diamondjumper

Today I dug into the wagon.... have this loud grinding (i assume wheel bearing) that goes away when I turn left. So today I replaced the entire left hand (drivers side) hub, thinking this was the issue. Nope, same exact sound at moderate speeds (15-30)....havent taken it above that really yet:lol:. Is it the right wheel bearing? that seems weird that when more dynamic load is on the right side when turning left, the noise goes away...... I already wasted one morning, dont really want to waste another one. any ideas? On a side note, my speedo was acting up due to a bad seal on the speedo cable, so i just replaced it with a spare cluster I had..... Anyone know about how long this will last without fixing the seal at the tranny? I would prefer not to have gear oil dripping down on my feet from the stupid speedo cable

Update: Props to 88subie4x4. got it running after a whole 30 minutes of tinkering with things. Might have a slight Tick o Death, but it was 2 quarts low and been sitting a while so it might go away.... Also got lucky and picked up a set of 15 inch flat spoke pugs with lugs that will go on it eventually.......

Just checked over some of the major things we thought it may be, like disty, etc. My buddy and his dad are looking at the ecu and surrounding areas to make sure everything is connected. Looks like I may get to bust out a few of my new Fluke meters

So I have this idea.... Anyone done/ heard of putting the gl10 suspension on a regular gl? I know everyone hates the air ride, but if you can bypass all that computer mumbo jumbo, and have it be a simple on/off, would it work? I am thinking about slamming my wagon to the ground, and if I put it on gl10 suspension, hypothetically I could have the bags be defleated, make my car slammed, then when I want to drive, just pump up the bags and it will give me 2" more of clearance... Any thoughts?

So, thought I got out of the old subaru game, with my last lifted sedan. Well turns out I cant get out of the game, so I picked up this little gem today. Anyways, it is a 89 Gl Hi/lo, with 140,000 original miles. Rescued her on her way to Pick n pull. It was stolen, and apparently has not run after being stolen and recovered. So, the previous owner before selling it to me wanted to check relays (thought they were behind the dash) and started disassembling the dash. Luckily he didnt get too far before he gave up. So i will put them back together when I get the time... Anyways it wont start. Its getting fuel, turns over, but previous owner says no spark. Timing belts we just done @120k, so i doubt it threw the drivers side belt, but i didn't get a chance to look. I haven't had much time to tinker with it, but while i am not working on it I am just brainstorming what it may be. Any ideas?

Wheelin trip to walker

Sweet Pics!

looks like im in

Welp, havent been on here in awhile.... but have been working on the subi when I could. Lets see, I have: cut the fenders, fixed rusty panels (the few that there are ) , re-braced the front strut extensions to a very new beefy design, and put accord springs on the rear to solve my sag issue and give me about another inch of lift . So in preparation of the wheeling to walker tomorrow, we: put the welded diff in, mounted super swampers on another spare set of drilled toyota wheels, cut the fenders to fit the swampers, and finally sealed my shift boot and made a custom crown royale bag shift boot. pics to come! -Jeff

yeah well at least we will have a picture of how clean it WAS:lol:

yeah when I first got the weber i checked the jets, and they were 140 mains 160/170 air correctors and 50/60 idles. One of the mains didnt screw in as easy as the other as i remember, and head was alittle chewed, but the hole in the jet was in good condition, and it seated fully, so i figured everythint was alright there. I have not done a tune to it, it does have fairly new ignition wires and new spark plugs though.

i did timing tonight, it was set at 12*. now what can be causing my mileage to be soo terrible. And i think i might have fixed my whole crankcase breather issues IF my pictures are right, hope you can tell if i am right or wrong by them.

for the flaky connection, i think it has to be in the dash, when the voltage gauge doesnt work, the gas gauge doesnt work either, so im thinking a ground or something...

ok, so i tried to redo the valve cover breathers. does this look about right now?

so how do I plug the ais system?

now that i think about it, did i accidentally take out the pcv valve? i have a hose running from the valve to the air filter from each valve cover. then the air supply for the cat on each side i just routed into the breather hoses with a t coupler....

All I have hooked up are the valve case breathers and the air supply for the cats, and the vac advance, all other vacuum hoses are capped, i dont have to pass emission so i figured i didnt need them..

So im still getting terrible mileage, 15mpg. Granted im lifted 5 inches on 27 tires, but i know i should be getting better than this. Ive tried to find float specs online but i cannot find anything. What float specs do you guys run that you know works!?!? or any other things i should do? I was getting pretty good mileage with my old hitachi so i need to fix this i am a broke college student. Also, another question, I hooked the fresh air supply for the cat up to the valve cover breathers routed to the air filter on the carb. I drove it for a couple days, came outside and there was a pretty good size oil spot below the drivers side of the motor, looked like it came from the breather, but i am not positive, could be unrelated. Anyways, should i leave it routed like this, or cap them off? any help is great, thanks Jeff

thanks! still needs to see some mud! and be tinkered with

well, I got the lift done with the help of 88subie4x4's dad. also put my old toyota wheels to good use and found a set of 215/65/15s on craigs for $100 for practically new tires. Also am trying to still dial in the weber mileage wise, and fix a few odds and ends, still need to tinker with it but it runs and drives!

cool sedan in the background

so what float spec do you all set your weber to. I found a few different diagrams with different specs, I will be offroading so the float specs for that if anyone has them would be great!

Soooo i adjusted the float. the top of the float (valve closed) was the right distance 35mm is what I found. The bottom of the float ( valve open) was not, and needed to be bent down to 51mm, it was at about 45 or so. I am hoping this will solve my mileage issue, I couldnt see any gas dripping at idle. guess we will just have to see when I run a tank through her!

yeah it seems the mileage has always been pretty poor. and the gas dripping in the barrels after shut off is really weird to me. blows smoke too, so ill check the float level i think is the next step. Is a sticky needle valve very common?

it was a carbed car, so the fuel pump should be at 3 psi, it looks newer, so I am not positive, but it worked with the hitachi. and a huel return line is already on it and routed.