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SchwarzeEwigkt

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Everything posted by SchwarzeEwigkt

  1. So, I just got some rude news. I guess they changed the fuel filter setup on the starting with the '05 Forester. The nice and easy to service filter next to the strut tower has been relocated to the fuel pump in the fuel tank. It's still supposed to changed every 30k. They're telling me I'm supposed to pull the freaking fuel pump every 30k? Seriously? Or is it not as bad as it looks like it is? Either way, I'm trying to solve an issue where the car will crank but not start randomly after sitting for a while. Once it starts it runs and drives just fine. The other thing I think it might be is the coolant temperature sensor. What do you guys think?
  2. I don't know that there is any easy way to tell if the computer was reset once all the monitors go ready again. I'm interested to find out what you learn there. I find it really hard to believe that a plastic damper really would cause that problem, but it that was it, that was it. I'm curious as to what the heck the thing was doing under there to make such a big difference. The battery reset seems more plausible but really is just a theory.
  3. Quiet and boring, then crappy and embarrassing after they start to age. Those things are complete crap. However, there is that old adage: "Chevys run badly longer than most cars run at all."
  4. When I did my timing belt I unplugged the crank angle sensor and didn't plug it all the way back in. Got no spark either AND a CEL for it, though I couldn't tell until I had the car running. I figured the CEL was just because the engine wasn't running. I would have known if it occurred to me to hook up my code tool. Pull the codes...maybe the answer is there.
  5. Glad mine came with the Aisin pump, then! EDIT: Whoa! I just read that website...it's TERRIBLE! I don't trust any part from a company that can't afford or is to cheap to get a translator that can speak English! I'm scared by that stuff...
  6. Window shaking? Sounds odd to me. All Subarus of that vintage have frameless windows. Mine don't rattle, never heard of anyone complaining about that. And the stuff with the center diff? Common to all AWD cars. If you have AWD, you have to make sure your tires are all within spec. They only fail when people take horrendous care of their cars. They don't need any maintenance other than keeping the tires right. Frankly, if you can't be trusted to keep your tires inflated and in good condition, you shouldn't own a car. Plus, you're not going to end up with a Subaru with a fried center diff unless you get really unlucky and buy one sight unseen. If you buy a car sight unseen, well, then I have no pity for you. The stuff you describe all is kind of odd and the mechanic you talked to isn't really in the ballpark.
  7. It sounds like the battery was unplugged for a bit. I saw the radio presets and everything were still there, but maybe they unplugged it just long enough to reset the computer but not long enough to reset the radio? I did it by accident on my Legacy when I was installing the harness for my float charger. It was enough to blow away all the ODB monitors but the radio presets stuck. I only found out when I took it to get inspected. 5 tanks does seem like a awfully long time for the ECU to relearn, though. Perhaps a chunk of carbon got jammed in an O2 sensor and make lazy and thus richer than normal, then cleared out?
  8. Funny you mention that. I've two sets of Timken seals and a couple sets of OEM seals. I found the outer Timken one was fine, am not able to get the intermediate seal in right, and the inner seal is too small. I have a set of National seals too. Don't know about the intermediate one, but the inner one was too small too. I think whatever person transcribed the seal specs from the original factory specs and gave it to the aftermarket people (or whoever reverse engineered it) screwed up and missed by several thousandths. It would explain why nothing but OEM works.
  9. I know, I know. I haven't finished that wheel bearing job I started around Christmas yet. It's nice when you're got an extra car and can't be bothered to go out and fix it. Lately, I haven't been working on it much because every time I run into a problem, I get frustrated and don't want to be near the thing anymore. Having trouble even going out to the garage lately. I need to get the damned thing done, though. SO. Here's the latest thing keeping me from finishing it. I'm having trouble driving in the intermediate rear wheel bearing seal. It doesn't want to go in. I have a seal driver, but it sucks and there's no room to swing a hammer. I tried using a bolt and some washers to drive it in from the other side — think ghetto mini FWD bearing kit. Just goes in crooked. It's occurred to me that I've never really installed many seals and that it never seems like I do it right. Any words of wisdom? GD especially! You say you do this all the time. What's your secret?
  10. Here's an update! It was too damned cold out for me to bother with this (effing) thing until it warmed up a bit. I stopped because I thought I had everything good but ran into a problem with the axle binding against the knuckle when I was done. Seems I didn't drive the hub in quite far enough. Moral of the story there? Use a real metric depth gauge instead of an SAE folding ruler and trying to do the math and guess it. Trouble I'm running into now (and I think before) is that I can't seem to get the innermost seal to drive in all the way. I'm correct in assuming that it is supposed to be flush with the bearing housing, right? Like all the way up against it? Or, is there supposed to be a space? Subaru's bearing install guide has them using a special tool. It looks like the seal should more or less bottom out against the bearing but I'm not sure. The picture in the NASIOC guide isn't clear. I gotta find out. I'm SO close now and I want to get the damned thing out of the garage. Funny that I'm going to finish fixing the winter car up just in time for spring.
  11. Hey, good idea! I've got a 3 ton tiedown strap. I could tie it to the wall and pull it out. Neighbor has a comealong too...I like your thinking.
  12. Yuck. Maybe I'll just straighten the hood with a hammer. It's not that bad. I can probably straighten the support myself too. Paint was already coming off the hood anyway.
  13. I hit a deer a few months ago. Bent the hood and the front tie bar (thing the radiator brackets go in, busted a headlight. I've already got a new headlight, installing that's no big deal. How much do you guys figure it might cost to have another hood put on and painted, have the tie bar straightened? I haven't the slightest idea what body and paintwork costs. I'm a hard-parts guy.
  14. I like the yellow paint on there! I may have to do that next time it's apart. I think I'll do a nice blue.
  15. Isn't that nice? It's funny how being a "good mechanic" is all about being careful and methodical and about doing good research. "Bad" mechanics skip any number of the three. I'd love to work as a mechanic or even open my own shop. Trouble is, my "gets done when it gets done" style doesn't work for many people. But anyhow, hijacking the thread. To the OP: Your car is sounding like it needs some TLC by a decent home mechanic. All the stuff you've pointed out is simple on its own. All together it's quite a bit, but I've done exactly what you are doing. I've spent probably three years working out issues with my Outback caused by my sister not taking care of it for a few years while she borrowed it. Identified the major stuff and fixed that, catalogued the minor stuff and am taking care of it slowly but surely. Just get what all's wrong figured out, strike off the important items and set up a to-do list. And think positive. None of what you've brought up so far sounds expensive or tough to tackle individually. You can do it!
  16. I was wondering about that. I think the part number is a universal identifier for a particular size seal. I'll have to call up my dealer and see if they've got one I can get. If the seals are the "right size," I wonder what I'm going to do. Maybe I can get a seal with a larger OD and the same size ID or something.
  17. Still slowly but surely working on the rear bearing on my '97 Outback. Does anybody know offhand what the specs for the seals on the rear knuckle are? I got a set of Timken seals for doing my wheel bearing and have discovered that the new inner seal is too small. I went to Advance and picked up a National seal, seems to be the exact same size and part number as the seal that's too small. I haven't tried putting it in yet, but I did compare the Timken one to the old one and the old seal seems a larger diameter. I can't tell for sure since it got mangled while I removed it. When I say too small, I mean that the seal just pops into the bore and will fall out. I should have to drive it in, correct? It shouldn't have to be smashed in, but it should be a tight fit such that it actually seals and doesn't fall out, right? I'm assuming that the inner seal is the one that sits closest to the axle, the intermediate one is the small one that fits between the inner seal and the bearing and the outer seal is the one that sits between the hub and the bearing.
  18. Made some progress on the job tonight. Old bearing is out, new one is in. Removing and installing the bearings with the FWD service set is a breeze! Turns out the inboard inner race and rollers were all pitted to hell and even a bit rusted. Looks like the inner and intermediate seals failed and the poor thing got contaminated. Serious case of rug burn... Count me in as someone who's having issues with fitment with Timken seals. The outer seal is fine, the intermediate seal seems fine, though the inner seal is too small. I still have to confirm that I have the right seal, but if it's the "right" one, it's not specced properly. If Beck Arnley seals work for you, maybe I'll pick some up. Advance carries that stuff, if I remember correctly. Man if I'm not really annoyed that I'm being held up by an oil seal.
  19. I've read that TSB before. The MY99's had some oddity with the master cylinder. Seems none of the other years did.
  20. I used to have this problem. For me, the check valve in the brake booster hose would freeze up. Probably like what was happening to the other people. After I took the hose off and blew air through it, I noticed that the check valve would stick. I fixed it by flushing it both ways with carb cleaner. The valve seemed much better after that and it hasn't frozen since. Just make sure you note which way the hose goes and put it back the right way. If it's backwards, you'll get no boost at all. Ask me how I know. EDIT: I should post this late. I somehow missed the answer Gloyale posted. So, yeah. What he said. Worked for me.
  21. I really like the idea of this car. However, I already own a fairly unuseful sports coupe. I'll watch from the sidelines. I do want to see what they do with this new engine. The premise is very good.
  22. Actually, I got it out today. Just needed lots of pounding. In fact, I didn't think I was making any progress. Far from it, in fact; I was pounding on it purely to vent frustration. I happened to look down and notice that the space between the tone ring and the brake shoe was definitely bigger than I remember. So, I measured it and then gave it ten more whacks. It moved a whole 1/8"! After that, I pounded on it until my hand went numb and it was nearly out. Had my wife give it the last dozen or so whacks and it came out! The bearing even stayed all in the hub, so I dont have to screw around with pulling one of the races off the hub. Hub's in great shape too! Excelsior! Tomorrow I'll replace the bearing and see if I can get away with reusing my lateral link bolt. I may have done too much damage to it. Gotta clean it up with the grinder some and see if the nut will thread on cleanly.
  23. Their shtick with the newer ones is lightness. I guess they shaved something like 200lbs from the old model. It's gotta come from somewhere. I had hoped they hadn't craptified it to do that. Kind of reminds me of an old story/myth about Colin Chapman, father of Lotus. His mantra was "just add lightness." It's said that he was once working with an engineering team on a chassis. He kept pointing at structural supports saying "try taking that one out." Eventually, the thing fell apart. When it did, he said "good. Put that last one back and we're done." Great for lightness, not so much for long term strength.
  24. I only put it back through the rear link since the end of the bolt is mushroomed from the pounding it took to come out. Maybe it's moving too much...good point. I'll file the end of it and push it back through.
  25. I really don't want to do that. I mean, I'll do what I have to to get it done, but I'd like to do as much as I can before I do that. Have any other things I can try before I concede failure?
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