dec0y13

I know I'm saving up for a 2" lift on my brat. Any idea how big a tire will fit on a 2"? (going to go to Toyota 15" rims)

In the future I want to convert to Fuel injection and need an ECU, but for now I just want to figure out where all the loose cables go. I have some things that aren't working, (no chime at all, seat belt warning, door indicators and so on) so maybe these will fix that. BTW You're right about the green connectors, I hooked that up and shorted out the horn fuse!

All these are under the steering wheel and looking up from the floorboards. This is out of an 86' BRAT. Oddly enough I do not have a computer. My BRAT does not have power steering, power mirrors, or AC. Still I'd like to know what the connectors go to. (I might upgrade) If you know, just give me the number from the pic and what the connector goes to More to come, I got wires under the passenger seat too!

dang! now I want to hook up the chime...now where is that connector? BTW I'm reasonably sure that this is not the stock ignition, maybe the chime connector is different?

Yeah I wonder if the bulb is burned as well. I figured that the plunger "out" meant it would be on all the time. Pushing it in and out does not do anything. I'll test the wiring and then pull out the cluster to check the bulb. thanks guys, really big help so far

The passenger side taillight works great. Everything works on the driver's side except the night time running lights. (turn signal, brakes and reverse are all fine) I'm using an 1157 dual element bulb, one element is for brakes, the 2nd for night time running. I've tried several bulbs but nothing works. (now i just have a large collection from different cars and some new as well) I tested the current and it seems it is getting about 8 volts to the bulb when the car is not running. I sanded the contacts and cleaned all the connectors. I even lubed the connector plate to be sure it wasn't sticking. I am getting current to the connector. No matter what I do I can't get the night time lights to work. Is my voltage low? Wrong bulb? any one else have this issue?

I'm trying to wire my BRAT back to where everything works. I can't seem to get the 4WD light to come on in the gauge cluster. When I put in in 4WD lo the "LO" icon lights up. I have the black switch that connects to the 4WD shifter and it tests good, but I'm not sure if it does anything. I cant seem to find the switch for the lo gears anywhere. I wonder if the 4WD indicator switch is close by? Am I looking in the wrong place? Does this switch do anything? Where is the 4WD indicator switch?

HA! found it. there is a green connector that was connected into another almost the same color green connector that was a direct short. what a pain! I have a clock, 4 ways and a horn now. On the the next electrical issues. anyone know what these green connectors are supposed to connect to? One comes out of the harness and the other leads from the steering collum.

can I just take the brakes and rotors, or do i need the knuckle as well?? I assume i use the loyal seals?

Yeah. I don't have a radio installed yet, but some of the wiring in there is a bit scary. I'll be checking some of that out today

SWEET! ok that was what I was looking for. I assume the ti rod ends will switch over as well if they are in better shape than mine. Should fit my ride just fine. I'm running the 14" Peugeot rims anyway and have the rear disk brake setup as well. Next season I hope to do the Single port injection as well.

I have a nasty short in my brat.(well i have allot of electrical issues, but we'll start with this one) the 15 amp fuse for the horn , clock and 4 way blinkers has an explosive short in it. (blows a fuse instantly) Does anyone have a pdf of a clear wiring diagram or short finding advice? So Far: I have unplugged the horn, I still have the short. The clock works, but the horn and 4 way blinkers do not. ALSO, the 4WD, door and seatbelt indicators do not work either. the 4WD indicator switch tests good, but it does not light in the dash console. (I did manage to repair the glove compartment light and dome light) Is it possible the 4 way blinker relay is bad, if so, where is it? any help is appreciated

Worked great! The 4 digit code worked fine and now I can lock and unlock all kinds of stuff WHOOT!!!

HA!! OK sure enough! Took only 3 phone calls and I found a local locksmith who can do it! The trick is you need some one who has the OLD punch key cutter. there is no computer code for it. My dealer is new, so they can't make or find the right code. You need to ask the right questions to the locksmith. He had the right key cutter and blank. $16 to cut it. I'l run down there later and lets see if this works. I'll let you guys know. Thanks for all the help so far.

this is the problem I ran into. the subaru guys said I needed a 5 digit code, but the code I have is only 4. A letter and 3 numbers. guys at subaru said I needed another number as well. guess I'll call and see.

I have the code from the door. I went to the Subaru place and they said they needed a 5 digit code that was mostly letters I Have a 4 digit code, "W123" type. can the smith use that?

I have an 86' brat and the key for the ignition does not work the glove compartment or doors. One guy said he could if I got the code. Well, I got it, but he dropped off the Earth. anyone else?

Ahh. I thought that there was a simple swap where you could use the brakes and axles. I'm not equipped to go though all that. (sigh) Well It least I can do the fuel injection conversion.

Gen 2 brat (86')

Wasn't there a thread on this at one time? I can't seem to find it. I was thinking about moving most of the front end running gear from a loyal wagon to my brat. I was wondering what will transfer over and what were the benefits (besides better axles) Sooner or later I hope to lift this thing, will this help in the future?

tachometer. I'm working on 2 Brats. One is my buddies. his tach does not work. where should I start looking. have a repair manual, but it's not super helpful with trouble shooting these types of things. Anyway all suggestions are helpful.

Pretty Sweet! It's a USB, 800 DPI, Optical mouse. Hate to think what shipping to the States would be though

The new link worked. DANG! clean brat. wish you were closer to me.

Just seems too dark to me. I'd like it better if there was a set with a silver lip. I think the spokes will look good though.

If I do it, I'll need to whole set up. Like I said I may be able to get the deal from the junkyard. I just haven't gone to get prices yet. That being said, I can never pass up a good deal Sugar City in in SE Idaho here's a zip for shipping est. 83448