jgrote

I found a rad. with a trans cooler that will fit. It's from a 93-96 Chrysler Concorde. I got it all mocked up and into place today with minimal cutting. The problem now is that I won't be able to get it into place with the motor in and I won't be able to get the motor in with rad. in. I need to come up with a way to get the rad in from the top. MOOR cutting!

I have run into a problem with my h6 swap that I need a little advice on. The rad. I will be using does not have provisions for a tranny cooler, so I'm going to have to run an external one. Since I'm keeping a/c, there is no room for it in front of the rad. I think I can fit something above the driver's side wheel well. My questions are: 1) How big of a cooler do I need? 2) Should I put a fan on it? 3) If so, should it just run when the car's on, or thermo-controlled? 4) Does anyone have experience with this? I like this style, because I wouldn't need a fan, but I'm not sure how well they work. I will cut a vent in the bottom of the liner to allow air to the cooler, but I would like to avoid a fan if possible. The heat sink type looks like it would be less prone to damage, but still wondering just how well they work.

After a long hiatus, I'm picking this project up again. I've freshened up the motor with new gaskets and a head job. I decided that my car was too rusty to bother with the swap, so I've been watching for a Forester from FL with a blown motor to do this to. I finally found one and plan to pick it up on Sat. or Sun. It's been parked for a few months and is very, very dirty. Now to get back to work. Has anyone else played with the TCU's anymore since I've put this down? There's a guy on RS25.com that got his to work, but he isn't telling me what wires he hooked up between the TCU and ECU. I guess I'm gonna figure it out on my own.

So I actually got to work on the donor a little the other day. It took me 4 1/2 hours to get the motor out, working by myself. I also labeled every plug and tubing I disconnected. That is time consuming in itself. I will try to make some pics work, but every time I think I have it figured out, I fail. HEY, something's missing here! Oh, there it is. I didn't unbolt these parts of the motor mounts.:icon_eek: And to think, I drove this car home. Pic for no reason This is all of the tools I used to get this motor out. I only used the impact wrench on the exhaust bolts, but I really didn't need to. There really isn't anything special here. The only casualty was a plug going to the steering rack, and the timing cover bolts are seized. They crack the plastic around the back part when I try to unbolt the front cover. Now it's time to start collecting parts. I'm am at least going to pull the heads and have them worked out a little. It needs valve stem seals. New gaskets, w.p., timing belt, etc. Hopefully I won't need to get into the block. We will see when the motor comes apart. This may wait until this fall though. For now it will get wrapped in plastic and descicant beads.

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f145/t129706-h6-lgt-go-fast-project.html

Yah, that is probably a site I would not frequent. My bad for thinking everybody knows about foresters. http://www.subaruforester.org/ Here's a link to the specific thread about the diff lock. It's basically the same info as here. There might be a little something to add though http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f89/4wd-demand-4eat-3091/

It will either be a in line clog of some kind or dirty condenser. Do you do any off-roading? I am not sure if you have an orifice tube, but that is a possibility.(orifice tubes are basically filters inside the lines) Can you find out why it's cutting out? High limit switch would be my guess.

From what I have gathered, it is held in with one bolt and is easily changed when the trans is out. I wouldn't worry too too much about that part. Edit: The only other thing I can think of is whether the have the same axle output styles. I believe it is sometimes referred to as innie vs outey stub axles.

I believe it will physically bolt up, but you may have issues with final drive, clutch type, and speedo. 1) Make sure the final drive is the same for both tranmissions. 2) Some subbies have push type and some have pull type clutch forks. Verify the 2 are the same. 3) Swap your speed sensor. You may also want to sign up at http://www.subaruforester.org/ and place a wanted ad. There are a few people on there that have done 6 speed swaps, so that may be good place to look. Come to think of it though, I believe they may all be XT guys. I believe your car should have a 4.44 final gear. Disclaimer I am no expert when it comes to mt's in subbies. I own 3 with 4EAT's, but I spend WAY too much time reading these forums, so I am just trying to pass on the info I've picked up.

Well, httrdd's runs and drives. It looks like the only concession on the trans is needing to lock it into 50/50 mode. Info on this is on SF.org.

You may want to contact Kennedy engineering. I don't know how much info they will give, but you never know. http://www.kennedyeng.com/

HaHa. Looking at pics on Ebay, it looks like all factory connections were done with wide band clamps. It looks like the inlet and outlet are at a 90 degree angle. Maybe I'll do side exit through the body. I am ages away from needing exhaust, but I CAN'T WAIT to see these things up close. God, I hope my Dr bud comes through. This would be the crowning jewel of the build.

More than just rear engine. It's titanium exhaust. If I can manage to get the motor in there, I can fab up some pipes. Biggest problem may be not being able to weld to it. How does one weld titanium?

On an unrelated note, I have read that with the proper exhaust, these 3.3l's can sound like a porsche. Do you think using OE porsche exhaust can aid in this? I may be getting FOR FREE a stock exhaust from a 996 twin turbo. Should sound niiiiiiiiice.

I have seen people look for the elusive ODB2 intake manifold and harness for months. If I run into one before I actually start the swap, and for a good deal, I may look into it. I honestly think it will be cheaper just to buy a phase1 trans. From the info gathered here though, it looks like I will need to do neither. It looks like it may be possible, and someone else is trying to do it right now. If he is successful, then I am golden.

If I could have found a ODB2 SVX, I would have. But, at this point, I have what I have. It would actually be cheaper to just buy a phase1 trans. If I have to go this route, I will. Although it looks like it's going to be possible.

Fixed:rolleyes:

Both. SVX's were ODB1 until 95. They went to ODB2 for 96-98. I am wanting to keep my trans from my 99 forester and mate it to a 92 SVX. My trans is a phase2, and the SVX uses a phase1. This conversation is to try to figure out how to make a phase2 trans happy by either fooling the TCU into being happy, or using a phase1 TCU with a phase2 trans.

Yeah, I already planned on using the multiplier for the tach, but if I use the SVX ECU and TCU, I won't need to "modify" the signal from the ECU to the TCU, right? Just to the tach. Would it be wiser to use a phase one TCU from something else rather than using the SVX one? Then I would need to run the RPM wire through the multiplier, but may solve some of other shifting issues. I still want to program out some of the more unwanted stuff in the TCU. I've read about a planned "slip" to make shifts smoother, and of course, the full throttle shift point. Good luck on your rally. Thank you for all the info guys!:):)

Thank you for all your research. I am trying to do all the homework first before I tear into my car, as to not have it down while I "learn" how to do this. I will be running the SVX ecu, I am not too worried about giving 5v to the ECU. All I need to do is figure out how to make the trans happy. I will have a MAF, so I might as well hook that wire up. Engine RPM shouldn't be a big deal either, as I assume the stock ECU of the SVX must already have an RPM wire to the stock transmission. So I guess hook up that one and see what happens? Although, I am very interested in a modified phase1 TCU to control a phase 2 trans, because that would make cutting the harness up much easier.

If I can't make my trans work, I won't go with an SVX trans. I will need a phase 1 trans out of a leggy gt to mate up with the correct ratio for my rear. I am still waiting to see if httrdd can get his running. He's swapping into a 99 leggy and attempting to keep his stock 4EAT. See here: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f145/t129706-h6-lgt-go-fast-project.html

Today was a good day for cutting things up. I got everything connected to the motor disconnected and drained. I don't want to pull the intake/exhaust until the motor is actually ready to come out. I even sold a few parts today. Httrdd over on RS25 got his running today, so that makes me want to hurry up. He is keeping a A/T in a 99 leggy, so if he can get his to shift correctly, I know I'll be good. But MY GOD it's hot here. The heat slows things down significantly.

I built a 1914cc type 1 VW for a sand rail. It was fun, but don't expect mind blowing speed. They are good for about 100hp. 1914 is the biggest type 1 you can build without stroking it. (stock 68mm crank, 94 mm pistons.) These motors can't take much compression. And if you do go this route, don't go crazy with carbs. 1.9l engine only needs so much gas. Sounds like a fun project.

What ind of kit car are you doing? Will it have a VW trans? I've always enjoyed doing those cars. Getting these motors to run with nothing but a donor car and lots of wire cutting isn't too bad.