jboymechanic
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Posts posted by jboymechanic
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I have a '95 Legacy wagon that is acting strangely. The turn signals, hazards, and parking light functions all work properly other than when I press the brake pedal, then the right/driver side turn signal stays on/stops flashing. The indication in the gauge cluster stays on as well, not sure about the rear tail light/signal as I was alone and couldn't see it. The car does have a 4 wire plug for a trailer that was not installed by me if that helps. What could be going on here?
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How about a jeep chasis? That Bronco chasis looked a bit long, not sure if a jeep chasis would be too short.
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But it has to seal properly. I'm not worried about the drilling and tapping, but how do I ensure that I create the correct sealing surface for the EGR tube?
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No, thats just the AT&T garage. I'm not allow to use it, although, I could if I get there late enough (After 10pm) and no one would know.
Except for all of us...
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its easy.... the hole is already cast into the head. just needs opened up and tapped. I have all the specs at my shop if you want them. If you do a search you might find them too( ive posted them up a couple times)
Yeah, send them my way. If anything I could send the head to work with my dad, he's a machinist with 47 years experience so I bet he could handle it.
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How hard would it be to add an EGR tube port to a non EGR head? I would want it to be done right, I cannot stand even minor exhaust leaks near the engine. I do have access to a bridgeport mill. Any advice? I'm currently looking for the proper head (phase 1 EJ22 with dual exhaust ports and EGR port), this would be my fall back plan.
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Oh, and by the way, does a 4.11 LSD exist? How interchangeable are Subaru rear diffs? What years/models are interchangable (I suspect there are differences in axle length and spline count)?
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It appears I got lucky on this one. The guy that sold me the engine and trans on Craigslist said the EJ22 and 4EAT came out of a 1993 Legacy. So, according to the legacycentral.org (specific link below), that would have made it a 3.90 gear ratio trans and incompatible with my 1995 Legacy wagon which has a 4.11 gear ratio. To be certain, I checked the trans numbers and here's what I found.
In my '95 Legacy: TZ102ZAAAA-C7
Trans from CL: TZ102ZA1AA-JS
Again, according to the legacycentral, my engine and trans are actually out of a 1991 and therefore should be the 4.11 ratio and the same as my '95.
Wanting to be more certain still, I checked my rear diff for a gear ratio and found nothing other than a "T 2" sticker, and the following castings:
314
4Z
KN51
Can any one confirm my findings?
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I think I'll head to a junk yard and look for a '95/OBDII EJ22 complete manifold assembly with EGR and the one matching head and basically convert my '93 engine to a '95. That way I will have two correct engines, one waiting and ready to go.
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You are gonna need a 37 degree flaring tool(not standard automotive 45 degree) and special fittings.
Standard sized tubing and metric threaded AN fitting adapters.(do they even exist?)
Why bother with stainless?
Regular brake line is a piece of cake.
Never hear of a 37 degree flare, but I have the tools to do both 45 degree and DIN/bubble flares of all the common standard and metric sizes.
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Well, I did buy the '93 EJ22 and auto trans and it came with the ECU. I plan to just swap the intake manifold, but not sure what to doe about the EGR. Since I still plan on doing head gaskets I could swap the heads as well rather than drilling my own EGR port in the head. Just out of curiosity, could I use the '93 ECU in my '95 car so I wouldn't have to deal with the EGR at all? Perhaps I will experiment.
Now, I didn't really need the trans but I was crunched for time and I thought I could just separate it from the engine and sell it later if I wanted to. A couple of things to consider are the speedo, sport mode, and gear ratios. I believe the speedo in my '95 is electronic (sensor) versus the mechanical (cable) of the '93 and I'm not sure if that can be over come. Sport mode I think can be accomplished by grounding out a terminal on the ECU or TCU. The final question, how do I identify the gear ratio on both transmissions? Any thoughts or experience on the other items is appreciated as well.
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I'm not sure what size the lines and fittings are on Japanese cars. I know that for every American car I have ever owned the brake line size is 3/16". Stainless is harder to work with in terms of both bending and flaring, but not too bad with a little practice. Perhaps when it starts to warm up in the spring we can have a head gasket repair & brake line bending day at my house.
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Tom, does the fuel gauge in your Legacy work? I like that you're on empty and your CEL is on buy you're going 100 mph any way.
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Tom,
If you ever do need to replace a line and want to use stainless steel I've gotten pretty good and bending as I have good tools and I have a professional brake line flaring tool (worth every penny of the $250 I paid for it), not one of those crummy $25 kits from craftsman. Just so you know.
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I have a '95 Legacy wagon with automatic that I just bought for $250. The engine needs a head gasket and the transmission needs a duty C cycle. On Sunday I'm picking up a '93 EJ22 dual exhaust port engine with auto trans combo (still together). Both engines are phase one and dual port, but the '93 is OBDI while my car is OBDII. What kind of issues might I run into? I will have the ECU from the '93 if that helps, but I also assume I can just swap out the intake from my '95 and put it onto the '93 along with any other sensors that may have different wiring.
Any known issues I might run into and how can I over come them? The '93 engine and trans are ready to run and the cost is $300. Thanks in advance.
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Lol, the car is now named "Crazy Lori" as that was the ladys name which he bought it from, and man was she bat sh*t crazy OMG! The car has a Good luck monk on the window (Which she said is ours to keep) lol sure thing lady, that is the first thing to come off this car! Then she was like (Don't tell my co-workers any of this, but my daughter was on heroin and blah blah blah, so the car over heated outside of the ER) We're both thinking, "Lady! We don't even know you, nor where you work, nor do we wish to. How could it ever be possible to tell your co-workers any of this?"
OMG she was sooooo crazy! She gave me this paper with stupid crap thats been done to that car, she made it like this paper had the launch codes for a nuclear missile (It was the important to her)
OMFG, SHE WAS SOOOOO CRAZY!!
That lady was crazy! The best was her "rust proofing" which consisted of smearing on gobs of bondo into rust and then slapping some green paint on top of it. And if you're bored/high as hell maybe a little extra on the wheels and hubcaps.
The price was right though, $250 (was asking $500), but I'm guessing many other potential buyers were put off once they talked to her. Should have seen the inside of her house, it was like we were in an episode of Hoarders. She signed the title and gave me the keys before I even paid her. If I wasn't an honest guy I probably could have walked out of there with a free car and she would have never even noticed.
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Rescued by a GM product, tsk tsk tsk, you shame us all!
Dave
GM used to own a share of Fuji Heavy Industries, so technically Subarus were GMs for a while.
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So I guess I won't be swapping the dash out ever...
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Can the digital dash in a GL-10 be swapped out for an analog dash? My digidash works just fine, but I get sick of the speedometer when it goes 55,54,55,54,55,54,55,56,55,56,55,54 and so on. Plus, it was an automatic swapped to a 5 speed dual range, so I have the gear indicators on the dash that are now useless. Can the digital dash gauge cluster be removed and replaced with a standard gauge cluster without any modifications? My car is a 1987 GL-10 if that matters.
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It's fairly common for the adjustable height cars to have the struts replaced with standard ones, I purchased my car in the same condition. Not sure if those original struts are still available, but if they are they will probably cost you a pretty penny. I would also recommend getting an intercooler setup for your car as the turbo cars are problematic. It's only a matter of time before you blow a head gasket, in my opinion (and experience), the intercooler should help prevent or delay that from happening.
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Does the noise sound like clicking that increases with speed? If so, most likely a worn axle, pretty common for these cars.
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It's funny as those are the axles that I almost bought, but didn't after doing some more reading as my transmission is not the original. I found that I had to order the 23 splines form my car since I have a non-turbo trans.
You're welcome, it's about time I could help you with something Tom.
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EMPI 25 spline axles are the 4th axle listed in the link below:
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1987/subaru/gl10/driveshaft_-ar-_axle/axle_assembly.html
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Tom, I bought those new EMPI axles that we installed on my GL-10 from partsgeek.com and they were complete assemblies. I would bet the silicone is great, I know they are heat resistant as more and more kitchen hardware is being replace by soft silicone. For example, my wife has a silicone muffin pan for baking. I believe they are okay for up to 600 degrees F of continuous exposure!
Strange Turn Signal Behavior
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Well, I haven't even started driving the car yet, so it's been sitting for a couple of months waiting for warmer weather to do a head gasket job. Wondering if the critters are chewing on my wires?