacuum hoses plugged, I still need to run a hose from the vacuum advance port on the weber to the disty, but right now there is one connected from the manifold to the disty, where it was with the old hitachi, should I leave it or change it? Mainly, I am struggling with the tuning. I have to have the throttle completely open to get it to start, and when it does start it puffs black smoke. Its running wayyyyy rich! It does run on its own, doesnt idle right yet, but i havent messed too much with it yet. I was reading some older posts, and wondering if I should run a fuel return line, does it just go on the opposite bung as the fuel inlet? Anything else I should do to hopefully make it run better, I know its jetted right, its 140/140 mains 160/170 correctors and 50/60 idle. any help would be appreciated!

Thanks! I did that and it fits now, I hooked up the fuel line, and the other two, breather and furl return line i presume, I just left sitting for now. I went to start it to see where I was, and it wont start. I think its fuel, so I took the fuel line off and turned the motor over to see if i caught any gas in my catch can. Nothing was in the can, so I dont think Im getting any fuel. but why?

So I got around to starting to install my weber. (the redline kit came the other day). I took off the old hitachi, and did a dry fit of the weber and the adapter. I came across a problem. The choke hits the power steering pump. Being in the cold northwest, I need the choke, so whats the fix to this? -Jeff

picked up a weber today off of a datsun for 80 bucks today. I tore it apart to check out the jets. Heres what I found. mains: 140/140 Air correctors: 160/170 Idle: 50/60 I figure this is perfect for my EA82. Now I need to install it, which I have no clue how to do, It looks fairly straight forward, I only see one vacuum hose connection on the weber, So i figure ill have to take off a ton of them from the car. Im buying the redline adapter tomorrow, and anything else I need to buy or take care of? Also is there an idiots guide to installation? Ive searched through the 6 year old weber threads and alot of the links dont work anymore:lol: thanks, Jeff

I am fed up with my hitachi carb. I am ready for a weber. Now before you go tell me to go to the sticky and read about them, I just want to know where to buy one, and since the threads ive read on the sticky thread are from 2004, i figure they arent up to date. So I want to know: Where I can buy one that is the cheapest/best place to buy the carb and adapter plate. -Jeff

................................ so i like playing with my camera too....

Im trying photobucket isnt working!

Well Ive been working alot lately, but have worked on the subie every chance I can get. I with the help of 88subi4x4 and his dad made the rear bumper from a piece of chairlift steel in his backyard. I also put some peugeots on it. I started building the lift. Pics of the bumper: Had to put a couple of bikes on my rack too, I meant that is what I built the bumper for! Next on the list: Try and finish the 5 inch lift Drill the toyota wheels I cleaned up and find some 215 75 or 65 R15's Find a Weber and get the thing running right! Little quirks like the clock and the voltage gauge has a flaky connection or something Glasspack Exhaust Skidplate and more Im sure -Jeff

Thanks for the reply! I want to do the weber carb, but need to find one and everything associated with it for a decent price. It isnt the original carb, it is a brand new one the previous owner put on but never could get it to run right after installing it. pictures of anything would help. and I will try the carb cleaner trick tomorrow.. -Jeff

Soo ive had nothing but problems with my brand new carb on my ea82. It hesitates under light throttle. Im almost positive it is a vacuum leak. And ive been told by a few people to just take off all of the vacuum hoses except for the ones you absolutely need. I am willing to try this, but which ones do I keep and take off? Pictures anyone?? -Jeff

Well I think we are going to use blocks, but I was wondering the same thing, except I dont even think they need to be braced together, as long as you make sure they are all going in the same direction when you initially bolt them on so the angles are the same. Im trying to figure out the easiest way to do it. Pipe, or individual blocks? While contemplating i will finish my bumper! -Jeff

ok to clarify: I have already cut 4 inch crossmember blocks for all the body. Now I need to make the front strut blocks, as well as extend the rear struts was my plan. I planned on doing 5 inch blocks and extending it 5 inches in the rear. Wouldnt that give me 5 inches of TOTAL lift, with 1 inch more of an angle on my CV axles. that would lift the body 5 inches and drop the running gear 4. that is the plan.

So Im doing a 5 inch lift, (4 inch body, 1 inch suspension) And Im going to start making the front strut blocks, as all of the other lift blocks we just cut out. So what materials do i need to make the front blocks, and what angle do they need to be? Jeff

Ive got one without the cap. i live in everett though...

Well i know some people have taken everything off, except for the high idle and something else I think, but I just took off the charcoal canister and another little thing which I still dont know what it is. It had a pretty large hose connecting to to the egr, but i capped it off, made no difference and didnt solve the problem. I think i might unfortunately have to start replacing all the hoses..:-\

So ive had nothing but problems with my carb on my EA82 sedan. I cannot get the thing to run right, It now runs, which is better than when I got it, but it still doesnt like to run right. Under light acceleration, at around 2000-3000 rpm it lurches and hesitates. It also lurches when trying to maintain a speed with little pressure on the gas pedal. When I punch it though, it seems to run fine. I was thinking it was a transition jet or something. It is a brand new carb the guy before me put on. I was thinking about taking all the vacuum lines off and plugging them, Ive already taken a few off and plugged them. I just dont know what else to plug and take off.. anyone have any suggestions or pictures to help?!? -Jeff

how much scott?

Now that school is nearing the end, I am planning on starting the lift of my ea82 sedan. Im doing a 4 inch. 88Subi4x4 and I are building it, but I am looking to buy the front strut lift blocks. I heard woody makes them, is he on the forums? -Jeff