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In 2003, the cabin air filtration system is optional for the Outback and Outback Limited, and standard equipment for the H6 model. If you do have one, it would be mounted underneath the passenger side dash, below and behind the glove compartment. The cabin air filter is mounted with two screws. This link may help you locate it: https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/library/Legacy%20Air%20Filter.pdf

Do title search for "clutch pedal" and you'll see some threads on clutch pedal sticking (down to the floor). It's probably a hydraulic issue, not a mechanical one.

Yes, it is just nomal condensation. Where you find puddles will also depend on the surface on which you are parked. As we are on the topic of the ac, run it at the lowest setting at low rpm for a few minutes every month, even during the winter, to circulate the oil in the system and prolong the service life of your ac compressor. Most of you probably already know this.

I think we should remember this very good point when thinking about cost. I have ridden motorcycles all my life, for which OEM parts, including air filters (whether they be foam or paper) cost upwards of 2 to 3 times as much as their automotive counterparts. It is the "economy of scale" that accounts for lower prices on on a car air filter that is almost identitical to that of a motorcycle. Hence, given the law of demand, and the inverse relationship between demand and price, if every automotive company determined that an air hog or K&N filter improved both mileage and power, the prices for these items would decrease significantly. Some of the higher prices for aftermarket "performance enhancing" items can also be attributed to marketing, which tends to sell men "power and performance," while other industries push products to women that claim to keep them young forever -- both often at exorbitantly high prices. Agreed, this is a good thing to keep in mind when faced with any product that claims to improve mileage and performance. I saw a recent ad for this thing called a "FuelMaster" which consisted of two magnets that clamped together around your intake fuel hose. It claimed to atomize the hydrocarbon clusters in gasoline, thereby resulting in more efficient buring of the fuel and increasing fuel mileage by 10-20%. Again, if a $30 magnet increased mileage by this percentage, every automotive manufacturer would be using them. Remembering back to a high school chemistry class, I also realized hydrocarbons in gasoline have dipole moments too insignificant to cause "clustering." And to continue with the motorcycle example, aftermarket performance products (exhaust, fuel delivery, and air intake) in this parallel industry do increase power when properly calibrated to achieve the stoichiometric ratio, but motorcycles do not have to pass EPA emissions inspections on an annual basis, only in production. With carbureted models, this would often involve rejetting, and now, some even install aftermarket computers on fuel injected models in order to alter fuel delivery and ignition timing for the goal of increasing horsepower, but you can only measure real gains by doing before and after dynometer runs.

I am not sure if there are any serviceable bulbs in the tape deck display, but you could pull it out and remove the face to check. It's probably a poor connection that may need to be soldered if you have intermittent function. They're also available for relatively little money on ebay, where you can also get a brand new Subaru (Clarion) CD changer for under $100 including shipping on ebay. They're very easy to install, all you need is a plastic plate ($35) from the dealer that mounts the changer under the passenger seat. Good luck.

Very interesting debate regarding economic principles. 99obw, I don't want to go off topic on this thread, but do you think the same economy of scale argument that you are making here would apply to the synthetic motor oil industry. I know from previous threads that you run Amsoil, in part, for its higher viscosity (Cst of about 12 at 100 degrees C), but do you think its higher price in comparison to, say, Mobil 1 equates to higher overall quality. I don't want to turn this air filter thread into an Amsoil/Mobil 1 debate -- just want you 2 cents on this specific question.

Say, Craig: How is that you, a 29-year-old like me will have posted his 1300th message if you respond to this question?

Forgot to type the second question: (2) Do leave the wires mounted to the tab above the drawbar acceptor?

Thanks, I'll check it out, and post my findings for other forester owners. I have two questions: (1) Do you get any moisture in the spare tire compartment? (2) Now that I think about it, while I was under the car installing the hitch, I did see a grommet. This may be a good option because, we travel w/ our two labs, and running the wires under the gate may pose some problems.

Thanks for tip; if it has to dangle out the back, I guess the area near the hatch is the best place to send the wires.

Hi, I just intstalled a Draw-Tite Class II hitch on my car, but the instructions say nothing about how to route the wiring harness to the hitch. I am assuming that the wires don't just dangle under the rear gate, over the bumper, and out the back. Is there a way to route the wiring under the bumper to the towbar accepter? Thanks for you help.

Not sure if Subaru sells one, but you can find them at www.expressautoparts.com for $18, free shipping on orders over $50.

You can find repair manuals on CD-ROM off ebay for about $20, including shipping. As for running your car w/o a thermostat, this will prolong the period of time that your car is operating at temperatures lower than optimum temperature -- not as severe during warmer months, but this will result in poorer running and decreased fuel mileage. To be safe, replace the thermostat w/ one from Subaru; you can find the best prices at www.1stsubaruparts.com. Also replace the thermostat seal, for which you will need to contact the above site for the part #. The thermostat housing is mounted to the water pump. Follow your lower raditator hose toward the bottom of the left (driver's) side of the engine, and it will lead you to the thermostat housing. Undo the two hoses and remove the two bolts, and voila, the thermostat will pop right out. If you haven't already done so, this would be a good time to flush and refill the cooling system, w/o the thermostat. As for the rough running engine, it could be multiple things, ranging from simple to complicated. You could start w/ the simple stuff: air filter, spark plugs, and the fuel filter. Instructions for replacing these items should be in your owner's manual. The fuel fitler is located behind the washer fluid resevoir. There are also many threads on this site about fuel filter replacement so you can do a search. Good luck!

Phase I heads: you have the DOHC valve train, though I do not know what specific changes were made to the block in the Phase II 2.5 engine. Foresters were equipped with the Phase II heads and block beginning in 99, and Legacies and Outbacks in 2000. The Phase II engines are prone to external coolant leaks, which are not nearly as severe, if quickly addressed, as the internal leaks seen in Phase I engine. As for the your oil leak, 99obw is correct. If you have trouble locating the leak, you could try thoroughly degreasing your engine with a non-toxic chemical like simple green. Check to see if there is oil dripping from the bottom of the timing belt cover; if so, it's a leak from your cam seals and/or front crank seal. This would probably involve a T-belt change due to oil contamination. If it's coming from the rear between the engine and the transmission, the rear crankshaft seal is only $10 or so but labor is equivalent to that of a clutch job. But if it's as easy as the valve cover gasket, it's a very simple job.

Cool -- that's exactly what I'm planning to do, unless I get more advice to the contrary. Thanks, though I am sorry that this advice comes at the expense of your engine, especially as you were just shy of the 300K-mile mark.

Yup, check out "theotherskip" Here is the link for his write-up; it's so good that it almost brought me to tears: http://mysite.verizon.net/vze730qe/...eplacement.html

I am definitely changing the water pump - they failed at around 100K on previous Hondas my family has owned - and, you're right, I wouldn't want to chance it with these engines. Even if water pump failure does not result in valve train damage, I would rather not flush the cooling system more often than the 30K-mile intervals.

Hello All, I've read through all the threads concerning Timing Belt replacements, and have noticed some conflicting info. concerning the tensioner and the idlers. I have a Phase II 2.5 engine for which the replacement intervals are 105K miles, and, thanks to this invaluable forum, I am up to date on all other items that should be replaced: i.e. water pump, T-stat and seal, cam seals (2), crank (seal), and oil pump service. But some say that they've never seen a T-belt tensioner go bad while others have seen them fail. I have two questions: 1)How do you check if the idlers are ok, aside from making sure that they're rolling smoothly when the belt is off? The Phase II 2.5 engine has 3 idlers, 1 cogged roller and 2 smooth rollers. 2) Will the tensioner hold up until the 2nd T-Belt replacement at 210K miles (I imagine that either the the smooth roller or the spring-loaded pin could go on this assembly)? If you've replaced these items, please inidcate the mileage at which they were done. My driving habits are pretty conservative, with longevity and gas mileage in mind rather than performance. I drive about 50/50 highway/city. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

You can find the kits at www.1stsubaruparts.com for about $20 per caliper. They include caliper pin boots (4), piston seals (2), piston boots (2) and metal retaining clips (2). The service representative at www.1stsbuparts.com told me that they come as axles sets, but you should call and verify. Alternatively you can also get aftermarket kits, which do not include the caliper pin boots, from www.precisionbrakescompany.com. Their website doesn't show it, but they come as axle sets. I just received a set in the mail today, and even their catalogs don't show the front kits as axle sets so I wound up with more stuff than I need. I would go for these if your caliper pin boots look good, and these kits are less than half the price of those offered by Subaru. Also, you should overhaul both sides at the same time, and make sure that you thoroughly clean the calipers with brake cleaner and an air compressor while you have them apart. Take care.

Hey Ted, You can research year to year changes and specific trims at http://www.cars101.com. Good luck.

You can get the windshield replaced for around $300, including the molding if necessary. The windshield itself will run you around $100 if you put it in yourself. Have you checked out websites like windshieldstogo.com or done a search for autoglass. Most of these places subconract with mobile installers so they'll come right out to you. On a totally unrelated topic, did you ever post some stuff on the Honda Hawk GT - I'm sure there are other Jim Davis's out there, but just had to ask.

They certainly protect the leading edge of the hood, and deflect smaller rocks and bugs at freeway speeds, but leaves and debris can also become lodged between the deflector and the the hood and cause corrosion or damage to the fininsh. As for fasteners, you can an automotive outlet like Pep Boys for a piece of hardware that might work for this application. It's really hit or miss. Or, 3M also makes a velcro tape that works quite well.

Right, filters rarely, if ever, plug up, but I think that changing them allows you to put some new oil into the engine, thereby replenishing the buffers that neutralize acids in the oil. According to one long term study, this really extends the life of an oil: http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/oil-life.html. BTW, great lookin' dog. American bulldog or Pit Bull?

22-24 mpg around town mixed driving 26-27 mpg on summertime road trips w/ two big dogs, car fully loaded, and AC on. These are close to the projected figures. Car is well maintained w/ Subaru parts (no K+N filter). Mobil 1 in the engine, trans., and rear differential.

You've received great advice. If your are at all mechanically inclined, you could rebuild the calipers yourself with overhaul kits from www.1stsubaruparts.com and go with high quality aftermarket rotors (from a reputable company like Brembo) and brake pads. It would cost you $200-$250 in parts. As Jamie said, it's not a very difficult job.