sandman

Well the linkage turned out to be fine. The only adjustment I could find was in the High/Low selector. It was fine also. It goes into the gears fine including low range. The is just a spline slipping sound from the tranny when its under a load and in 4 wheel drive. The rear wheels dont push any at the same time. I guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend.

Something needs to be done back there. I just did some very light wheeling and these rigs could really benefit from a locker of some kind. I wonder how close a sammi axle is? I've got a friends with some extra's laying around. They already have lockers in them.

This just started on me. When in 4 (low or high), I'm getting a grinding from the tranny and the rear wheels are not locking in. It worked at first and then went out completely in about 10 min. The front works fine and 2 wheel there is no noise. I can swap it for another unit but before I go through that joy I wanted to make sure that there wasnt a link adjust or some other trick to try out first. Thanks.

It depends on where you are going to draw the current also. One way to protect your cars system is to run the charge wire strait to the battery and the car power rerun to the battery also. That way the main load will go strait to the battery and the car will use what it needs. You can then run your accessories off of the batttery post or something similar like that. Then your only concern would be the guage of wire from the back of the Alternator to the battery.

You could buy a lot with $3200. You could buy three good Brats around here for that much. Sounds like a nice car but really, its only worth about half that.

I've done the down pipe. Heres what I did. -Pulled the down pipe section out of the car. -Removed all of the heat shielding from the cat by grinding the spot welds off. -Chopped the cat in half with a chop saw. -Removed all the guts. -Welded back together using the seams as a guide. This turned out to be real easy. I just used vicegrips on both seams to hold it all together and then stich welded it up. -put back in the car with no heat shielding. I was going to pull the cat entirely and just put a pipe in its place. After looking at it, I decided that I didnt want to mess with alighning the whole thing back together correctly and getting the bottom pipe to mate up correct since the bottom turn is kinda part of the cat. It seems easier to just gut what was there. Without the cat, it does not get that hot anymore so the shielding is not needed so it went in the garbage. I guess if you had exaust inspection where you live, you could put it back on. The car still has the stock rear muffler although I plan on putting a Turbo version on there next.

That sounds like a decent price for what they are going for around here. You can look at the fluid in it to get an idea of its condition. I paid $325 for a 5 speed dual range tranny with 2 front axles and the matching rear and interior stuff from the yard to switch mine over. Not great but not too bad.

Thanks! At least there is an option. Just out of most people's budgets. :-\

Was it desighned just for that tranny or did it cross over from another application?

Maybe the cost of the mod could also be included. Like the cat gutting was free and the airbox mods was also free. The sky's the limit on other stuff. I noticed a power difference gutting the cats. The first cat was the hardest to do. I ended up removing the downpipe form the car. Pulling off all of the heat shielding, cutting the cat in half with a chop saw, removing everything, and then migging it back together using the seams as a guide.

Nice! I just went through mine and found that all of the Emissions hoses and stuff were pretty much petrified. They crumbled apart when I tried to remove them. It might not be a bad idea to change all of this stuff out before they fall aprt on you. Glad to see somebody else from Idaho around here.

I paid $1,000 US for my '87 GL10. It is a Turbo and a 4x4 so I thought it was OK. Not the best but not too bad either.

I know how you feel! I just bought a wagon to get me to work and back on the cheap. Next thing I know, I'm changing out the exaust to a free flow version and converting it to a dual range. Next is cranking up the Turbo some.

What procedure are you using to set the disty and then the timing? Sounds like its way too far advanced if its cranking hard. Your disty might be a tooth off.

The non turbo axles fit just fine on my dual range swap on my '87 Turbo wagon.

Thanks for the thoughts. I'm planning on just using the axles that came with the dual range. It seems nobody has had a problem so it does not seem worth the effort. I'm about halfway through it now. I just sat the tranny on the ground. Might have it done in a few days around work and stuff.

For pavement we went around 1.5 degrees or about half of dirt. Nothing scientific here, it just seems to work good and didnt wear the tires as bad as 3 degress did.

I kinda shoved mine over to the side some on my '87 GL10. That gave the clips on the roof some more bit and it seems to work OK.

I wonder is you could just offset the control arms some and angle the struts? I'll have to take a look at mine and see. I like this idea as keeping the center of gravity as low rump roast possible seems to be the hot ticket. I have 5 " of lift on my rig with 40" tires and 24" of travel. I moved the axle forward the same as your rig to do it and it works very well.

Ah I see. That sucks then.

How about slanting the rear up some? Instead of cutting it off completely, maybe angle it up. That might save on the body work some unless you were thinking about ditching the rear windows and just sectioning it. I'm think the same for my blazer as I have the same overhang problem there. Even with the rear up tight and the oversize tires, I still drag.

What degree of toe did you have in mind? I know on other applications, we went for about a 3 degree toe for loose dirt track conditions. What type of surface are you running?

Man that sucks! You might have had title problems anyway. I've had to deal with abandoned cars by renters and its a mess.

Nice! Theres starting to be some snow in the mountains around here. Caint wait to try the sub out! :cool:

Thanks! So from what I get. The turbo shafts have a larger diameter and two extra splines except for a auto turbo shaft that has the lower spline count but the same diameter. Were you able to split the shafts apart to build a good one? So.... Maybe I'll throw in what I have and If I have problems, I'll get the automatic turbo shafts as the splines will match up but have a little bit better strength. I'll still take a look at the tranny though. Maybe its not that bad to do. I was hoping you could split the case and just swap out the output.