Travisthedrumer

Okay, as many of you have noticed, I suck at fixing my car, and i tend to break it more, I.E hyper extending the CV (thanks GLoyale!). while doing some investigative services yesterday of my brake lines, I found that i broke my brake caliber trying to get it to go back in with a BFH. yeah, didnt know it turned. well, it wont come out now. its stuck compressed. any fixes for this? maybe turn it the oppisite way? or buy a new caliber? I also found why my car is so loud. two broken bolts off the exhaust pipes, right from the manifold. I also found out that either 1) my MAF is dirty, or broke 2) i get no fuel pressure in the morning cause the engine isnt a morning person. I also found out that I have a random rim. it was chillin in my cargo area, underneath the carpet, in that little bitty hole. it looks like an ATV rim, cause it sure wont fit on my car. and i dont know where it came from, because thats where i keep my car goodies, I.E. oil, coolant, rain-x, trans-x, Lucas, stuck of that sort. I also found something interesting. and this is what i'm excited about. The 3AT's behind the EA82's. are they AWD? mine has a block plate on the back end, with 3 bolts holding it together. The body has a mount for a Driveshaft it looks like, but the exhaust is ran down the channel for it. does anyone know if DL's came stock with an AWD, but with a block plate? can i drop it, hook up a shaft, and go, or are there no rear guts? or am i completly retarded and this is just a normal FWD tranny, and im getting excited over the end cap? someone let me know. cause if it is, that's tight. not sure what i can do with it, seeing as how my person's wallet is broke. -.- 88 DL, 1.8 EA82, 3at.

Neat. Alright. i now have something to do tomorrow. My brother told me that too, but then we got to looking at it, and it just irked me more. thats what happens when i get in a hurry, I do things sloppy and stupid. but, glad to know i didn't shatter it like the last one.

Im done. I'm done with this car. You'll probably see it on the for sale forum here pretty quick. The CV shaft broke in half... AGAIN. I JUST BOUGHT THE THING. I was trying to get the tie rod bolt out of the hub, so i could take it to a friend, who... oh yeah, his dad is a metal machinist. He has a lathe and everything. The control arm was on the bolt, so i jack the car up, and pulled down on the control arm. the spring unleashed the beast with the hub onto my shoulder, and the force ripped the CV knuckle apart. good news? Tie rod bolt is perfect. bad news? since the CV was purchased using a warranty, I can't get another one, and i dont have any money. I might keep it... It has grown on me. Anyone near kansas want to sell me a passenger CV like.... well, i better hit the wanted forums. people tend to get ansty about misposting. Thanks for your help guys!

alright. I've run into another problem.... I've f'd these threads up real bad. their a complete solid line of steel up to the 4th thread now... its bad. I can't even get a Die on there straight. Well... i've never really done the die thing before, so... some help with that? I like to pride myself on knowing how to do things like this, but, i dont. :[ sad... Alright, so anyone wanna help me out here? The lug nuts fit though, thank you. The pitch helped gross, so don't feel too bad. The M12x1.25 fits, i think its like a 17mm. I couldn't get the other side off because its a pain, and that sides threads right on the bottom have been butchered like a mofo. bottomed out it looks like. with a hammer. yeah. So it was a nice try, but the lug nut trick worked perfect. took a back one off, took it to car quest, and bamo. New nut. but yeah, Die tips? is there like a tool im supposed to use, or just use a wrench?

so it is. 12x1.25... awesome. thanks. all in all, i've spent 7.15 5.25 for the Die, .50 for the nut, 1.40 for the nut the first time neat.

Haha, nuts*** not bolts**** anyway. Nuts are like 1.40 here. so, im gonna go exchange them until i get the right one. Having no job, i literally have NO money.

Okay. I may have gone to an idiot for a parts store. But M8 seems WAY too small. M8 refers to the size of the bolt right? 1.25 thread pitch? It looks like a 12 or 13. So... yeah. The bolt I have, looks like a shock tower bolt.

Well. I would, except I lost the nut. When it falls off, your tire does some stupid stuff. Mine rubbed the backside of the fender wall, then lost all camber control. Luckily I was 30 feet from my house, so i basically go jacked it to my house. I never really understood what that arm did until it fell off. It keeps your effin wheel straight! the camber on that wheel is so messed up now, plus the wheel isn't really centered. I'm hoping that putting a nut back on it, and tightening it all the way down, will straighten it back up. And the threads looked slightley boogered, so hopefully they aren't boogered to the point of killing it. If it is, I'm screwed. Thank you guys. So much. Soob fourms are a lifesaver. No joke. And yea, Its the 82. EJ, AWD swap will come one of these days when i'm rich. xD

I'm sorry if this is a re-post, I searched and couldn't find it. 88 DL non turbo, FWD. I need the thread pitch for the control arm castle nut. Mine got lost.... then the arm fell off while driving. *NOTE* just using a cotter pin, not a good idea in retrospect. I managed not to f anything up too bad, I think. I just need that size by 1700, CST. (5 PM) I have a job starting on monday, and all the parts stores around me and within 50 miles close on the weekends. Does anyone know the thread pitch? It's the passenger side, not sure if it matters. But yeah. Help please?

I didn't know if it was a LSD still or if it was welded solid. the guy that owned it before the guy i bought it did some mod work.

The cv is broke. I checked about 30 minutes ago, then got on to see whats good here. Okay, the joint underneath the boot is broke... in half. so, new CV shaft for me. thanks guys. ill look up the 4wd v. awd swaps

Actually, it is illegal in SOME states, not all. Kansas and Mississippi have no cat law that I am aware of. They have no emission or inspection test. Plus, it isn't illegal all over the world. That is worth mentioning also. Haha, i totally just realize i sounded like a complete wongleflute. Yeah, didn't mean for that, but if your going to point out that it is illegal, point it out correctly.

Okay, i looked through the forums, and i couldn't find anything about this. 1988 GL-10 (i think) 1.8 non turbo, 3AT, FWD. When i shift into drive, nothing happens, but the speedo reads 15. I thought at first the CV shaft was done, but could it just be that castle nut and pin? I haven't had a chance to check because it's midnight, and I'm afraid if i start it it will mess it up worse. Any suggestions? when it's in park, it acts like it's in neutral, which leads me to believe CV. The boot on the CV is ripped clean in half on the pass side, but the driver boot is still good. What I'm wondering is, why doesn't the driver wheel grab? are the cv's driven off each other, or both off the trans? I used to mess with civics alot, but i never had to replace a cv, usually it was motor swaps. And that leads me to this. I haven't looked for this one yet, so don't flame me if it's been asked. I want to make this car AWD, and i figure, what the hell, its broke, might as well upgrade while its being torn down. What goes in it (trans code), where can i find a MT AWD drivetrain, and how difficult is this going to be? I read the write-up on the AT to MT, and those are easy. My 89 supra got an MT. I'm in Kansas, and i don't have a problem driving to a bordering state to get a good, working, nothing needs replaced drivetrain.

my dash clock showed up upside down one day, thendimmed out for 3 days, not its back set two hours. its and by upside down, i mean, it was literally 4:78 but flipped. it freaked me out, i thought my roomate had flipped it until i saw the colon. I also figured out the rough idle. the throttle wire has managed the bumfuzzle itself so loose that i have to press half the gas to get it to rev. the bolts are rusted stuck, and i dont want to break them, any suggestions as to the rust? WD-40 did nothing.

200 bucks my good sir. and the great news is.... it fixed itself. a bottle of Lucas, a tank of premium, and and some sea foam.

I'm thinking my car got rebadged. It doesn't have digital anything, and it has manual everything. FWD, non turbo, with some defiantly non luxurious seats. My title says GL-10, my car says gl-10 (i think), but i ran the VIN trying to get insurance, and it came up a DL. dude. weak sauce.

My 88gl has 200k on the motor, with an overhaul at 100k. It has a really, really rough idle, until you get it up to about 2K, and it has a really bad hesitation, just like WASH. I however have a different variable. I have a really loud ticking sound. The guy i bought it from told me a collapsed lifter, but it doesn't have a miss, ever, so i assume the valve's are opening. Am I wrong in this assumption? and would this have anything to do with the rough idle and hesitation with no power? I've never really messed with H4's, but it works about the same as an in line 4 right cept the pistons are off to the side? I went over WASHroad's thread and the firing order might be off, the guy that owned it was a self proclaimed god when it came to soobs because he owns 7. So, what is the firing order off the dist, and which piston is which on the block? I took my car out last night and got it up to about 65, wouldn't go past that. would that be related to this, or an entirely different problem with the auto trans? It shifts, just wont really go. every once in awhile, it will shift from 2nd to 3rd, then back to 2nd, then to 3rd.

Hey guys. Just bought my first Subaru, a 1988 GL-10 Wagon. So here's the deal, I need to know what I can do with it. I really wanna make a rally car out it. It's a non turbo, and I live in Kansas, so dirt roads abound. No really gonna rally race it, just more like off road rally for giggles. Let me know guys. I don't want to do a WHOLE lot of fab work, but I also want to make it AWD.