sandman

I have all the parts now to switch my '87 turbo wagon over to dual range. Dual range 5 speed, matching rear, and the slightly lower splines axles all sitting in the garage. Would it be possible to swap over the higher splined outputs from the turbo tranny to the dual range tranny? I would like to keep the stronger axles and I dont mind the time or effort. Has anybody opened one of these units? Thanks.

When my water pump died, it still pumped, didnt leak, but it rattled real bad and was rather loud doing it.

That is what I did and it came out very nice! I would do it again. The POR15 needs good prepping to stick to non rusty surfaces though. I washed mine out and then hit it with a sander to scruff up everything. Two coats of POR15 and then roll on Hurculiner. Before the Hurculiner I also went over the body seals with 3M body sealer and let it dry.

I'll see about grabbing the rear swaybar then. Thanks. Would it be worth getting the front end suspension parts also?

Does anyone know if the suspension parts are swappable into a GL 10 Wagon? I would hate to see this RX just rot in the junkyard if some of the parts are that good.

I just used some POR 15 and the stuff was $30 a can. It also went way further then I thought it would. I did the entire tub in a Fullsize Blazer in two coats. I still had a lot extra so I went over the frame and here and there and still had extra. I then went over the top of it with Hurculiner. Turned out real nice.

But it will have the LSD right? I'll check mine and I they are open, perhaps I'll snag this unit and swap the LSD over. Thanks for the ratio info.

So what ratio do they have in the rear? I'm picking up a 3.9 rear to do my dual range swap in my turbo wagon this weekend. Can you swap the rears out? I would like a LSD rear.

I saw one in the junkyard today when I was getting parts for my wagon. It looked pretty cool I thought.

Thanks! I'll get them also. Looks like I'll be giving $235 for everything that it will take (axles, rear housing, misc.) I might start tearing into it this weekend.

I got an OK deal on a dual range 5 speed tranny out of an '86 wagon non turbo car with a carb. I even got the correct color interior peices to go with. I pick it up in two days and still have a few questions after searching... Do I need to pull the engine at the same time or can I sneak everything out from behind it? Also, my car is a Turbo car (push button) and the doner is not. Am I going to need to grab the front axles and the rear diff at the same time? Thanks.

If you could relocate the battery, that might give you some room maybe. the bracketry might be a trick though.

It would be tight. It might be easier to use a Power Tank setup. I run a Yorks on my Blazer and it is a big heavy thing. I've thought about dumping it and just going to compressed gas to save the weight and the complexity of the system. Here is one link :http://www.powertank.com/start.htm You can put your own together for less then $100 if you look around. The real expense is in the regulator.

OK, I was in the process of trying to burp it when I noticed that the waterpump pulley was vibrating around pretty good. So I said to hell with it and pulled it out. The bearing in it is totally shot. The whole shaft is loose and when you turn it by hand, you can feel it grinding away. So, new water pump, radiator cap, and some fresh coolant. I'm going to go and put it together now and see what happens.....

I'll go with the thermostate first but I really think its the water pump. The car was fine untill this problem gradually started. I begane burping the system and it seems to be topped off although an air buble could still be doing this. I dont think its the thermostate as the engine is hot and the heater so not putting out any heat. It was my understanding that the heating circute was behind the thermostate with the engine. I'll spend some time this morning doing some burping on the jackstands and see what happens. Thanks for the reply's.

I have a weird heating problem. Driving down the road the guage will go into the read and then drop back down again. I searched and saw that this could be a result of the digi dash. OK, I can live with that, but it does it in junction with how the heater performs. It will put out warm air and as the guage goes up, the heater starts blowing cold air. I'm guessing that the water pump must be dying but I'm looking for other input as I just finished changing out the oil pump seals and would love to tear apart the front of the engine again. This is on an '87 GL10 Wagon Turbo. Thanks.

Theres a carb engine in the yard here I believe in the same year of car. Do you just have to change the intakes over or is there more to it? Thanks for the info. I see nothing wrong with more compression.

It overheated for some reason (oil and water were fine) that I have not investigated yet. But looking at the oil out the exaust the really bad blowby and the knocking and no oil pressure, I say its dead. So what can I swap into it? Can I use a non turbo motor and swap my turbo stuff onto it? I know the compression is higher so knocking would be a concern. I could fight that with good gas and timing. Do I need the same thing or are there other options? Sorry for the newb questions but I do not have too much experience with Subaru's. I do know that I want to keep the car. Its too much fun too drive. Its a '87 GL10 Wagon, Turbo, 4 wheel drive, manual. Thanks.

Well mine came with one. I should scan in the options sheet. I found it in the glove box.

Thanks for all of the reply's The $385 is just for the Tranny. If it was for the car, I would have bought it no problem. The car is in real nice condition. It was hit in the front side but not too bad at all. Easily fixed with a core, hood and fender. Paint is better then mine! It also looks almost like mine (same colors in and out) but its not a GL10 so it does not have the options. Its almost a shame to see it there. Even the interior is in good condition. Sounds like it worth looking around some then. I'll hit some of the other yards and see what I can find. I wouldnt mind heading up to Spokane, but where I'm at, that would be a pretty good drive. I paid $1000 for the car I have now and the only thing I wish it had was the dual range. I tried to go a few places where it had the traction but just not the gearing. My old '79 Brat had the same problem. I think that was the funnest car I ever had. :cool:

Is that where it is? I know what I'm doing this weekend.

My experiences have been that a limited slip in a sand or gravel racing situation is better than open or fully locked. Fully locked will give you a loose end coming out of a corner. The posi helps to defeat that but still applies power to the other wheel to help pull you out. Also you can play around with the posi to loosen it up or tighten it up. Any other situation I would say lock it up. IMHO.

Thanks for the eye opener! My car is a turbo car. The car in the yard is a non turbo MPFI car. So, basically, I need to find a unit out of a turbo car to keep the stonger front axles? Edit: What happend to my sig? I had my car info in there. My car is an '87 GL10 Turbo wagon Push button 4 wheel. Thanks

I found a wagon with the 5 speed Dual range tranny in the junk yard. It is the same year and interior color as my '87. They want $385 for the whole thing. This would be swapping in place of my 5 speed push button unit. Is that price worth it? I have no idea. Is my setup worth selling to help recoup the costs? The yard is not interested in a trade. I would like a dual range but I dont want to break the bank to do it. Thanks.

I blew it up with photoshop and it looks like a wagon with the back smashed up and the roof partial ripped off. That happens sometimes on mountain roads up here. People will go off and go way way down. Sometimes not found for years.