Lorryb

Deer are bad to hit, cows are bad to hit but at least they won't jump into you like a deer will but the absolute worst is a moose "lap dance"

Its pretty easy to replace them all, at least in the EJ22 it is. Be sure to do both cam seals, the crank seal, the oil pump o-ring and make sure the screws in the back of the oil pump are tight. Some folks recommend changing the water pump at the same time but I didn't, your call. A note of caution, when removing the Tbelt crank gear be careful not to snap off the little ears - They's important - I found out the hard way. To remove the seals just carefully prise them out with a small flat screwdriver. Somebody somewhere also mentioned to put the crank seal on "after" replacing the oil pump, don't put the seal in the pump housing and then try and mount the pump. Also be sure and torque the balancer/crank pulley to spec, if it loosens off it can play hell with your engine. Check out this site: http://www.ravensblade-impreza.com/techdocs/pdf/engine/timingbelt.pdf Good Luck and have fun.

Do a search here for Heater or resistor or blower fan. There is some info on that issue. IIRC - the fan only working on high indicates a blown resistor. On a Legacy its easy to get at, just remove the glove box door and there it is. I think there are even pics of it on the thread. Unfortunately I tried a search but couldn't find anything! Most peculiar, it seems as though I could only search the last month's posts.

I posted this question over at LegacyCentral as well. Hopefully someone will be able to help! Driver's side rear cv (inner) boot is shot so I thought I'd replace the whole shaft. To remove the shaft you're supposed to remover the disc, hub nut etc then the lower link bolt. Then push the hub outward and remove the shaft. Hmm, easier said than done. The nut on the link bolt was a little reluctant but nothing a good long breaker bar couldn't handle. Then tried to remove the bolt, not a chance! It's like its welded in there! I can't even turn it. (Actually I tried too hard, sheared the drive off my wimpy Craftsman ratchet) Any ideas on how to get that sob out? I am hesitant to put heat on it as that will likely be the end of the rubber bushings on the lateral links. Or should I forge ahead (nice pun huh!). I guess I could always replace the bushings. I have to get it done soon, that universal is howling. TIA.......Lorry

What was I thinking? The rear seat in a sedan isn't anything like the wagon seats, sorry. But if you need other parts, I have lots I'm not going to use.

I have a 91 LS wagon with rear head rests, I also am parting out a 91 LS Sedan, I can check to see if there are head rests. The LS had a split fold down rear seat, does yours? The parts car is a grey interior and the rear seats are in excellant shape. I'll repost a little later after I check for the headrests. ( I am in Manitoba)

The PV Solenoid is under the intakes on top of the engine, passenger side, you can see the two little hoses and the plug if you look between the pipes. Its easy to get out but a bitch to get back in. You need about a 10" extension on your ratchet to get at it from the rear of the engine. I don't remember what size the nut is holding it on but a previous post mentioned the size. The hard part is getting that nut to start after you replace the PVS. BTW, my check engine light was on for over a year cause I never got around to changing it. Never noticed any improvement in mileage or performance once I did except that the CEL ain't on anymore. YMMV

Do a google search for "Joe Spitz Subaru" He is a dealer/sales person in Seattle and maintains a Subaru archive of the specs of the Legacies. I don't think there are pics but the rest of the specs are there. One thing though, Oz models may be different than US ones

On the EJ22 the key secures both the crank pulley and the crank Timing belt gear. It sounds like others have had success with rebuilding the keyway by welding. That may be your only course of action. When my pulley got loose and wobbled, it caused the tbelt to skip, throwing out the timing. I had to replace the key, the pulley and the gear, the pulley keyway was worn and I broke a crank sensor tab off the gear. I was lucky though the keyway on the crank was ok. Good luck.

The odometers are of course in kilometers and I have heard people use the term "klicks" but I generally just shorten kilometers to "K". As in my 91 Legacy as two hundred and eighty thousand K on it. A lot of people won't even mention the units. If you ask what the "mileage" is they will tell you 160 thousand or some such with no mention of units. Funny thing though, nobody ever asks what the "kilometerage" is on your car.

JOsh, what do you mean by the caliper guide pins? Is that the square casting that the square notch in the pads fit over?

Up here in metricanada, we refer to mileage as MPG "miles per gallon" although our gallons are imperial so they are somewhat larger than US gallons (US gallons X 0.83 = Imp. gallons). The govt. has tried its best to make us use a metric equivilent but for a lot of us it just doesn't make sense. The official term for mileage would be litres per hundred kilometers. My 91 Legacy usually gets somwhere around 8 l/100k (which translates to 35.3 miles per Imperial gallon or 29.4 miles per US gallon.) I still end up converting to mpg to compare with other cars. (But I'm getting better!)

I replaced the pads and the rotors last winter and up until recently they were fine. About a 2 weeks ago there was some nasty grinding noises coming from my rt. front wheel. Sounded exactly like pads worn down to the metal. I pulled the wheel and I could see that the metal shims/backing plates for the outer pad had shifted/slipped out of place. They had moved forward and bent around the end of the pad, scraping on the rotor. I pulled the pads and straightened the shims and replaced. Everything worked fine until this pulsation thing started about a week ago. Most peculiar. BTW, the rotor looked fine, no scoring or significant wear (ie. no lip near the outer edge).

My 91 Legacy AWD wagon is behaving strangely. When driving cold the first few stops show severe pulsation on the front. Much as if the rotors are badly warped. After 4 or 5 stops the pulsation goes away and the brakes behave normally again. What's up with that? Anybody else ever get something like that? Lorry

Hey Bru - Dive in, the water's not half bad, especially when there's all sorts of help to be had from the regulars at USMBNG. The Endwrench archive has a good article on the T-belt change for the EJ22. There is also another excellant article on doing the belt on the 2.5 but I'll have to hunt that one down if you need it. http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtCamBeltReplaceW01.pdf It was very helpful, although there are a few tricks and tips I got from the regulars that made it go a lot quicker. I just finished doing the T-Belt on my 91 Legacy so I still remember how I did it. (That memory should last another 48 hrs or so) What year/model are you thinking of doing. I will be of limited help with anything other than a 1st generation Legacy ie the EJ22 engine. Quick tip No. 1 - Taking off the alternator and fans helps get you some much needed room and only takes a minute. Quick Tip No. 2 - When removing the T-belt gear on the crank DO NOT... I repeat DO NOT pry on the little tabs on the gear or break them off........they are very important (and they are verrrry tempting to pry on if you're having trouble slipping that gear off the crank.

I am about to pull the rear wheel/hub from my donor Subie and replace the one on my "good" 91 Legacy. It would appear to be pretty simple, just disconnect/detach all those suspension bits, drive out the pin on the CV and the whole unit should come free! Is there any particular order I should be dismantling it in? Or any secrets I should know about when I attack this? Any pointers from those of you who have done this would be appreciated. TIA........Lorry

You might have more success if you posted this in USMB Marketplace............ Good luck.........Lorry

Thanks for the input all, Guess I'll order the valve cover and bolt gaskets and change them, certainly can't hurt. Josh, I did change the cam and crank seals, and the oil pump o-ring but I left the water pump alone. It seemed to be alright and I didn't notice any leakage around the base of it. BTW, how does one change the rear cam seals? Is it major invasive surgery like the T-Belt?

Ok, now that I've got my timing belt issues cleaned up I want to clean up the rest of the nagging things on this car. While underneath I noticed oil leakage along the bottom of the valve covers. Is this a typical early (91-94) Legacy problem. Can I just change the valve cover gaskets and expect the leaks to be cured or is there some other cause here I'm missing (or going to find out about when I pull the covers)? TIA... Lorry

SHE RUNS!!! Thanks to all the help I got from everybody here at USMB, my Legacy is up and running. It kinda threw a scare into me though, at first go I spun it for about 30 seconds or so and no go. Pulled a plug and could see no fuel was getting there, so I scratched my head for a while and then thought maybe the injectors had just dried out or something and it just needed a longer spin. Sure enough after about 45 seconds more of spinning, a few coughs and away she went. Big puffs of white smoke coming out to the exhaust pipe. Oh! Oh! So I took it for a quick spin just to see if it would continue belching smoke but it cleared up right away. I vaguely remember somebody once saying that kind of thing can happen with a Subie 'cause of the horiz. opposed engine design. At any rate it seems to be running well now. Thanks again for everybodies' help and input. Lorry

Carl, I lucked out, the dealer has one in stock, gonna pick it up tomorrow and put it all back together again on Saturday. Who'd a thunk a little tab like that was important. I thought it was a handy thing to pry on to get the gear off! It should really be noted somewhere (don't know where) that those tabs are important and not to pry on them when trying to remove the gear. I had a tough of a time getting the gear off 'cause the key was bitched. Lorry

Cam pulleys are on correctly, sounds like the broken tab on the oil pump/crank gear is the culprit.

I don't know! How do I make sure that #1 is TDC? I just put the crank gear back on and rotated until the timing mark match the mark on the oil pump housing. First thing I'm gonna check is the cam pulleys, when I started out I had them set out so I would replace them correctly, but in all my mucking about I could have easily have switched them. I figure I have a 50% chance of them being on wrong!

Can anyone confirm this? I did snap off one of the tabs when removing the gear!

The light at the end of the tunnel was a train :madder: Put it all back together, checked all the torques, etc. gave the key at twist........rrrr, rrrr, rrr. Go figure! Looks like I'll have to tear it down again! Sounds suspiciously like the timing is not set right:confused: When I pulled the belt in the first place, the timing was out at least two teeth. Then at some point when the belt was off, I turned the crank somewhat, maybe a 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. When setting it back up I followed the procedures. First I rotated the crank to set the mark on the oil pump drive gear to match the timing mark on the oil pump housing, then I turned each cam pulley so the marks were at 12 o'clock. I then installed the belt and the two lines for the cams and the dotted line for the crank all lined up with their respective timing marks. Then as a precaution I manually rotated the crank until the marks came back up again (note that when the timing marks came back up the lines on the belt no longer lined up with the marks). So far so good. Then I put it all back together and tried to start it. NO SUCH LUCK. Anybody got ANY idea what's happening here? Can the crank be out 180 degrees or something? I must admit that when putting the belt on the lines did not line up "exactly" with the timing marks, however, a whole tooth change either way would have put them out of line even more! I'm despondent.