hackasubaru

thanks guys! Got it all figured out last night

Finished soldering some wires. Tachometer is working now. Round black plug on cluster - yellow wire. Just needed the service manuals for the loyale to confirm which one it was. JD was kind enough to host them: http://jdfinley.com/file-downloads/subaru-manuals/ FYI - there is no "stamping" on one of the "tracks" that says "Tach". So actually having it pulled out and in front of me... I can confirm that. I've traced plenty of wires mapping out keyboards, mother boards, printer PCB's, etc... It's kinda what I do for money. I picked some plugs, assumed, took pictures and posted because it was late and had work the next morning. Good to go now.

I agree - when I had the 1.8L in my car; swapping to the weber made it so much better

Really? Because I'm pretty sure I understand circuit boards. I already looked for the "stamping" on one of the "tracks" as you say. I didn't see it in plain view. It's probably there; I just didn't spend alot of time looking yesterday. I understand "tracing it along the board" would lead me to the correct wire... I ran out of time and thought I'd post because someone would know off the top of their head. I had guessed it might be these two plugs on the EA car because it was similar to the legacy I pulled the harness from. I now know which wire to use from my first/second picture... Black/Blue - Tachometer Green/White - Oil pressure light White/Green - Collant temp gauge Just need to know the wire on the cluster for the EA car.. any takers? I'll figure it out later when I get home... again.. just thought someone might know off hand.

Hello All, So I've finally finished my EJ swap on my GL wagon.. finally.. I'm just now setting up my gauges and had a question about the tachometer. I'm wondering what wire to tap into on the cluster plug of the EA harness? The cluster wiring is still in place on the EJ harness so I just need to know which color is the tach wire on the legacy cluster(from the ECU to the dash plug) and which color is the loyale tach(dash plug)? I included a few pictures to help with explaining. I thought it was probably easier posting on here then sorting through my mess of printed out factory manual pages.. EJ harness wires going to cluster plug on the "legacy" harness. I'm pretty sure its one of these three just don't remember which one: And here is the cluster plug wires on the loyal car: And just because I'm so happy its done! Under the hood... Thanks in advance

answered: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=133344&highlight=transmission+ea82

Hello all, i haven't been to the junk yard yet to look around.. Thought i would ask while im at work before going. I have a GL wagon (1987) with the stick shift 4wd 5 spd tranny. Can i use any tranny that fits an EA82? Like from a newer push button Loyale? or does it have to be stick shift. I'm hoping to get to picknpull sometime this week to find out myself. Any help is appreciated!

Sweet thanks! finished tearing the dash apart today. i'll take a look tomorrow

So im pretty sure i know the answer to this.. but wanted some opinion.. I have an automatic 2.2 im swapping into my loyale. I'm leaving the manual EA transmission in the car and using an adapter plate. Was planning on using the same wiring harness and ECU(for the auto). Now im wondering.. am i gonna need a new ECU(and/or harness)? I know with the honda civic computers you can modify the board so its manual if it was originally automatic. i figured the automatic harness would just have extras. Thoughts anyone?

Awesome thanks guys answers my questions! I think I'll just run stock EA clutch and pressure plate to save on cash for now. How about the pilot bearing? is the stock one fine too?

I've done some searching and haven't found exactly what i was looking for.. I'm getting ready to do my EJ swap and was wondering about the clutch and pressure plate. I've read mixed reviews.. should i be getting a WRX or XT6 clutch and a XT6 pressure plate? Will the EA82 pressure plate work? I'm on a budget.. so i would prefer to not buy new from the dealer; if its just an opinion thing. Does anyone notice any difference when driving? I mean obviously its a bigger engine in a lighter car.. just wondering what the setup is and how it feels. Thanks!

I reworked the PCV and checked cam timing, everything looks good. I am starting to wonder about some leaking valves? i put silicon on caps and so far they havne't blown off. I'm looking into doing the EJ swap now.. so i'm just gonna drive as is for now

Awesome thanks for the info! gonna try some things this weekend let you know what I figure out

Everything seems fine, i did a 300 mile road trip to the beach. Thanks for the help everyone. Although, I did find out how to adjust backlash finally. Thanks to GeneralDisorder "set the backlash correctly with a dial indicator through the drain plug hole. You remove both the o-rings on the adjuster cups and then set the gear tooth backlash to .003" - .005" IIRC. Mark those locations and then install your o-rings and seals." Thanks man!

GeneralDisorder, man wish i had known that.. I had a thread here and few posts else where and never got an answer.. So far so good but perhaps i'll need to set backlash correctly.. I don't believe the whole tranmission needs to be opened for axle seals if you count the turns and mark it correctly. I however didn't do that..

I ended up getting this figured out. I had the tranny out because i was doing head gaskets, water pump, belts etc. I marked the side i didn't take off yet. Took it off, replaced seal, put it back on same amount of turns i counted. For the side i took off with out counting i tightened it down til it was good and snug and then backed it off a little. Not the best method i'm sure but wasn't sure what else to do. So far it seems fine, took a 300 mile road trip to the beach and didn't have any problems. I think it could be done in the car, at least on my 87 gl wagon. Next time this happens i know to count them.. lol

Here's some pictures, easier to explain PCV valve hole is plugged with a bolt. vacuum capped here, doesn't pop off though. So far just seems to be these 3 vacuum caps(2 black 1 yellow) that come off. I have the two valve cover PCV ports running to the breather filter. EGR is capped and vacuum advance for distrib isn't hooked up. It seemed to run better with out vacuum advance. I tuned ignition timing after removing the vacuum advance. I haven't checked cam timing yet, I'll probably get a chance by this weekend. I gotta go to the parts store any how can pick up another breather filter. carb hasn't been rebuilt for awhile. :-\

cool thanks, ill check wires and cam timing. I think wire's are good though after replacing the distributor(no more intake backfires, well no backfires at all actually) Sorry i didn't explain better, i actually have a breather filter on the pcv port's coming from where the valve covers are. It is only one filter though, i have the two ports connecting into a t connector with a filter(maybe this is causing more pressure then it should?) cam timing was something i wasn't 100% sure i got right when doing timing belts, water pump, head gaskets(i thought maybe i was a tooth off; but it runs so good... lol). I'll double check it and see what i come up with. thanks for the info, ill let you guys know how it goes

So i have this weird problem, i have a 87 gl wagon ea82 with weber carb. I took off the stock Hitachi and all the emissions stuff: pcv, egr, etc and capped them off. I was getting an intake backfire but ended up fixing this(replaced distributer and fixed ignition timing) After that though, the little rubber caps i have on the extra vacuum spots keep blowing off randomly. No back fires or anything. I'm wondering what’s causing the built up pressure? a couple buddies were thinking cam timing. but everything seems to run great. Any ideas?

So i finally got this all figured out I cleaned the carb and the secondary's were definetly clogged. After putting everything back together it still seemed though it didn't have the power it should. Driving it i noticed that there was a whole lot of noise coming from the front.. but not the back.. felt the exhaust and it was super hot when it was reved up. So pulled off the muffler and found that someone tried to remove the cat at one point and crammed all that junk down the pipe and clogged it up. Pulled all the crap out of there and runs like a charm

Finally got this going. Got a thermo temp sensor that fit into the radiator that kicked on around 160 degrees and wired up a relay. Good to go now

cool thanks Thats what my buddy was thinking too. gonna pick up some carb clean on the way home probably and tear into it this weekend. I'll check timing and see where its at too. Hopefully that takes care of it! I'll let you know how it goes. thanks again

So i finally took my subie for a drive after getting everything back to gether and the weber on it :banana: It runs great, idles and rev's up really good. Everything sounds super smooth. Although, when i get it on the road and start laying into it i hit like 4000 on the tact and 35 mph's and it starts bogging out. Like its still running ok but it chokes out. If you let off it it doesn't die or anything. Anyone got any ideas? I've already replaced cap, rotor, spark plugs & wires. The Weber sat for awhile; I haven't cleaned it yet but it runs really good. It seems fine low rpm's like around my drive way.. i was thinking maybe coil? Anyone got any ideas? Thanks in advance!

Welcome! i picked me up a 87 gl wagon and a 88 gl wagon. Don't want to let either of them go now

Awesome thats what i was hoping; i'll tear into it here in a little bit when i get home from work. Thanks