Suba9792

Have you verified power to the fuel pump, all wiring is correct.....oh and the crank position sensor. It won't turn over if its broken or faulty, seen a bad one just the other day on an ej22 going into an ea82 wagon that I'm wiring, most likely cause was some one pulling it off the wrong way and it broke. Go to a yard and get a new plug for it. Maybe even a sensor, and solder the wires......dont use retarded butt splices.

Sure I don't see why not.

Yeah that's about the price I figured. It beats paying out the *** for a new one or "remanufactured"........ That's the point of a rebuild, thats all they do is rebuild the stuff and call it remanufactured.

Rock auto has them listed for $122 to $180+ and the dealer would most likely be around $250, or so. So with shipping probably be under $100, especially if you remove the pulley. You can leave off the resivior and I'd send the o-ring for that back with the pump. To save weight on the shipping. Not sure how much a flat rate would be but i assume its not much.

Keep in mind your local sound ordinance as well, don't want to get a ticket having it too loud. Go on ebay you can find good exhaust kits all day long.

So if anyone has a leaky ps pump, or one with the ghost turbo I am making offers to rebuild them at a fair price. Cost will be about $85 for parts and labor, addition $10 if I have to clean up the pump first. You pay the shipping to and fro(shouldn't be very much). I will donate a portion of the cost to the USMB. Clean pumps will make the transistion much faster, pumps should be out the next day after being rebuilt. Note: ghost turbo issues is not always resolved with a rebuild, but it may subside a bit. Most lik ely I will be doing the work at GDs shop.

Broken line from the map sensor to the manifold. Got a feeling there is another somewhere, along with an old alt.

air filter is pretty new and clean. I went through and looked for vac leaks found one and fixed it, probably should get in deep to look for more.

Along with a random rough idle, I have ran a bunch of grounds and that helped some. I may do a comp test next week just to confirm no burnt valve.

Anyone ever have this occur? Driving along with the ac on and floor it, at a certian rpm, not sure since my 97 legacy Brighton didn't come with a tach. Anyway you get a sound that sounds exactly like a turbo BOV. I thought maybe a build up of pressure then releasing, but I'm still baffled. Then a random power loss, without the ac on, almost like a quick missfire without a code. It has a new coil,plugs,new oem wires. My guess is maybe my alt is on its way, or something else. I get random power strangeness, now and then the dash lights will cut out(only happened twice in two years, fans kick on and the headless go dim. Etc.

I purchased one off of E-Bay about 4 or 5 months ago, brand new still wrapped in plastic wrap for $38.95+ shipping! I have not had a single problem with it and it doesn't bite me when I touch it like the old one did! go for it, if it works it works!

keep your foot off the gas a little. The EJ22 is pretty good on gas, I get about 26-28 with my legacy. I think the new FB20 is going to be a hit among economy conscious people.

CV axles or possible front diff maybe..

I know now to just simply avoid the rocks....or try to convince my wife on the GL:lol:

Problem solved, GD was under the rear end and noticed one of my "mishaps" We take it on some pretty rough forest roads since we hike so much and it looks as if we hit a fairly large rock, enough to bend the bracket supporting the mustache bar and causing vibrations through the entire cabin and not allowing that bushing to flex like it should causing the clunk between gear changes. Nothing a hammer couldn't fix:banana: Thanks again Rick!!

nope go for it.

So my 97 Legacy Brighton EJ22 5MT has been knocking when you up shift... symptoms are it knocks only on the up shift going up a hill, flat road, but not down hill. My thoughts are a bad u-joint in the drive shaft, or worn mounts somewhere. I had the trans replaced a few months back but it did this noise with the old one as well, but I'm almost 99.9% sure it has nothing to do with the tranny and the fact that it comes from right under the back seat leads me to the drive shaft. All of the exhaust mounts are new and it is nice and stiff. The exhaust was my first idea but now...I dunno any ideas or has anyone had the same prob. I have no vibration per say just some from the snow tires that are on it.

More connected to the road is an understatement, more like glued....until a small bit of gravel:lol:

Ok, so I was out at GD's place today doin some exhaust stuff and he decided to give me a little ride in the franken brat...with the JDM STi tranny, holly crap! grip like no other and the thing has torque written all over it. Goin down I205 was nuts. Anyone questioning the power of one of these builds is a fool IMO:lol: its not like anything I have ever been in and I've been in some fast cars. I'm glad to say I was able to contribute a little to the build with the 5th gear from my old trans, little power house.

+ on the ALT. If I was you I'd still do a full tune up. wires(OEM) plugs(NGK) and fuel filter,air filter,PCV valve etc all of these are fairly inexpensive and can be done in minutes. Start with the easiest and most affordable. "if" you need a coil go on E-Bay, I found an OEM one brand new for $35+shipping. Mine was shocking me when the car was on and I touched it, may want to give that a try:lol: it was alot of volts.

ok I may have failed to notice but is this for a MT or a 4EAT?

sounds like a valve meeting piston to me.

the + side of the Brighton is they have AC that's about the only non basic item you got. I think Subaru was one of the few manufactures to add AC to most of the lines.

sweet another sensor to add to my list of "I know what that is":banana:

ECT?? what is that.